My first Anemone

mn1467

Member
I am finally getting my first anemone. It is a Bubble Tip. I have purchased it form this lovely website. I will post some pics when I get it. hopefully tomorrow. I guess all I want form you guys is to give me some helpful tips on how to care for him. I have good lighting and I also have four clowns ( my guess there will be some fighting on who is goin to host) the clowns are 2 clarki and 2 saddlebacks. Now I know I will be spot feeding from time to time in the begining if the clowns do not host right away. and when finnaly one of them does host the clown will bring the food to him. well anyway any tips or suggestions or anything at all will be greatly appreciated
 

thegrog

Active Member
OK, lots to go over here.
First of all, you should have found about the anemones needs BEFORE buying it.
When you say your lighting is good, please elaborate. What size is your tank, how many watts and of what type of lighting do you have. What type of anemone is it?
As for the clowns, yes you WILL have infighting that WILL most likely result in the death of it least 2 of them.....if not more. Not just who will host, but over territory.....in this case it will be the entire tank. Clowns are very territorial, especially towards other types of clowns. Infighting is almost sure to occur in time. Pick one species to live in your tank and get rid of the other pair. You may stand a chance of keeping both if your tank is 200+ gallons...but that is a long shot at best.
Anemones don't necessarily require feeding, they feed of light. That is why lots of intense lighting is necessary to keep them alive long term.
I don't mean to flame you, but please, do some research on all creatures you intend to place in your tank before buying them. Far too many beautiful sea creatures die every year because they get placed into improper systems or with incompatable tankmates.
 

mn1467

Member
ok not to sound mean but I did alot of research on this. The reason I posted this thread is to see what advice everybody can give me meaning people who have had success with keeping anemones. Also I did mention what type of anemone it is again it is a BUBBLE TIP the one from this website. The clowns that I have in the tank (CLARKI's and SADDLEBACKS) are very compatible with each other there has not been any fighting between them. My clarkis already host my leather toadstool. I am hoping the saddlebacks host the anemone. The reason I bought the BTA is because I read the split often. My lighting is Power compacts( 96watts 2 white and 2 actinics) I belive that is enough lighting for this type of anemone.
and again i did find out what the anemones need I just wanted some more advice
Anemones don't necessarily require feeding, they feed of light. That is why lots of intense lighting is necessary to keep them alive long term.
by the way you are wrong on this they do need feeding and also light
 

mn1467

Member
After rereading my post I failed to mention that I did research on the subject and all I wanted was additional input my apoloigies to you "TheGrog"
 

thegrog

Active Member
Originally Posted by MN1467
After rereading my post I failed to mention that I did research on the subject and all I wanted was additional input my apoloigies to you "TheGrog"
I apologize as well. Didn't see you did post the type of anemone. Far too many people do end up getting these beautiful creatures without learning about them and then want help after the fact.
What size is your tank? With 96 total watts of PC (if I am reading your post correctly), if your tank is over 30 gallons, you are still a little short.
Where did you read/hear about Clarkis and saddlebacks being compatable? If you are basing this on the fact that they get along now, you may be mistaken. They are most likely young and not to breeding age/size yet. When they get to that point is when they really will become aggressive towards other clowns. I still stand by my original statement of not mixing clowns.

If you read what I posted, I said that anemones dont "necessairly" require regular feedings. I rarely intentionally feed my RBTA and it has been thriving for 2+ years under MH lighting. It does however, pick up small bits all the time from when I feed the rest of the tank. My clowns ignore it so no feeding there. When I do feed it, I usually will either give it a peice of my own slurry blend, Selcon-soaked squid/shrimp, or a few thin slices of Formula One. The majority of their nutrition comes from the Symbiotic algae zooxanthellae that resides within the anemone. Without light, these die. With enough intense light, they thrive and give you anemone its deep color.
Hope this clears up a few things.
 

