JBJ Chiller Help

[t316]

This is my first time setting up a chiller, so bare with me on the stupid questions. I have a JBJ 1/3 hp and will be setting up in a basement room one floor below the tank. Was debating on whether to tie into the main Blueline pump, or get a seperate pump just for the chiller.
First, can I assume that water will have to be pumping thru the chiller 24/7? How else will the chiller know when it needs to cool because there is no sensor wire that came with it? If this is the case, I'm thinking a seperate pump for sure so that I can take this thing off line during the winter.
Second, should I get a dry pump that can sit down in the basement with the chiller, or a pump that I can drop into the sump? Any advantage to one over the other?
Lastly, am I correct as I understand it that I should set it up so that I am pumping INTO the chiller, not drawing OUT OF the chiller?

 

[scsinet]

The Artica chillers have a built in t-stat, so yes, water has to pump through them all the time.
Most folks set up the chiller on a main return line, though this is not a requirement. A separate loop out of the sump will also be fine. One thing to consider is that with the return line pumping up one floor, there is considerably more head pressure in it and therefore there is considerably more pressure in the heat exchanger. This probably won't cause a problem, but it's food for thought.
No matter which route you choose, you need to be certain that you will meet the minimum flow requirements of the chiller, lest you freeze up which will destroy the chiller.
You never want a pump to have to work to pull water; only push it. So yes, you want to go sump > pump > chiller > tank or sump
If you go with a separate loop, you may consider investing in a flow switch. They will shut the chiller down if there is insufficient flow through the pipe which will help prevent freezing. It's not so much a problem with chillers that have internal controllers as the thermostat tends to shut it off well before it freezes, but if you use a dedicated chiller loop, the pump could fail without you noticing it. If the chiller is in the main return line you are bound to notice if the main pump goes out, but it could go unnoticed on a dedicated loop, especially with a remote sump that you may not visit every day. The flow switch is pricey, but much cheaper than a new chiller (and voided warranty). Aquatic Eco Systems sells them.

 

[t316]

Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2546491
The Artica chillers have a built in t-stat, so yes, water has to pump through them all the time.
Most folks set up the chiller on a main return line, though this is not a requirement. A separate loop out of the sump will also be fine. One thing to consider is that with the return line pumping up one floor, there is considerably more head pressure in it and therefore there is considerably more pressure in the heat exchanger. This probably won't cause a problem, but it's food for thought.
No matter which route you choose, you need to be certain that you will meet the minimum flow requirements of the chiller, lest you freeze up which will destroy the chiller.
You never want a pump to have to work to pull water; only push it. So yes, you want to go sump > pump > chiller > tank or sump
If you go with a separate loop, you may consider investing in a flow switch. They will shut the chiller down if there is insufficient flow through the pipe which will help prevent freezing. It's not so much a problem with chillers that have internal controllers as the thermostat tends to shut it off well before it freezes, but if you use a dedicated chiller loop, the pump could fail without you noticing it. If the chiller is in the main return line you are bound to notice if the main pump goes out, but it could go unnoticed on a dedicated loop, especially with a remote sump that you may not visit every day. The flow switch is pricey, but much cheaper than a new chiller (and voided warranty). Aquatic Eco Systems sells them.
Thanks SCSI
My only concern about using my main pump and return line is that everything is running so smoothly with that system now, and since I'll be diverting all the way down to another level, and back up, I don't want to risk overworking that pump. I'll just get an oversized pump (staying under the maximum gph) and keep everything in a seperate loop. With salt water running thru these chiller components, do they ever corode or need flushing out with fresh water?