Mated pairs???
- Thread starter 1911_guy
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thegrog
Active Member
Originally Posted by 1911_Guy
What exactly is a "mated pair" of clownfish? How do you know if they are mated? Should one add them to an aquarium at once or one before the other? The anenome comes first right? Thanks
First of all, the clowns do NOT need an anemone. Nor does the anemone need clowns. Anemones require pristine water conditions and very intense lighting to survive. They are not for the beginner aquarist, but should be reserved for intermediate to advanced.
I don't mean to flame you, but far too many people think they need one and get it only to wind up with a dead anemone and a crashed tank.
If you have a pair of the same species of clown in the tank, eventually they will become a mated pair. Technically, they are not a "mated" pair until you see eggs. Virtually any pair that you put into a tank will pair up with time. When they get closer to sexual maturity, they will spend more and more time near one another in their given territory of the tank. Mine have chosen to ignore my anemones and instead host in my open brain coral!! Only at feeding time do I see them away from it.
Hope this helps.
What exactly is a "mated pair" of clownfish? How do you know if they are mated? Should one add them to an aquarium at once or one before the other? The anenome comes first right? Thanks
First of all, the clowns do NOT need an anemone. Nor does the anemone need clowns. Anemones require pristine water conditions and very intense lighting to survive. They are not for the beginner aquarist, but should be reserved for intermediate to advanced.
I don't mean to flame you, but far too many people think they need one and get it only to wind up with a dead anemone and a crashed tank.
If you have a pair of the same species of clown in the tank, eventually they will become a mated pair. Technically, they are not a "mated" pair until you see eggs. Virtually any pair that you put into a tank will pair up with time. When they get closer to sexual maturity, they will spend more and more time near one another in their given territory of the tank. Mine have chosen to ignore my anemones and instead host in my open brain coral!! Only at feeding time do I see them away from it.
Hope this helps.
1911_guy
Member
Originally Posted by TheGrog
Anemones require pristine water conditions and very intense lighting to survive. They are not for the beginner aquarist, but should be reserved for intermediate to advanced.
I don't mean to flame you, but far too many people think they need one and get it only to wind up with a dead anemone and a crashed tank. Hope this helps.
Thanks for your input and advice...BTW, no offense taken.
I would like one maroon clownfish, my wife wants a second clownfish as long as they are both healthy and will get along. My tank has been cycled with LR/LS for 10 months now.
I added my first fish almost 2 weeks ago (blacktail damsel and scooter blenny).
I finally got my plumbing fixed this weekend and am now running my skimmer (Euroreef CS2-6).
Wish I had MH lighting but couldn't and shouldn't be able to afford it now. I do however use a Coralife Aqualight.
I plan on adding a fuge to my sump within a few months and possibly a UV Sterilizer.
Besides testing, not sure how much more pristine I can keep the water...oh yeah, I plan on using RO water from now (purchased) until I can buy a RO/DI unit for myself.
I am doing this for the health of the aquarium, not just to add an anenome...and of course because I would like to add coral to my setup. Any more suggestions are welcome.
Anemones require pristine water conditions and very intense lighting to survive. They are not for the beginner aquarist, but should be reserved for intermediate to advanced.
I don't mean to flame you, but far too many people think they need one and get it only to wind up with a dead anemone and a crashed tank. Hope this helps.
Thanks for your input and advice...BTW, no offense taken.
I would like one maroon clownfish, my wife wants a second clownfish as long as they are both healthy and will get along. My tank has been cycled with LR/LS for 10 months now.
I added my first fish almost 2 weeks ago (blacktail damsel and scooter blenny).
I finally got my plumbing fixed this weekend and am now running my skimmer (Euroreef CS2-6).
Wish I had MH lighting but couldn't and shouldn't be able to afford it now. I do however use a Coralife Aqualight.
I plan on adding a fuge to my sump within a few months and possibly a UV Sterilizer.
Besides testing, not sure how much more pristine I can keep the water...oh yeah, I plan on using RO water from now (purchased) until I can buy a RO/DI unit for myself.
I am doing this for the health of the aquarium, not just to add an anenome...and of course because I would like to add coral to my setup. Any more suggestions are welcome.
thegrog
Active Member
With maroons, I would add one sooner rather than later. Do it before the one you have matures and gets larger. Adult female maroons are among the most agressive fish out there!!! They will KILL any other clown they find....other than her mate that is. They should get along with the fish you already have though.