diane4

Member
MN1467
SNOW FLAKE EEL
There are lots of opinions for everything in life. I have read from a majority of people on this forum that they feel that metal halide lights at appx 5-6 watts per gallon and they need good current and very infrequent feedings. Some don't feed at all.
I will tell you from my personal living experience. I have a 50 gallon reef tank with a bubble tip anemone and a mated pair of Tomatoe clownfish and a few other verts in the tank. I am running appx 5 watts per gallon of Coralife Lunar lights distributed between 2 lights sets. AND I target feed my anemone every other day, sometimes every day a small peice of raw shrimp, krill or fresh fish. The coloratin of the anemone is a nice tan color and it has grown.
I think that some anemones do require the stronger lights which may be why I had a long tip anemone that died on me. But, there is no question that my BTA is thriving happily as a host anemone to my mated clownfish that spawned twice in 3 weeks time.
Not all opinions agree and I believe there is no 100% fact and law for all instances and circumstances of reef tanks. What works for one person, may not work for another.
Enjoy your anemone and feel your own way into what you think is right based on all things you read AND how your anemone seems to be responding to your environment.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
And now my 2 cents.
Hi MN1467

I've personally been keeping/raising BTA's for 5 years now, and they can be alot of fun to watch with the clowns living in them.
Forgive me for being blind but did you mention your tank size that you have the 96 watts over? I do notice that you seem to have several tanks. Is the 96 watts total? Please clairify total watts.
What I would check when getting an anemone is of course your water paramiters, paying attention to the calcium and alkalinity as well as pH. Make sure that the anemone, in this case BTA, has rocks to get on so he can look for a good place to put his pedal disc into, and to reach for as much light as he is able to.
With regards to the feeding debate. I'm one that believes that way to many people over feed anemones, or they think that feeding will replace the lighting issue if the lighting doesn't measure up, you would be suprised how many think that way. To many folks just don't understand that its the zooxanthellae that lives in the anemone that needs this light.
Zooxanthellae are a very special type of marine plant. The zooxanthellae are single celled algae which live inside the translucent fleshy tissue of many marine animals including types of giant clams, nudibranchs and even jellyfish, however they play their most important role when living within coral polyps an anemones. Like all other plants zooxanthellae need sunlight in order to photosynthesise and grow. Photosynthesis produces sugars essential for the plants to grow, however with the zooxanthellae enough sugar is produced to allow some to be shared with their hosts. In return the host will assist the growth of the zooxanthellae by passing on some of its dissolved organic waste. The host animal cannot usually survive if the zooxanthellae are not present.
The host animals do not have any zooxanthellae in their larval forms and therefore must acquire them from the water column. The juvenile host filters the zooxanthellae from the seawater along with its food and once in the stomach of the host the zooxanthellae is passed into the surface flesh.
It is for this reason that some of us will constantly like a broken record say that the lighting is so vastly important, much more so than direct feeding. This is why we always ask for total watts, what type, what spectrum, age of lights, tank size, depth of tank, photo periods and on and on when we don't know all the variables. And please forgive us as some of us skim posts instead of reading word per word, me included.
Sure I think anemones should be fed, just not as often as coutless posts have indicated that many folks do. I've gone 2 months without feeding my BTA's, but if I had a carpet anemone than I'd be feeding it every week because its needs are different than a BTA.
As to the mixing of species of clownfish, from experience I can tell you that I'll never do that again. But I'll let you be the judge of that one in time. Personally I'd only keep two of a kind in even my 90 gallon, and I just happen to have two false percs that mate about every two weeks with a new clutch of babies. They simply would not tolerate another clownfish in the tank, let alone my own hand, LOL..
Clowns are really not bringing food to an anemone, they are simply greedy little buggers that are trying to hid food for themselfs later, but are inavertantly feeding the anemone in that way as well as with their own waste material later on.
If you have any other questions I'd be happy to help, and I look forward to your sharing your pics of the new anemone.
Thomas
 

mn1467

Member
My tank size to a 60 gallon the watts 96 watts of dual white and actinics( After reading a little more I am going to upgrade my lights to MH hopefully tonight) I have taken two of the clowns out of my 60 an added them to my 30. I should of realized they will be fighting when and if any spawning happens. My other problem I have is ICH. My entire tank is crashing because of it so I propably will not add the anemone just yet until I get it under control(He will be visiting my LFS for a little while). I thank everybody for there info and hopefully I can enjoy my new BTA in some time but for now he will not be going into my tank until I get everything under control
It is very upsetting to see this happen to fish I had for so long. I am treeting them and hopefully everything will be ok in about a months time
 
