radioactive
Member
I was just wondering what marine velvet is ? Is this a form of ICK ?I have read where it looks like white powder and kills very quickly ... Can someone explain a little more about this disease ? Thanks
Marine Velvet ?
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Amyloodinium, aka oodinium or marine velvet, is a dinoflagellate orgainsim. It is a parasite to marine fish during only one stage of its life cycle---while it is a attached to the fish.
The life cycle of marine velvet begins with the release of free-swimming “dinaspores” from a mature cyst. These cysts can be hidden in the mucus of a host fish, or be laying on the bottom of the tank after having fallen off an infected fish. Once the cyst release the dinaspores in to the water column, the free-swimming parasites go in search of a food source---fish. They cannot live long without a host, and some strains may not survive 48 hours; others may survive up to a mo. After the parasite attaches itself to a fish, it sends out filaments into the soft tissues of the animal for feeding. Because the gills of fish are one of the softest tissue areas of the fish, velvet is typically seen infesting this area. Damage to gill tissue stimulates mucus production in the gills, reducing their efficiency. Because the parasite typically targets the gills, usually the hobbyist’s initial recognition of a problem will be rapid gilling. Other signs of the disease are listlessness, lack of activity, loss of appetite, fading colors, and scratching/rubbing on rocks or other surfaces. During the beginning dinospore stage, the fish become quickly covered with the parasites giving the fish the appearance of a whitish velvet coating on them that looks as if the fish has been dusted with powder. As the disease matures to the cystic stage, parasites can be seen on the fins and body surfaces as that of the same size and color as table salt---thus there can be some confusion with this disease and the less aggressive parasite we commonly refer to as “ich/ick”. After several days of feeding, the parasite forms a cyst covering, and develops into the final dynospores stage to be released to start the cycle all over again. Oodinium can complete its life cycle in 6-12 days.
The life cycle of marine velvet begins with the release of free-swimming “dinaspores” from a mature cyst. These cysts can be hidden in the mucus of a host fish, or be laying on the bottom of the tank after having fallen off an infected fish. Once the cyst release the dinaspores in to the water column, the free-swimming parasites go in search of a food source---fish. They cannot live long without a host, and some strains may not survive 48 hours; others may survive up to a mo. After the parasite attaches itself to a fish, it sends out filaments into the soft tissues of the animal for feeding. Because the gills of fish are one of the softest tissue areas of the fish, velvet is typically seen infesting this area. Damage to gill tissue stimulates mucus production in the gills, reducing their efficiency. Because the parasite typically targets the gills, usually the hobbyist’s initial recognition of a problem will be rapid gilling. Other signs of the disease are listlessness, lack of activity, loss of appetite, fading colors, and scratching/rubbing on rocks or other surfaces. During the beginning dinospore stage, the fish become quickly covered with the parasites giving the fish the appearance of a whitish velvet coating on them that looks as if the fish has been dusted with powder. As the disease matures to the cystic stage, parasites can be seen on the fins and body surfaces as that of the same size and color as table salt---thus there can be some confusion with this disease and the less aggressive parasite we commonly refer to as “ich/ick”. After several days of feeding, the parasite forms a cyst covering, and develops into the final dynospores stage to be released to start the cycle all over again. Oodinium can complete its life cycle in 6-12 days.
radioactive
Member
BETH
Thanks for the response . I believe my Blue Hippo had this as it died yesterday . It looked like it was sprayed with a paint gun in a way . a white powder all over its body and face ...
I can't see where anything else would have caused its death as my levels are 0 amm . 0 nitrites and 20 ppm nitrates .
I have a yellow tang and it seems to be doing fine . I will be QT all fish from now on .
I am setting up a 10g QT right now . Can I use a penguin 170 bio wheel filter and a maxi jet 600 powerhead ? also do i just let it cycle like i did with my 75g with some shrimp ? I do have a refractometer so plan on hyposalinaty .. Thanks for the help !!!
Thanks for the response . I believe my Blue Hippo had this as it died yesterday . It looked like it was sprayed with a paint gun in a way . a white powder all over its body and face ...
I can't see where anything else would have caused its death as my levels are 0 amm . 0 nitrites and 20 ppm nitrates .
I have a yellow tang and it seems to be doing fine . I will be QT all fish from now on .
I am setting up a 10g QT right now . Can I use a penguin 170 bio wheel filter and a maxi jet 600 powerhead ? also do i just let it cycle like i did with my 75g with some shrimp ? I do have a refractometer so plan on hyposalinaty .. Thanks for the help !!!
radioactive
Member
Terry B.
Can you help out in the questions I asked above . Beth must not be around .. Thanks
Can you help out in the questions I asked above . Beth must not be around .. Thanks
radioactive
Member
Terry
The fins were kind of ragged on the ends and the tang seemed to get sick overnight . I am going to QT the yellow tang before it gets sick also .
A question on the QT , should i let the QT 10g cycle as I did with my display tank ? or should I just fill it with my display tank water and let the bio wheel soak in the wet/dry of my display tank for a week and thats it ???
Thanks for the help ...
The fins were kind of ragged on the ends and the tang seemed to get sick overnight . I am going to QT the yellow tang before it gets sick also .
A question on the QT , should i let the QT 10g cycle as I did with my display tank ? or should I just fill it with my display tank water and let the bio wheel soak in the wet/dry of my display tank for a week and thats it ???
Thanks for the help ...
radioactive
Member
BETH
I have not added any fish lately . The tank has been up and running for about 3 months with good success on the water chemistry . I was kind of shocked when I noticed the Blue Hippo having blotches all over , as the night before the hippo looked great and colorful . So I would say it was a quick death ...
I am planning on QT the yellow tang even though he looks good .. I will start QT all fish from now on as I believe this was a lesson learned ..
also on the penguin 170 bio wheel filter for my QT , should I run the filter without the cartridge ? I have heard where some run without the cartridge and just use the bio wheel .. what are your thoughts ?? Thanks
I have not added any fish lately . The tank has been up and running for about 3 months with good success on the water chemistry . I was kind of shocked when I noticed the Blue Hippo having blotches all over , as the night before the hippo looked great and colorful . So I would say it was a quick death ...
I am planning on QT the yellow tang even though he looks good .. I will start QT all fish from now on as I believe this was a lesson learned ..
also on the penguin 170 bio wheel filter for my QT , should I run the filter without the cartridge ? I have heard where some run without the cartridge and just use the bio wheel .. what are your thoughts ?? Thanks
radioactive
Member
btw , how do fish get velvet ?? is this caused from ICK ? If hypo does not cure velvet than how do you know when a fish has it ?? just curious in case this ever happens in the future >> ?? Thanks