If you get one now, get one that is slightly smaller then the other. If you get them from the same display tank at the store, try and make sure one of them is the largest in the tank (if it looks healthy) as it most likely will already be the dominant female. This may cut down on the initial agression. There will be some nipping and agression at first and the male will get some nipped fins, but this is normal. Don't panic as things will settle down with time and they will be like two little love birds!
Maroon clowns are notorious for hosting in corals other than anemones. With your lighting, you could get say green star polyps, hammer corals, bubble corals or colt corals. I have heard of maroons hosting in all of these. Then you would not need to upgrade to the pricy lighting, and still have a clown hosting in something!
Personally, I would pass on the UV and invest in an RO system. IMO, UV is great for QT/hospital tanks, but not effective long term in a healthy reef tank.
The fuge would be a great addition. With the high quality skimmer you have running (Euroreef), the system will thrive!!!
hope this helps!!
If you get one now, get one that is slightly smaller then the other. If you get them from the same display tank at the store, try and make sure one of them is the largest in the tank (if it looks healthy) as it most likely will already be the dominant female. This may cut down on the initial agression. There will be some nipping and agression at first and the male will get some nipped fins, but this is normal. Don't panic as things will settle down with time and they will be like two little love birds!
Maroon clowns are notorious for hosting in corals other than anemones. With your lighting, you could get say green star polyps, hammer corals, bubble corals or colt corals. I have heard of maroons hosting in all of these. Then you would not need to upgrade to the pricy lighting, and still have a clown hosting in something!
Personally, I would pass on the UV and invest in an RO system. IMO, UV is great for QT/hospital tanks, but not effective long term in a healthy reef tank.
The fuge would be a great addition. With the high quality skimmer you have running (Euroreef), the system will thrive!!!
hope this helps!!
mr_bill
Active Member
Originally Posted by TheGrog
Adult female maroons are among the most agressive fish out there!!! They will KILL any other clown they find....other than her mate that is. They should get along with the fish you already have though.
Totally agree, towards other clowns an adult female GSM clown can be as deadly as a great white shark. They are strong, smart, and can do extenisive damage to just about anything added to your tank. Now before you get worried, I have a pair of GSM clowns with a clown goby(1.3"), royal gramma(3"), scooter blenny(2.5"), and a falco's hawk (3"). All of these fish were added after the two GSM clowns without problem.
That being said, the female has killed one fire shrimp who would not leave her eggs alone. If they feel like their little life is threatened they can be brutal.
Adult female maroons are among the most agressive fish out there!!! They will KILL any other clown they find....other than her mate that is. They should get along with the fish you already have though.
Totally agree, towards other clowns an adult female GSM clown can be as deadly as a great white shark. They are strong, smart, and can do extenisive damage to just about anything added to your tank. Now before you get worried, I have a pair of GSM clowns with a clown goby(1.3"), royal gramma(3"), scooter blenny(2.5"), and a falco's hawk (3"). All of these fish were added after the two GSM clowns without problem.
That being said, the female has killed one fire shrimp who would not leave her eggs alone. If they feel like their little life is threatened they can be brutal.
1911_guy
Member
You both have been very helpful. Let me clear up something first. The ONLY fish I have in my tank right now is:
1- blacktail damsel-- 1" (used to cycle/test water...may or may not keep it)
1- scooter blenny-- 3"
3-astaea snails
3-small hermit crabs- - 3/4"
Here is my wish list:
1- maroon clown (my wife wants 1 extra to have a pair) sorry for the confusion
1- six line wrasse
1- kole tang
4- blue green chromis
finally 1- majestic angelfish
PLUS: any coral that will thrive in MY aquarium setup
After a little research I think all of the above should do well with each other. One question I have is what order should I introduce these fish? One thing I did not know is what you both said about how aggresive a maroon clown can be.
