LED par 38 lights

J

jstdv8

Guest
What does par 38 mean?
what's the difference between the par 38 lights sold at that orange hardware store vs something like what evil66 makes?
I was thinking of buying one to supliment lighting for my corals in my 10g QT. all of the corals are in a little area so if the light was directed into one area that would be just fine.
Are these bulbs any good for anything we do?
right now I have a curly compact flourecent over the tank 27watt with a standard shop light reflector and it seams to be working just fine. corals are opened and pretty, thought this might be a good opertunity to take a peek at a cheap LED.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
PAR = Parabolic Aluminized Reflector.
PAR more or less referes to what type of light it is, generally a PAR light is an outdoor style light bulb (flood light) with a built in reflector or alumization (if that's a word) on the inside of it, where as R is an indoor rated bulb with no reflectivity built into it.
38 is simply a number that is givin to the size or diameter of the bulb in which you are refering too.
In this hobby you hear most people refering to the fact that PAR is more important than actual watts. Particularly light fixtures with specialized reflectors will give you much better PAR than a standard fixture with cheap reflectors. Therefor it's not necissarily just the bulb and the wattage you are after, but how much par you can actually achieve out of your set up that most often times is the key.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
So I guess to answere your question even though I'm not farmiliar with evil66...but I'm going to assume that maybe they are built in such a way that they produce more reflectivity or PAR? I'm not sure, I'll have to look into those.
 

wangotango

Active Member
There are LED and non-LED PAR38 lamps that you can buy at the hardware store. The biggest differences between those and the ones made for the hobby (from nanocustoms; evil66) are that they use high-powered LEDs with spectrums more suitable for aquariums, they use optics, and have a heatsink.
They both twist into the same style of socket.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
SO if I don't know what spectrum these ones at HD are then it probably won't grow corals?
So just blasting a coral with loads of light doesnt neccesarily mean its going to get what it needs from that light.
Is spectrum and Kelvin kinda the same thing or is that totally different? These ones are in the 5500k range, so they probably grow algae real good but corals not so much?
I was kind of getting out of another thread that the reason we use 14k and 20k over 10k is that they are too yellow. well for a QT I'm not at all concerned witht he look. I just want it to stay alive and grow a little while its in QT. So will any Kelvin do that or is there some srt of cut off for what is effective?
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
and as far as optics the purpose of those is to spread light not direct it right? LED is naturaly one directional so optics spread that out? or is it the opposite of what I'm thinking?
becuase if the LED's came directed in one position that would be fine since my corals in QT only cover about 6" x6" area in my tank, if that. so all fo the light would be pointed where it needs to go. again, not concerned with looks, just power.
 

scsinet

Active Member
It is worth mentioning here that PAR is an acronym with two different meanings.
When you see PAR regular lighting products - reflector type lamps in particular, it means as someone already mentioned here that is a reflector type lamp, or the equivalent thereof. The number (E.G. PAR38) refers to the size and style of the reflector.
PAR also means photosynthetically active/available radiation. It's a measure of a given lighting systems expected photosynthesis support performance. It's a term thrown around in the aquarium world as a way to measure lighting system performance, which is why it's worth mentioning.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
well, I decided to just go get another curly CFL 27 watt light and a reflector.
The first light by itself was doing ok for everything but the duncans they were starting to not open as big.
I added the second light two days ago and now everything seems very happy.
Still interested in that screw in LED though, but HD wants 67 bucks for 1
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by Jstdv8
http:///forum/post/3291417
well, I decided to just go get another curly CFL 27 watt light and a reflector.
The first light by itself was doing ok for everything but the duncans they were starting to not open as big.
I added the second light two days ago and now everything seems very happy.
Still interested in that screw in LED though, but HD wants 67 bucks for 1
Jstdv8, if you google you'll find a thread out there that a little experimenting was/is being done with the lighting your talking about....I just skimmed it though!!!!!
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
I looked up the lights I was thinking of on H D .com and it has specifications says its a 20w light which is fairly powerful, but the temp is 3000k, so that's not going to work. I'll stick with the two curly bulbs for now, they seem to be working great and at 54 watts they don't consume alot of power.
 

