Lowes or HD Marine 2 part Epoxy

acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Anyone use I think it's made by Loctite or someone else the 2 part marine epoxy to bond some rock......Curious as to what others have tried.....Some rock just seems way to brittle to actually drill......I know some have tried the putty, but I've heard mixed results with that.....My rock is completely dry as well.......
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
I picked some of this up today actually. Although I wasnt planning on using it for the rock I suppose that I could test it out on a couple of pieces. Im sure that its safe once its cured. I dont see why a little bit of silicone wouldn't work on dry rock. Or pond foam.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Just glanced the epoxy Corey and was going to pick it up, but then read down further on the package and it said not for potable water......That might just be there to cover their butts.
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
I picked up the loc-tite marine stuff. Nothing on this package about potable water. spa flex pvc is not for potable water either but it's been used safely for a few years now in our systems. There are certain restrictions when it comes to running water supply lines in residential and commercial applications and it all has to do with taste more so than safety. Certain solvents are specifically made for pvc and cpvc that are tasteless once cured. Those are what need to be used. Everything else is marked non potable. Epoxy is pretty inert once it's cured from my understanding.
 
gemmy

gemmy

Active Member
This stuff? I used it on some failed project and didn't like it.

Recommended For
Ideal for PVC, copper, brass and galvanized pipes
Bonding metal, concrete, glass, fiberglass, ceramic, wood and certain rigid plastics
Surfaces exposed to water immersion
Not Recommended For
Applications above 150°F (65°C)
Aquariums or potable water systems
Polyethylene, polypropylene, Nylon™, Teflon™ or flexible materials
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Typically epoxy is inert, but was just curious because I had read the label and their disclaimer against aquarium use, but just as super glue says not to immerse in water and it's fine......
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Ahh...good eyes, guys. I was going to use it to glue some pvc but it's not for a pressure application. Did you use it on rock work, Krista?
I wonder what they really mean when they mention aquariums. Are they referring to building one?
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I'm not saying that it isn't safe.....Just the little disclaimer made me want to rethink about using it......There's tons of stuff that say not aquarium safe that they use just to cover their butts......
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I think I'm going to try to find Aquamend tomorrow.....I read people have used that, and they say you can get that at Lowes and HomeDepot.......
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by acrylic51 http:///t/393283/lowes-or-hd-marine-2-part-epoxy#post_3497936
I'm not saying that it isn't safe.....Just the little disclaimer made me want to rethink about using it......There's tons of stuff that say not aquarium safe that they use just to cover their butts......
I know it, bro. Honestly, was just curious what they really do mean by it. They're so vague, and aquariums can mean so many things. Is it toxic, or should you not use it to construct one or both? I know they've changed labels on silicones that were once widely used in the hobby but they supposedly didn't change the product.
I'll probably just use a little bit of the pond foam. It gives you an adhesive bond as well as a mechanical one. And if you use it only in the few key places where you actually need it then you might actually be able to take the rock apart again one day.
Gettin ready to start the wall...sneak peak.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
I was looking at it more for when I drill the LR and rough the acrylic rod, something to give a firm footing for the acrylic rod.....Funny thing is I bought super glue and said not for submersion and have been soaking a piece I glued for about a week now and seems fine......A lot can be done with rock work as far as fitting, shaving and grinding, but some pieces require a tad more security.....I'll have to shoot you a pic of something I'm working with.....
 
2quills

2quills

Well-Known Member
I was looking at it more for when I drill the LR and rough the acrylic rod, something to give a firm footing for the acrylic rod.....Funny thing is I bought super glue and said not for submersion and have been soaking a piece I glued for about a week now and seems fine......A lot can be done with rock work as far as fitting, shaving and grinding, but some pieces require a tad more security.....I'll have to shoot you a pic of something I'm working with.....
Please do. Im probably going with a more minimalistic approach for my rocks this time around. The wife and I talked so I think we are going to do one more year on our lease when it comes time to renew in febuary. The 50g is a disaster at this point so I want to get the 120g going or else im probably going to drop the hobby all together.
 
phixer

phixer

Active Member
I just used this stuff called Water Weld by JB Weld I picked up at the "Home Dumpster" or B lowes, which is an epoxy putty you knead together. I used it to fix a crack in a RODI filter and a plastic sprinkler then got carried away and started glueing everything with it. So far so good.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Meowzer what material is your sump made from? Again wouldn't use it for pressure applications? False security!!!
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
If it's truly acrylic....False sense of security.....we all know nothing bonds correctly with acrylic other than solvent......
 
phixer

phixer

Active Member
It depends on the manner in which the crack is repaired IMHO. For pressure applications epoxy is best applied to the inside of the crack so it works as a plug with the pressure forcing the epoxy into the crack. Basically a type of shoring so to speak. If applied to the outside of the crack as a patch there is a greater likelihood for the material to delaminate from the parent surface over time. But for a sprinkler, it may take awhile.
Epoxy is also susceptible to becoming brittle under direct and intense UV light (such as in a reef tank). Learned this when building plywood tanks and realized the value in fiberglass matting and polyurea as the waterproofing topcoat.
I used an internal plug of JB Weld waterproof epoxy putty for the RODI very similar to how a tire is plugged.
40/42 also does a good job for acrylic, I really like the 2 part stuff.
 
acrylic51

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phixer http:///t/393283/lowes-or-hd-marine-2-part-epoxy#post_3525053
It depends on the manner in which the crack is repaired IMHO. For pressure applications epoxy is best applied to the inside of the crack so it works as a plug with the pressure forcing the epoxy into the crack. Basically a type of shoring so to speak. If applied to the outside of the crack as a patch there is a greater likelihood for the material to delaminate from the parent surface over time. But for a sprinkler, it may take awhile.
Epoxy is also susceptible to becoming brittle under direct and intense UV light (such as in a reef tank). Learned this when building plywood tanks and realized the value in fiberglass matting and polyurea as the waterproofing topcoat.
I used an internal plug of JB Weld waterproof epoxy putty for the RODI very similar to how a tire is plugged.
40/42 also does a good job for acrylic, I really like the 2 part stuff.
Regardless how it is applied it doesn't attack and dissolve and "melt" the acrylic.....So no it's not the correct means to fix the crack. And yes the epoxy mentioned does get brittle and I did quite a bit of trial and error while bonding my rockwork with the epoxy and acrylic rod......
 
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