OK, one more Q? Please give advice or link me. What size QT tank do most marine aquarists use and do they run them 24/7 or only when needed? Where do you keep it? Thanks again-Kevin
1- blacktail damsel-- 1" (used to cycle/test water...may or may not keep it)
1- scooter blenny-- 3"
3-astaea snails
3-small hermit crabs- - 3/4"
Here is my wish list:
1- maroon clown (my wife wants 1 extra to have a pair) sorry for the confusion
1- six line wrasse
1- kole tang
4- blue green chromis
finally 1- majestic angelfish
PLUS: any coral that will thrive in MY aquarium setup
After a little research I think all of the above should do well with each other. One question I have is what order should I introduce these fish? One thing I did not know is what you both said about how aggresive a maroon clown can be.
OK, one more Q? Please give advice or link me. What size QT tank do most marine aquarists use and do they run them 24/7 or only when needed? Where do you keep it? Thanks again-Kevin
thegrog
Active Member
Originally Posted by 1911_Guy
Here is my wish list:
1- maroon clown (my wife wants 1 extra to have a pair) sorry for the confusion
1- six line wrasse
1- kole tang
4- blue green chromis
finally 1- majestic angelfish
PLUS: any coral that will thrive in MY aquarium setup
After a little research I think all of the above should do well with each other. One question I have is what order should I introduce these fish? One thing I did not know is what you both said about how aggresive a maroon clown can be.
OK, one more Q? Please give advice or link me. What size QT tank do most marine aquarists use and do they run them 24/7 or only when needed? Where do you keep it? Thanks again-Kevin
One concern that I have in your selection is the majestic angel. They need larger tanks (90 gal plus) and they are not great for reef tanks as many corals are on their menu. Other than that, the fish selection looks alright. I would definately go with a pair of maroons as I feel that the agressive maroon clowns do better in a pair versus one lone female.
For QT tank, I use a 10 gal tank with a HOT filter and a sponge filter that I "seed" with bacteria in my sump for a week before setting it up. I always have the tank on standby, and can get it set up in about an hour in emergency, but don't have it running 24/7. For larger fish like angels and tangs, you would be better off with a 20 gal long as they like swimming room.
A simple setup is a bare bottom tank (paint the bottom and put paper/plastic on the back) with several peices of PVC piping in there for structure. Put in the sponge filter as previously mentioned. Keep a HOT filter on there that you can load with carbon. A powerhead doesn't hurt for water movement. Heater of course. Also, get one of those little ammonia detectors that you place on the glass that change colors when they detect ammonia. Not totally accurate, but a good heads up. Change the water every other day (10%) using water from your main tank. This way, you can medicate if necessary without contaminating rock/sand with medicine. With this you DO have to test water parameters daily (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) to see if anything is spiking. If you don't see any ammonia or nitrites, you can skip a water change for a day as your sponge filter and HOT filter is handling the waste. I've actually gone a week between changes using this as the sponge filter has a huge surface area for bacteria to remove wastes.
QT period is 4 weeks of disease/symptom free fish. If you treat for something, the clock does not start until the fish is totally disease free. I QT inverts and corals for only 2 weeks though as any disease will show itself earlier and tend to have shorter life cycles.
Hope this helps!!
Here is my wish list:
1- maroon clown (my wife wants 1 extra to have a pair) sorry for the confusion
1- six line wrasse
1- kole tang
4- blue green chromis
finally 1- majestic angelfish
PLUS: any coral that will thrive in MY aquarium setup
After a little research I think all of the above should do well with each other. One question I have is what order should I introduce these fish? One thing I did not know is what you both said about how aggresive a maroon clown can be.
OK, one more Q? Please give advice or link me. What size QT tank do most marine aquarists use and do they run them 24/7 or only when needed? Where do you keep it? Thanks again-Kevin
One concern that I have in your selection is the majestic angel. They need larger tanks (90 gal plus) and they are not great for reef tanks as many corals are on their menu. Other than that, the fish selection looks alright. I would definately go with a pair of maroons as I feel that the agressive maroon clowns do better in a pair versus one lone female.
For QT tank, I use a 10 gal tank with a HOT filter and a sponge filter that I "seed" with bacteria in my sump for a week before setting it up. I always have the tank on standby, and can get it set up in about an hour in emergency, but don't have it running 24/7. For larger fish like angels and tangs, you would be better off with a 20 gal long as they like swimming room.
