mkzimm's 40G reef build

mkzimms

Member
alright, this project is a few months in the making. i've been stock piling parts and ideas, so everything is now coming together and i figured it was about time to start a build thread. i want a clean and well put together look... no hanging wires, nothing above the rim of the tank (other than lights) and everything easy to manage.
heres the basic equipment rundown as it stands right now... these are items currently in my hands. i still have some parts that need to be bought like the skimmer and fluidized bed filter which will be dealt with at a later date.
40G Breeder
20G Long sump/fuge
312 watts of T5HO (dual nova extremes)
Mag-drive 7 submersible (700gph)
700gph overflow setup from glass-holes
Three maxi-jet 1200 power heads
Redsea wavemaker pro
RO/DI auto-topoff
Two 100W pro-heat titanium heaters
27W 6500K PC fuge light
8-switch power center
---
the tank has been sitting in the living room on the floor so i finally broke down and got the stand to make my girlfriend happy and she went out and bought some book shelves to sit on either side of it. i forgot to mount the lights for the picture, but im sure you get the idea. i took the picture kind of to the side so it doesn't look centered, but i assure you, my girl made sure it was 10000000% centered.

i spent today drilling the tank and getting the overflow and return parts squared away.

the overflow is a 700gph overflow kit from glass-holes. its a 1.5" bulk head that butts up to a 2"x2"x6" toothed acrylic box. it will run durso style with a vent tube. its baffled inside and there is a horizontal piece that crosses those two baffles (seen in the picture) to make the bulkhead draw from under the water-line and it will be ridiculously quiet because of that. no gurgles and hicups.




for the return i went with 1/2" loc-line bulkheaded through the center of the glass to achieve the "clean" look, no dog bones for me. its split with a Y fitting and runs to two 1 1/2" flares. pretty much standard issue.


heres a pic of the finished overflow / return setup from the back... i think it looks pretty good and exactly the look i'm going for. im amazed at how well the overflow kit looks. it very low profile and has around 10" of linear overflow for sufficient surface skimming.

heres the setup from the front.

thats about all i can do for today... luckily i timed all the rest of the parts comming in for the 3 day memorial day weekend and have all weekend to fab up all the rest. tomorrow im going to try and get into some plumbing and sump fabricating.
 

grubsnaek

Active Member
that thing is sick, and mkzimm thank you for the idea of the overflow boxes, seen them, but never really looked at them. i am going to be re-doing my 125DT for better filtration...that is something that i am purchasing
 

mkzimms

Member
Originally Posted by grubsnaek
http:///forum/post/2620139
that thing is sick, and mkzimm thank you for the idea of the overflow boxes, seen them, but never really looked at them. i am going to be re-doing my 125DT for better filtration...that is something that i am purchasing
they have a nice 1500gph kit that utilizes two 1.5" bulkheads and a 12" box. you wouldn't even see it in a 125.
 

mkzimms

Member
Originally Posted by grubsnaek
http:///forum/post/2620270
is there a siphon break on ur loc-line return
its not actually part of the loc-line section of the return... ill be adding a 1/2" swing check valve about 5" above the pump on the return line. maybe two, one as a failsafe.
all my instincts tell me to use a spring cv instead of a swing cv, but im afraid a metal spring will corrode in the salt water and be useless when needed. i have yet to locate a sprung cv that does not use a metal spring.
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by grubsnaek
http:///forum/post/2620270
is there a siphon break on ur loc-line return
I wouldn't rely on a check valve - they are great until you need them, then they always seem to fail. Just put one of the returns just below the surface,and it will serve as a siphon break in the event of a power outage.
 

mkzimms

Member
Originally Posted by GeriDoc
http:///forum/post/2620982
I wouldn't rely on a check valve - they are great until you need them, then they always seem to fail. Just put one of the returns just below the surface,and it will serve as a siphon break in the event of a power outage.
the returns sit less than an inch below where the water-line will be... i guess you could call it accidental engineering.
 

hefner413

Active Member
actually, the level of the flares are what matters.. right? so just make sure the level of the flares are close to the surface.
 

mkzimms

Member
good point. i'll either turn one of the flares up for surface agitation or drill a very small hole at the base of the Y fitting. should i just skip the check valve all together or keep it just in case? my intentions were to use the check valve to keep zero amount of water from siphoning back instead of waiting for an inch of the DT water to flow back before it stops.
 

saltyh2o

New Member
Your tank is going to be awesome. I love the clean look you are goin for. Don't forget to post picks after the weekend.
 

mkzimms

Member
thanks, im excited about it! unfortunatly no other pics from the weekend but here is a teaser.
i bought my PVC, had to get 10' worth of both 1.5" and 0.5". home depot doesn't sell in anything less than those lengths but they were about $3 per pipe so ill just find something else to do with the rest... i had to rent a van, lol. anyway, im still waiting for my fittings to come in before i can start mocking up the plumbing. im annoyed because i wanted to do it this weekend.
to connect sections of pipe ill be using cam and groove couplings instead of the standard unions. i first heard about them from joe berger at the long island reef association meeting on building a high tech aquarium. they consist of two pieces: a socket and a plug. to connect, you insert the plug into the socket and press the levers down. the levers fit into a groove on the plugs body and force the plug down against the gasket to form a seal. to disconnect, lift both of the levers up and pull out the plug. incase you were wondering, the levers do lock into place on the socket when closed so theres no risk of accidental opening.
heres what they look like

they also make them in 90 and 45 deg bends. i ordered the fda/nsf-61 rated polypropylene versions with type 304 stainless steel levers which are for food and drinking water applications so they will be 100% reef safe. ill also be using ball-valves from the same distributor which are a higher quality than the home depot generic versions to ensure they do not stick shut after a few years of not being turned.
these pieces may be overkill, but since when is anything in this hobby not???
 

mkzimms

Member
im a little bit bummed about my hardware not getting here in time for the long weekend (and they're still not here yet) so ive moved on to other small things that have to get done in the mean time.
i worked tonight on getting the tank prepped for paint. ive masked everything off but struggled with the decision on how to deal with painting around the bulkheads. after an offline conversation with geridoc i decided to go with leaving a 1/2" space around the bulkhead for the overflow. the reasoning is i already know the bulkhead will seal well on glass, but i dont know about painted glass. since that area is covered by the overflow, i wont care about there being a gap. since the bulkhead for the return does not require an outer seal i will just paint that to the edge of the hole. obviously i will be covering the top as soon as i move it to where it will be painted.



the paint ill be using is spray on black rust-oleum appliance epoxy. its washable and moisture and scratch resistant. ive already done a test paint on a 10G i had lying around and the finish looks amazing and it is indeed scratch and water resistant.
 

mkzimms

Member
started painting last night and it looks really good. the paint went on pretty thick and i ended up doing 3 coats at half an hour intervals. not much to say about painting, so heres a few photos instead.

i painted with a light on inside the tank so i could make sure there was an even coverage.

and here is the final product...

 

hefner413

Active Member
there's a small spot in the lower left hand corner of the 3rd pic that you missed.
ahhh man. nevermind. that's just a pixel that is out on my lcd screen. shoot.
 
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