Making progress on the 1700
- Thread starter novice150
- Start date
novice150
Member
I've posted quite a few times throughout the construction process of this tank, but not for a while in the DIY forum. The shark is a black tip, and he's about 22" long. The tank also houses a 12" bamboo, 15" horn, and a 15" leopard shark. Also a few other damsels, tang, and wrasse.
I'm looking forward to finishing the basement. By mid next week, it should be complete, minus the floor.
I'm looking forward to finishing the basement. By mid next week, it should be complete, minus the floor.
broncofish
Active Member
Hey check out his website, or melbourneFL web site it has some details and pics. You know what the best part of that tank is. There is something like 100lbs of live rock in there, and it just looks like scraps
richard rendos
Active Member
kick ass!
novice150
Member
jamesurq: Actually, damsels seem to be the only thing he's not interested in eating. My guess is they are just too small and fast to be worth the effort. Besides occasional tank mates, the shark (sharks) eat squid, silversides, large scallops, cod, flounder, shrimp, cuttle fish, and every now and then, lobster.
Justinx: The tank is made of wood (heavily re enforced 4x4 frame) and fiberglass. The walls are coated with 2 part epoxy, and the window is acrylic.
Juggernaut: The black tip always gets his way! Just last night, he nearly ate my wrasse. The wrasse was picking at a piece of food, and the black tip wanted it. The wrasse actually had the nerve to try and stand his ground over the food. He was treated to several laps around the tank, with a 22" black tip at his tail snapping his jaws.
Like broncofish said, feel free to check out my website, or melbourneFL's for more details. I'll also be happy to answer any other questions you may have.
Justinx: The tank is made of wood (heavily re enforced 4x4 frame) and fiberglass. The walls are coated with 2 part epoxy, and the window is acrylic.
Juggernaut: The black tip always gets his way!
Just last night, he nearly ate my wrasse. The wrasse was picking at a piece of food, and the black tip wanted it. The wrasse actually had the nerve to try and stand his ground over the food. He was treated to several laps around the tank, with a 22" black tip at his tail snapping his jaws.Like broncofish said, feel free to check out my website, or melbourneFL's for more details. I'll also be happy to answer any other questions you may have.
broncofish
Active Member
I have one question, can I move into your basement? I don't eat much and I probably would just sit there and stare, you could tell guests I was a statue.
broncofish
Active Member
Did you see his skimmer? man I dream about that tank, literally. I would make it into a reef(can you imagine that) but I dream baby.
broncofish
Active Member
I would need a 500 gallon refugium, and a 500 gallon sump, man I need to hit the lotto.
novice150
Member
You know, your right. My site doesn't really say or show squat about filtration or maintenance. I must fix!
First off, I cant even imagine what this tank would cost to set up/maintain/light/stock, as a reef!! Lets just say it will never happen. I have a 60 gal for that
Filtration on this 1700 consists of the following:
200 gal sump, running bio media, activated carbon, and lots of mechanical filtration.
6' skimmer, on its own pump. Its a venturi design, and I modified it with a mazzai (spelling) venturi injector. LOTS of tiny bubbles.
2- Large fluidized bed filters.
2- 3'tall 40w UV sterilizers.
A large canister filter.
Approx. 4" sand bed.
LS and LR
2- 5000gph pumps. One on a closed loop, and one open.
Kent marine RO/DI unit.
I do not use any form of heater/chiller on this tank. I rely on my house to take care of it. Since the tank is in the basement, and directly on a concrete floor, it stays cool in the summer with the help of AC. Winter time, same thing. A tank this size holds its temp really well. Since I started it up, it has been at a steady 74-75 degrees.
Topoff, around 10 gallons per day.
Water changes. Notta. I monitor my parameters faithfully. PH 8.3, AM 0, Trites 0, Trates 10ppm (and climbing). Obviously the trates will continue to climb over time. For that reason, I have already begun building a large coil denitrator. I know people have had mixed results with these, but after reading PR Escobals book, Aquatic Systems Engineering, I believe its worth a shot. I will use PH buffer as it begins to drop as well. If I have any problems, I will do water changes, but only if necessary.