A simple setup is a bare bottom tank (paint the bottom and put paper/plastic on the back) with several peices of PVC piping in there for structure. Put in the sponge filter as previously mentioned. Keep a HOT filter on there that you can load with carbon. A powerhead doesn't hurt for water movement. Heater of course. Also, get one of those little ammonia detectors that you place on the glass that change colors when they detect ammonia. Not totally accurate, but a good heads up. Change the water every other day (10%) using water from your main tank. This way, you can medicate if necessary without contaminating rock/sand with medicine. With this you DO have to test water parameters daily (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate) to see if anything is spiking. If you don't see any ammonia or nitrites, you can skip a water change for a day as your sponge filter and HOT filter is handling the waste. I've actually gone a week between changes using this as the sponge filter has a huge surface area for bacteria to remove wastes.
QT period is 4 weeks of disease/symptom free fish. If you treat for something, the clock does not start until the fish is totally disease free. I QT inverts and corals for only 2 weeks though as any disease will show itself earlier and tend to have shorter life cycles.
Hope this helps!!
1911_guy
Member
Ok, let's see if I understand your QT setup and method.
10 or 20 long paint underside of bottom with waterbased???paint (not sure if latex will stick to glass).
Make structure out of PVC pipe and place inside QT.
Do not add LR or LS to QT as it is not used.
Apply background paper to back and maybe sides of QT if desired
Heater, ammonia sensor and powerhead
Only use water from Main Tank sump to initially fill QT and for water changes thereafter.
Similar type lighting used in Main Tank????? (sounds expensive)
Hang on Top??? I'm assuming you are talking about a hang on back type filter like the Eheim Liberty 100 hang on filter?
I have no idea about the sponge filter, where does it go?
Setup QT tank a week or so prior to adding coral or fish to Main Tank.
Water changes every other day using sump water from Main Tank.
Test/monitor water quality (ammonia, nitrates, nitrites) every day (before or after water change?)
Leave coral in QT for at least 2 weeks/fish 4 weeks AFTER all is well.
If you have a pic handy of your QT that would be awesome.
Sorry this got off subject of clownfish, I'm still confused about determining the --- of the clownfish and how to choose one by size of what's in the store display tank. What about ordering online?
Regarding the Majestic Angel, I chose this because of beauty and it's adult size is smaller than most angelfish. Trying to get by with my 75G, ya know? Do you have any suggestions of another large sized multi-color eye stopping "Queen of the tank" type fish?
Of course you have been very helpful.
10 or 20 long paint underside of bottom with waterbased???paint (not sure if latex will stick to glass).
Make structure out of PVC pipe and place inside QT.
Do not add LR or LS to QT as it is not used.
Apply background paper to back and maybe sides of QT if desired
Heater, ammonia sensor and powerhead
Only use water from Main Tank sump to initially fill QT and for water changes thereafter.
Similar type lighting used in Main Tank????? (sounds expensive)
Hang on Top??? I'm assuming you are talking about a hang on back type filter like the Eheim Liberty 100 hang on filter?
I have no idea about the sponge filter, where does it go?
Setup QT tank a week or so prior to adding coral or fish to Main Tank.
Water changes every other day using sump water from Main Tank.
Test/monitor water quality (ammonia, nitrates, nitrites) every day (before or after water change?)
Leave coral in QT for at least 2 weeks/fish 4 weeks AFTER all is well.
If you have a pic handy of your QT that would be awesome.
Sorry this got off subject of clownfish, I'm still confused about determining the --- of the clownfish and how to choose one by size of what's in the store display tank. What about ordering online?
Regarding the Majestic Angel, I chose this because of beauty and it's adult size is smaller than most angelfish. Trying to get by with my 75G, ya know? Do you have any suggestions of another large sized multi-color eye stopping "Queen of the tank" type fish?
Of course you have been very helpful.
thegrog
Active Member
Yes, you almost got it.
You can use paper for the bottom as well, but not sure how well it would stick and water may get there when doing changes, ect and mess it up.
A few peices of random PVC would work. Don't really have any pics of my QT setup, but perhaps tonight I could assemble it and take one so you have an idea.
Yes HOT=Hang On Tank which is same as Hang On Back. I personally use Whisper filters, but a Liberty would work as well.
Lighting, for fish a standard tank top with a normal light bulb would work fine (like the kind that comes with many tanks). The normal flourescent bulb type would be better and could be used for corals for short term. If you want, a simple retrofit PC bulb could be used. You can get one that will fit into a standard plastic hood for like $35-40. Nothing fancy needed and the corals can live without the intense light for 2 weeks without problems (they do have rainy times in the tropics you know!)