geoj

Active Member
Kelvin = Color temperature is a characteristic of visible light. The color temperature of a light source is the temperature of an ideal black-body radiator that radiates light of comparable hue to that light source. The temperature is conventionally stated in units of absolute temperature, kelvin (K).Higher color temperatures (5,000 K or more) are called cool colors (blueish white); lower color temperatures (2,700–3,000 K) are called warm colors (yellowish white through red).
Photosynthetically active radiation
, often abbreviated PAR, designates the spectral range (wave band) of solar radiation from 400 to 700 nanometers that photosynthetic organisms are able to use in the process of photosynthesis. This spectral region corresponds more or less with the range of light visible to the human eye.
OK so kelvien and PAR are measurements of visible light…
The visible spectrum
is the portion of the electromagnetic spectrum that is visible to (can be detected by) the human eye. Electromagnetic radiation in this range of wavelengths is called visible light or simply light. A typical human eye will respond to wavelengths from about 390 to 750 nanometers
Nanometers
280 nm — near ultraviolet wavelength
380–420 nm — wavelength of violet light
420–440 nm — wavelength of indigo light
440–500 nm — wavelength of blue light
500–520 nm — wavelength of cyan light
520–565 nm — wavelength of green light
565–590 nm — wavelength of yellow light
590–625 nm — wavelength of orange light
625–740 nm — wavelength of red light
700–1400 nm — Wavelength of near-infrared radiation
Phosphors
are transition metal compounds or rare earth compounds of various types. The most common uses of phosphors are in CRT displays and fluorescent lights. Phosphor layers provide most of the light produced by fluorescent lamps, and are also used to improve the balance of light produced by metal halide lamps. Various neon signs use phosphor layers to produce different colors of light.
What does this all mean… Well the lights we buy that have labels telling us the Color temperature in Kelvin are selling to people that want to know the color of visible light the bulb produces and nothing more. Because we know that a Phosphor layer can be added to a bulb to change the Color temperature the (light we see) we can't know if a light bulb produces the right wavelengths of light with high enough intensity to make are corals grow fat and happy.
So you go and find out the PAR spectrum of your light bulb how do you know if the coral you keep will do well under this bulb any way? Well I really don’t know, but nether do most of the people that wright reef books. Most just assume that the light that can be measured at the depth the animal is found in the ocean is the light the animal needs. Well that’s good enough for me.
By knowing how deep the coral is found and the spectrum of light in Nanometers found at that depth we can determine if a given light bulb will be good to use. By knowing the PAR spectrum of a light bulb you will know the intensity of each color in the spectrum of the bulb.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
so I'd need a lux meter or soemthing to really know what the heck these lights are doing.
Otherwise I just use what I have and watch for signs of the unhappy coral while they are in QT.
Currently I have sunset monti, a duncan, a frogspawn and a geniopora (sp?)
and all look good. I'm a little concerned witht he lack of actinic or blue light that the Zooxanthellae needs to do it's magic.
hopefully everything will go well for the 3 weeks I have left.
 

geoj

Active Member
lux meter is a measurements of light intensity it will let you know if the light at a spot in the tank is high moderate or low.
"actinic or blue light that the Zooxanthellae needs" this is an opinion not fully formed people have been keeping corals for a long time using 6500k bulbs the conscience is they grow fast under 6500-10000k light and slower under 20000k light but look better but this is all guess work.
What I do is try and get the PAR of the bulbs I buy, and just learn over time what works and looks good.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
ok, I hear ya, it's a QT tank in this instance so I could really care less what it looks like, I jsut want to keep them alive and happy for at least 4 weeks until they can get to thier new home.
Funny thing is, everyone talks about par and all this but when you buy a coral, there is nowhere in the care section that says, "shoot for X amount of par" it jsut says high low or moderate light. I guess there are alot of right ways to do the same thing.
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
well, the 2 x 27w curly CFL's were pretty much fail.
Seemed to be going good for about 2 weeks and then in the last 2 days the sunset looked solid orange with no polyps showing and a little whitish on the edges and the duncans were not opening very far.
I'm assuming this is a lighting issue.
so, I couldn't get them the whole 4 weeks in Qy that i wanted but i did get 16 days out of it. I scrubbed the heck out of any hard areas in case they might have parasites attached to them. I don't know if that could help or not, but I figured anything I can do would be better than nothing.
Added them to the DT last night. after the lights came on this morning all 4 corals were looking better than when I bought them at the store. The duncans are HUUUGE. and the sunset monti has all it's polyps back. still a bit white at the edges though.
I'm going to have to get a real reefing light for my QT for the next purchase.
 
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