majestic angelfish?
- Thread starter drea
- Start date
scubadoo
Active Member
Some info on this angel from Bob Fenner...a cut and paste.....
Selection:
The most important aspect of keeping one of these angels is picking out a specimen that has more than a fair chance of living for you. The following criteria are best to have all going for yours.
1) Size matters; there is an ideal initial window of big/small, 5-3 thereabouts inches in first acquiring/placing one of the Euxiphipops. Tiny specimens are often too stressed, starved to make recovery. Larger individuals tend to adapt to captivity poorly; some become incurable bullies, killing tankmates before mysteriously perishing themselves.
2) The source counts too; avoid ones from their principal sources, the Philippines and Indonesia. Both countries rank as poster children for "not ready for prime time players", still condoning cyanide and other non-sustainable collection of marine livestock, including these fishes. Pay the slightly higher price for a real (viable) specimen from elsewhere; the short-lived ones from Indo and P.I. aren't worth the risk or endorsement of such nefarious practices.
3) Eating; is it? This is a major pitfall with these pomacanthids, especially smaller specimens. Have the animal demonstrably fed in your presence, on foods you can and intend to supply, then leave it. Come back a few days later for a repeat performance. A cyanided specimen may not take food, or maybe try just one last time. Overly cautious? Perhaps, but for an expensive purchase well warranted.
4) Marks, especially reddish raised areas and spots are a danger sign of impending or current infection. Don't even think about buying these specimens.
Selection:
The most important aspect of keeping one of these angels is picking out a specimen that has more than a fair chance of living for you. The following criteria are best to have all going for yours.
1) Size matters; there is an ideal initial window of big/small, 5-3 thereabouts inches in first acquiring/placing one of the Euxiphipops. Tiny specimens are often too stressed, starved to make recovery. Larger individuals tend to adapt to captivity poorly; some become incurable bullies, killing tankmates before mysteriously perishing themselves.
2) The source counts too; avoid ones from their principal sources, the Philippines and Indonesia. Both countries rank as poster children for "not ready for prime time players", still condoning cyanide and other non-sustainable collection of marine livestock, including these fishes. Pay the slightly higher price for a real (viable) specimen from elsewhere; the short-lived ones from Indo and P.I. aren't worth the risk or endorsement of such nefarious practices.
3) Eating; is it? This is a major pitfall with these pomacanthids, especially smaller specimens. Have the animal demonstrably fed in your presence, on foods you can and intend to supply, then leave it. Come back a few days later for a repeat performance. A cyanided specimen may not take food, or maybe try just one last time. Overly cautious? Perhaps, but for an expensive purchase well warranted.
4) Marks, especially reddish raised areas and spots are a danger sign of impending or current infection. Don't even think about buying these specimens.
scubadoo
Active Member
More on feeding....
Feeding/Foods/Nutrition: Types, Frequency, Amount, Wastes
Stomach contents analysis of wild specimens shows these fishes to be quite omnivorous, browsing widely on benthic invertebrates (worms, mollusks, fish eggs, sponges...), algae, and more. Getting them to start and accept food in captivity often proves difficult.
My advice is to continue with whatever foodstuffs your supplier was utilizing, expanding offerings to include as much variety of fresh, prepared frozen and dried matter as you can. Soaking food with supplements including vitamins and appetite stimulants is encouraged. Other writers list shrimp species, squid, open shellfish, spinach, prepared sponge-containing products, live rock, and more as suitable foods.
Feeding/Foods/Nutrition: Types, Frequency, Amount, Wastes
Stomach contents analysis of wild specimens shows these fishes to be quite omnivorous, browsing widely on benthic invertebrates (worms, mollusks, fish eggs, sponges...), algae, and more. Getting them to start and accept food in captivity often proves difficult.
My advice is to continue with whatever foodstuffs your supplier was utilizing, expanding offerings to include as much variety of fresh, prepared frozen and dried matter as you can. Soaking food with supplements including vitamins and appetite stimulants is encouraged. Other writers list shrimp species, squid, open shellfish, spinach, prepared sponge-containing products, live rock, and more as suitable foods.
angelsrock
Member
this fish can be stressed out very easily and should be given 2 or more places to hide. the more the better. as far as diet goes, i would go to the lfs and get hikari mega marine angelfish food(it's frozen) it is a well rounded diet for them. you should also feed him nori every day as well. also keep your tank as prestine as possible as these guys can be really sensitive to water changes. good luck.
aquageek
Member
Why don't you try a Dwarf Angel? They come in a variety of colors. Most usually are around 4 inches. It is hit or miss about whether they bother your corals. Lemon peels and flames are the prettiest in my opinion. I also like the half black ones too. If you decided to try one make sure your tank is well established and stable with lots of live rock and algae.
scubadoo
Active Member
Originally Posted by Salsa
Can you expand on your comment regarding not having a good track record in captivity? Do you mean they don't lead a long life?
No, they often die because they refuse food. If you get one that adapts well they can live 20 plus years in the home aqiarium.
Collection techniques of the supplier and careful selection by the consumer can overcome this...but many will simply not eat. despite this.
Can you expand on your comment regarding not having a good track record in captivity? Do you mean they don't lead a long life?
No, they often die because they refuse food. If you get one that adapts well they can live 20 plus years in the home aqiarium.
Collection techniques of the supplier and careful selection by the consumer can overcome this...but many will simply not eat. despite this.