The sponge filter attaches to an air line and goes into the tank itself. Only cost a few dollars. Basicall, the air flow causes water to be sucked through the sponge. the sponge provides a TON of surface area for the bacteria to reside and remove wastes. This is why you "seed" it with bacteria from your main tank (I use my sump) for like a week before settint up the QT. No real need to set up the tank itself that far ahead of time. 24 hours is plenty to make sure temp and water flow is working fine. A pic of a sponge filter is also below. The ones I use are black, just found this yellow pic handy. They also make them to attach to the intake side of a powerhead and the water flow from the powerhead is used instead of a air pump.
AS for the --- of the clownfish, if you get two juveniles, one will become female and the other male. They are born hermaphrodites (sp?) and can change from male to female...but not female to male. If you are still confused, two smaller clowns from any tank (including mail order) would work.
I'll have to think about the angel question. Hard to find one like that who won't eat corals unfortunately.
Well, off to work!!
You can use paper for the bottom as well, but not sure how well it would stick and water may get there when doing changes, ect and mess it up.
A few peices of random PVC would work. Don't really have any pics of my QT setup, but perhaps tonight I could assemble it and take one so you have an idea.
Yes HOT=Hang On Tank which is same as Hang On Back. I personally use Whisper filters, but a Liberty would work as well.
Lighting, for fish a standard tank top with a normal light bulb would work fine (like the kind that comes with many tanks). The normal flourescent bulb type would be better and could be used for corals for short term. If you want, a simple retrofit PC bulb could be used. You can get one that will fit into a standard plastic hood for like $35-40. Nothing fancy needed and the corals can live without the intense light for 2 weeks without problems (they do have rainy times in the tropics you know!)
The sponge filter attaches to an air line and goes into the tank itself. Only cost a few dollars. Basicall, the air flow causes water to be sucked through the sponge. the sponge provides a TON of surface area for the bacteria to reside and remove wastes. This is why you "seed" it with bacteria from your main tank (I use my sump) for like a week before settint up the QT. No real need to set up the tank itself that far ahead of time. 24 hours is plenty to make sure temp and water flow is working fine. A pic of a sponge filter is also below. The ones I use are black, just found this yellow pic handy. They also make them to attach to the intake side of a powerhead and the water flow from the powerhead is used instead of a air pump.
AS for the --- of the clownfish, if you get two juveniles, one will become female and the other male. They are born hermaphrodites (sp?) and can change from male to female...but not female to male. If you are still confused, two smaller clowns from any tank (including mail order) would work.
I'll have to think about the angel question. Hard to find one like that who won't eat corals unfortunately.
Well, off to work!!
1911_guy
Member
Making a lot more sense now.
Clown ---, got it.
Didn't know, I'll definetly have to get them while they're small.
Lighting, so a fluoresent light like for freshwater is ok?
Whisper 30 maybe? I always thought they were for freshwater only.
Have you heard of anyone placing sponges into sump at random? Like where overflow water enters sump? Or does it have to be attached to something?
Thanks again. If it's too much trouble, don't worry about pics.
I think I've got this almost built (in my head)
Clown ---, got it.
Lighting, so a fluoresent light like for freshwater is ok?
Whisper 30 maybe? I always thought they were for freshwater only.
Have you heard of anyone placing sponges into sump at random? Like where overflow water enters sump? Or does it have to be attached to something?
Thanks again. If it's too much trouble, don't worry about pics.
I think I've got this almost built (in my head)
thegrog
Active Member
Originally Posted by 1911_Guy
Making a lot more sense now.
Clown ---, got it.
Didn't know, I'll definetly have to get them while they're small.
Lighting, so a fluoresent light like for freshwater is ok?
Whisper 30 maybe? I always thought they were for freshwater only.
Have you heard of anyone placing sponges into sump at random? Like where overflow water enters sump? Or does it have to be attached to something?
Thanks again. If it's too much trouble, don't worry about pics.
I think I've got this almost built (in my head)
A whisper 30 is actually what I use. It takes the same size filters as the whisper 60 in my main tank so I don't have to buy a seperate filter. Never had a single problem with them. Inexpensive, reliable, and the media is cheap and widely available.