Routine maintenance is cake. I clean my collection cup on the skimmer weekly. Top off every two days (I have a dedicated resevoir/pump/line to the sump for this) but plan to automate top off soon. I rotate my mechanical filtration pads weekly, dirty out/clean in. So far, algae has not been a problem. The tank get no natural light, and is lit 7 hours per day by 4-6 4' fluorescent bulbs. I've only cleaned the glass once, right before I got the black tip. I'll be doing it again soon, once I get the courage to get in with him. Honestly though, Im more concerned about the shark freaking out when I get in, and injuring himself.
First off, I cant even imagine what this tank would cost to set up/maintain/light/stock, as a reef!! Lets just say it will never happen.
I have a 60 gal for thatFiltration on this 1700 consists of the following:
200 gal sump, running bio media, activated carbon, and lots of mechanical filtration.
6' skimmer, on its own pump. Its a venturi design, and I modified it with a mazzai (spelling) venturi injector. LOTS of tiny bubbles.
2- Large fluidized bed filters.
2- 3'tall 40w UV sterilizers.
A large canister filter.
Approx. 4" sand bed.
LS and LR
2- 5000gph pumps. One on a closed loop, and one open.
Kent marine RO/DI unit.
I do not use any form of heater/chiller on this tank. I rely on my house to take care of it. Since the tank is in the basement, and directly on a concrete floor, it stays cool in the summer with the help of AC. Winter time, same thing. A tank this size holds its temp really well. Since I started it up, it has been at a steady 74-75 degrees.
Topoff, around 10 gallons per day.
Water changes. Notta. I monitor my parameters faithfully. PH 8.3, AM 0, Trites 0, Trates 10ppm (and climbing). Obviously the trates will continue to climb over time. For that reason, I have already begun building a large coil denitrator. I know people have had mixed results with these, but after reading PR Escobals book, Aquatic Systems Engineering, I believe its worth a shot. I will use PH buffer as it begins to drop as well. If I have any problems, I will do water changes, but only if necessary.
Routine maintenance is cake. I clean my collection cup on the skimmer weekly. Top off every two days (I have a dedicated resevoir/pump/line to the sump for this) but plan to automate top off soon. I rotate my mechanical filtration pads weekly, dirty out/clean in. So far, algae has not been a problem. The tank get no natural light, and is lit 7 hours per day by 4-6 4' fluorescent bulbs. I've only cleaned the glass once, right before I got the black tip. I'll be doing it again soon, once I get the courage to get in with him. Honestly though, Im more concerned about the shark freaking out when I get in, and injuring himself.
splash1914
Member
OUTSTANDING!!!
broncofish
Active Member
Man you have to get pictures of you in there with the shark, man I get freaked out by sea lions when I'm in the ocean, I can't imagine swimming with a blacktip. I take it you plan on feeding him first, and then getting in with him a little later?
justinx
Active Member
Just out of curiosity, what have you done to protect the rest of the house and the room its in from the evaporation and moisture. I am sure you have thought of that with a tank that size, but it can be a very serious problem in the long run as far as the structure of the house itself is concerned.
novice150
Member
JustinX: Your absolutely right. Im sure we have all heard the story about what happened to MR4000's tank.
For one, all of the wood/concrete in the basement has been sealed, including the ceiling. Also, all the walls around the tank room are built using green board, inside and out. Next, the ceiling is protected with a thick one piece sheet of plastic, to prevent the moisture/condensation from harming the wood. Also there is a window in the tank room, which allows fresh air in. Lastly, I have an industrial ventilation fan, which is activated by a humidistat. I haven't installed it yet cause I needed to finish the walls in the basement. But it will draw air out of the tank room, and exit outside. Also, I'll be installing air louvers, so that fresh air can be drawn from upstairs, into the tank room when its too cold to open a window. Basically I'm going to try to keep enough fresh air moving through the room to prevent condensation.
For one, all of the wood/concrete in the basement has been sealed, including the ceiling. Also, all the walls around the tank room are built using green board, inside and out. Next, the ceiling is protected with a thick one piece sheet of plastic, to prevent the moisture/condensation from harming the wood. Also there is a window in the tank room, which allows fresh air in. Lastly, I have an industrial ventilation fan, which is activated by a humidistat. I haven't installed it yet cause I needed to finish the walls in the basement. But it will draw air out of the tank room, and exit outside. Also, I'll be installing air louvers, so that fresh air can be drawn from upstairs, into the tank room when its too cold to open a window. Basically I'm going to try to keep enough fresh air moving through the room to prevent condensation.
