For anyone wanting to get a BTA or LTA......
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What I am about to write is not intended to step on anyones toes or downplay anyones experience in the hobby, so please do not take offense.
The number one thing that really upsets me about advice given in reference to lighting for someone about to go buy a BTA or LTA is that almost everyone tells you that you have to have Metal Halide lighting in order to keep them.
This is completely false.
I have kept a BTA in my 20 Gallon (24" x 12" x 16.5") for 6 months under 130 Watt PC lights and it has thrived.
What needs to be considered when choosing lights is how far below the water surface the anenome will likely be and can it get close enough to the light source to get what it needs.
Before upgrading, I only used 130 Watts of PC lighting in my 55 Gallon(I now have 260 Watts PC lighting) and my BTA in that tank was also doing fantastic because my live rock was stacked high enough that it could get within 6" of the lighting.
My point is that you don't need to go broke buying Metal Halide lighting unless you plan to keep corals with high lighting requirements or clams or other anenomes(such as Sebae or Carpets).
I have even read where someone wrote someone else stating that in order to get a Tube Anenome that they had to have Metal Halide lighting. Tube anenomes are not even photosynthetic, therefore do not require any special type of lighting. They can be kept with standard flourescents!
I know that the intention is to give these fish and inverts the very best home, but I really do believe that we over do it with the lighting.
Once again, I am not trying to make anyone angry or discredit anyone. I just think we need to take into consideration the depth of the tank & how high the rock work is stacked before we tell someone they have to have Metal Halide lighting to keep a BTAor LTA.
This is just my experience........................
Just something else to add.................this is from Joyce Wilkerson, PE - Clownfishes and Anemones.
It is an old article I found when researching BTAs.
Lighting:
The lighting issue is not so clear-cut as I would hope. I think two things muddy the issue. First, lighting preferences may not be the same for all the host anemones. Secondly, the parameter of watts per gallon is not an adequate measurement. More can be read of this in Dana Riddle's book "The Captive Reef". I will offer the raw data by genera and invite comment:
ANEMONES KEPT MORE THAN 2 YEARS &/OR REPRODUCING: Heteractis
Tank size Metal Halide Fluorescent Actinic
160-gal 2-175w MH None 2-110w
75-gallon 1-175w MH 1-30w 50/50 1-30w
60-gallon None 2-110w 50/50 2-110w
55-gallon None 2-40w daylight 2-60w
Stiochodactyla
Tanks size Metal Halide Fluorescent Actinic
120-gal None 3-110w act wt 1-110w
100-gal 2-175w MH None 2-40w
90-gallon 2-175w 5500K None None
70-gallon None 3-40w daylight 3-40w
55-gallon 2-80w MERCURY VAPOR
Entacmaea
Tank size Reproducing Metal Halide Fluorescent Actinic
120-gal No None 3-110 act wt 1-110
110-gal YES None None 4-40w
60-gal No None 1-110 50/50 None
20-gal YES None 3-15w 50/50 None
Note that a BTA(Entacmaea) was kept in a 60 Gallon for 2+ years with only 110 watts of PC lighting.
I also noticed that Thomas posted this same article some time ago.
I posted this a couple of days ago in this forum.
I hope it is helpful.
Never take anyones advice without researching first.
By researching I mean going out and buying or checking out books and reading until your eyes cross.