For a QT tank, yes, the standard flourescent light will work just fine. Fish just need some sort of day/night schedule. Most corals will be fine under that light for 2 weeks without much damage. Very high light demanding corals like SPS, stony, or anemones will need more light like a PC though. 55w of PC would be plenty.
I actually hood the sponge up so there is water flow through it to seed it. Just seems to be more effective, but don't have any proof of that. If it aint broke....
Been a very long and tiring day so I am going to relax and watch the second half of the Illini game.
Let me know if you need anything else!
Making a lot more sense now.
Clown ---, got it.
Lighting, so a fluoresent light like for freshwater is ok?
Whisper 30 maybe? I always thought they were for freshwater only.
Have you heard of anyone placing sponges into sump at random? Like where overflow water enters sump? Or does it have to be attached to something?
Thanks again. If it's too much trouble, don't worry about pics.
I think I've got this almost built (in my head)
A whisper 30 is actually what I use. It takes the same size filters as the whisper 60 in my main tank so I don't have to buy a seperate filter. Never had a single problem with them. Inexpensive, reliable, and the media is cheap and widely available.
For a QT tank, yes, the standard flourescent light will work just fine. Fish just need some sort of day/night schedule. Most corals will be fine under that light for 2 weeks without much damage. Very high light demanding corals like SPS, stony, or anemones will need more light like a PC though. 55w of PC would be plenty.
I actually hood the sponge up so there is water flow through it to seed it. Just seems to be more effective, but don't have any proof of that. If it aint broke....
Been a very long and tiring day so I am going to relax and watch the second half of the Illini game.
Let me know if you need anything else!
dingo0722
Member
This is what my mated pair do every week...Lay eggs. The male stays by the eggs and is highly aggressive, he even attacks me through the glass. After about 5 days the eggs hatch, feed the tank and 2 or 3 days later there is another batch of eggs. Its fun to watch them lay their eggs. Usually first thing in the morning when only the actinic is on they start working. After the eggs are layed, every day you can seen them develop. On the last day you can seen a little thing squirming.
1911_guy
Member
TheGrog
I'm thinking of setting up a 20G QT in my bedroom, don't really have anywhere else for it...but my wife wants to make it a permanent QT. Will I need to adjust any of the equipment if it's going to stay setup?
Will this even work without LR/LS, skimmer, etc.? Just Whisper filter, sponges and water changes with no live animals to create or consume wastes unless they are being quaranteened?
I'm thinking of setting up a 20G QT in my bedroom, don't really have anywhere else for it...but my wife wants to make it a permanent QT. Will I need to adjust any of the equipment if it's going to stay setup?
Will this even work without LR/LS, skimmer, etc.? Just Whisper filter, sponges and water changes with no live animals to create or consume wastes unless they are being quaranteened?
thegrog
Active Member
Originally Posted by 1911_Guy
TheGrog
I'm thinking of setting up a 20G QT in my bedroom, don't really have anywhere else for it...but my wife wants to make it a permanent QT. Will I need to adjust any of the equipment if it's going to stay setup?
Will this even work without LR/LS, skimmer, etc.? Just Whisper filter, sponges and water changes with no live animals to create or consume wastes unless they are being quaranteened?
I have kept a pair of clowns alive in my 10 gal QT setup with sponge filter and whisper for 6 months before without problem. They did just fine with only 1-2 gal weekly changes. Tank looked ugly with the PVC and the fake plants I put in there. I eventually put in a few small snails to help curb the algae growth though. So yes, it is possible. If you are planning on long term or perminant, then ditch the PVC and get some artificial aquascaping to avoid the eyesore. Costs a few dollars more, but you will be able to stand to look at it. You may even consider adding a thin layer (1/2") of coarse aquarium gravel to the bottom to keep up the appearance. It is pretty inert, won't absorb any medications, and will eventually help out some with biofiltration. You will have to vacuum it regularly though to keep it clean.
With a small bioload and no corals, a skimmer really is not necessary.
If there are no fish in there and nothing consuming anything, the bacteria will eventually starve off and you will have a water tank. Something should be kept in there, even if it is just a damsel. If you go that route, then get one of those tank dividers where you can section off the damsel from the new fish to avoid any hostility. Damsels are pretty tough and if you need to treat the tank for disease, they can pretty much handle it. They only cost a few dollars as well so not a huge loss if you accidentally kill it.
The thing with not having any LR or LS in the tank is that you can medicate it without killing off the bacteria in the rock/sand. In addition, the rocks and sand will absorb most medications and will almost always have traces of them thus perminantly contaminating them.
If you do need to medicate, you should remove the sponge filter and the carbon (leave an empty filter bag for mechanical filtration) to avoid killing the sponge and removing the medicine prematurely. Some advocate medicating all fish in QT, but I feel this is unnecessary in the absence of disease. If there are any snails in the tank, they should be removed prior to medicating else they will die and spike your ammonia.
Congrats on deciding on QT!! You will be much happier knowing that you will have a 99.9% disease-free tank (nothing is totally 100%)
Let me know if any more questions
TheGrog
I'm thinking of setting up a 20G QT in my bedroom, don't really have anywhere else for it...but my wife wants to make it a permanent QT. Will I need to adjust any of the equipment if it's going to stay setup?
Will this even work without LR/LS, skimmer, etc.? Just Whisper filter, sponges and water changes with no live animals to create or consume wastes unless they are being quaranteened?
I have kept a pair of clowns alive in my 10 gal QT setup with sponge filter and whisper for 6 months before without problem. They did just fine with only 1-2 gal weekly changes. Tank looked ugly with the PVC and the fake plants I put in there. I eventually put in a few small snails to help curb the algae growth though. So yes, it is possible. If you are planning on long term or perminant, then ditch the PVC and get some artificial aquascaping to avoid the eyesore. Costs a few dollars more, but you will be able to stand to look at it. You may even consider adding a thin layer (1/2") of coarse aquarium gravel to the bottom to keep up the appearance. It is pretty inert, won't absorb any medications, and will eventually help out some with biofiltration. You will have to vacuum it regularly though to keep it clean.
With a small bioload and no corals, a skimmer really is not necessary.
If there are no fish in there and nothing consuming anything, the bacteria will eventually starve off and you will have a water tank. Something should be kept in there, even if it is just a damsel. If you go that route, then get one of those tank dividers where you can section off the damsel from the new fish to avoid any hostility. Damsels are pretty tough and if you need to treat the tank for disease, they can pretty much handle it. They only cost a few dollars as well so not a huge loss if you accidentally kill it.
The thing with not having any LR or LS in the tank is that you can medicate it without killing off the bacteria in the rock/sand. In addition, the rocks and sand will absorb most medications and will almost always have traces of them thus perminantly contaminating them.
If you do need to medicate, you should remove the sponge filter and the carbon (leave an empty filter bag for mechanical filtration) to avoid killing the sponge and removing the medicine prematurely. Some advocate medicating all fish in QT, but I feel this is unnecessary in the absence of disease. If there are any snails in the tank, they should be removed prior to medicating else they will die and spike your ammonia.
Congrats on deciding on QT!! You will be much happier knowing that you will have a 99.9% disease-free tank (nothing is totally 100%)
Let me know if any more questions
1911_guy
Member
Thank you so much Grog, I'll definetly assemble a QT tank as soon as I return from FL.
By coarse gravel, are you referring to the basic gravel used in most freshwater tanks?
This forum is such a great tool for newbies, your advice and those from others will probably save me thousands of dollars and a million heartaches, thank you!
By coarse gravel, are you referring to the basic gravel used in most freshwater tanks?
This forum is such a great tool for newbies, your advice and those from others will probably save me thousands of dollars and a million heartaches, thank you!
thegrog
Active Member
Originally Posted by 1911_Guy
Thank you so much Grog, I'll definetly assemble a QT tank as soon as I return from FL.
By coarse gravel, are you referring to the basic gravel used in most freshwater tanks?
This forum is such a great tool for newbies, your advice and those from others will probably save me thousands of dollars and a million heartaches, thank you!
Yes, that gravel.
Where in FL are you headed?
Thank you so much Grog, I'll definetly assemble a QT tank as soon as I return from FL.
By coarse gravel, are you referring to the basic gravel used in most freshwater tanks?
This forum is such a great tool for newbies, your advice and those from others will probably save me thousands of dollars and a million heartaches, thank you!
Yes, that gravel.
Where in FL are you headed?