T

thomas712

Guest
I see one critical error here. If that tank (the 60) has ick and you took two fish out of there and put them in the 30 gallon, then your 30 now has ick as well.
Glad to hear that the lighting will be increased.
 

mn1467

Member
My Anemone is living well in a friends tank right now my LFS would not take him. My other tanks are shot. I tried HYPO on my 60 gallon 90% of my fish died

The two clowns that I moved died as well the damsels beat the crap out of them.
My whole tank crashed on me
I already did a 90% water change I do not want to treat with copper because of the corals I have in the tank. right now all my corals are not looking to good. I do not think it was from the ich maybe the huge water change. I am waiting for everything to come back in line I guess now it is just a waiting game. I also tried a fresh water dip on two of the surving fish last night this morn they did not look so good
I might have to start from scratch.. I will keep you guys posted if anyone is interseted
sorry for my spelling I am typing to fast
Thanks for all your input also I really appreciate it
 

mn1467

Member
By the way the funny thing about all this is my original fish (4 stripe damsel) he was one of the first fish I put in my tank and he has lasted through everything that goes on in the tank. He is the only reason I stayed in this hobby he jut doesn't want to go. This tank has gone through two crashes now and 2 moves 1 move was when I move to my new house and the 2nd move was to an upgrade of my tank I love that guy
I guess it isn't really funny after you read this
 

mn1467

Member
just to let everybody know my tank is not doing so good I justed posted in the reef tank forum with some info
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Sorry to hear about all of that, I had no idea you had all those fish in there either. you will need to keep this system fishless for about 30 days now to rid it of the ick parisite.
Thomas
 
J

jacob_poly

Guest
just one bit of advice....the light you mentioned you are going to upgrade and htats good....however as Thomas mentioned, do watch your alkalinity-pH-calcium balance. I have three BTA's since a year, all three were dark and growing. Then this summer(about two months ago) my Calcium hit an all time low of 200 ppm. I didn't realize this for a long time and watched over several days as my anemones gradually bleached till they were stark white. I tried adding all the kalk in teh world but the Ca did not rise. Finally I got some calcium supplement from SeaChem which raised both my Ca and Mg to the right levels. Ever since the Ca levels came back to normal, my anemones have been doing fine (as in well expanded and eating)....I still will have to wait a long time before they regain their color again. I feel real bad that I overlooked the Calcium which caused this to happen. For the future I am thinking of a Ca reactor. But bottomline is that these numbers are very important to maintain.
 
T

thomas712

Guest
Originally Posted by MN1467
Thomas712 I heard of this stuff called KICK ICH what do you think about it?
Some say it works, but they don't understand what if anything cured their fish. With kick ick you may find that the parisite may leave the fish, many folks then think they are cured, wrong.... Part of a phase of the ick lands in the substrate for a while and then back on the fish later on. It is also possible for the fish to fight off the parisite itself.
However, its a product that I do not trust, because so far nothing has been better than the tried and true method of hypo salinity, or just plane leaving the tank fishless until the parisite dies off, because they must have a host to live.
Talk with Beth about ick and treatment and see what she says.
Thomas.
 
J

jacob_poly

Guest
also attempt garlic based additives with the fish food.....seems to be very effective with helping fish build immunity....
 

mn1467

Member
I have a garlic bloodworm brine shrimp concoction of my own that I feed my tanks with. Just started it after the ich came out because I heard of garlic helping to build imunity. Someone at my LFS said garlic also gets rid of ich but I know better
 

thegrog

Active Member
Personally, I feel that garlic has no place in a reef tank. How many fish in the ocean eat garlic? Some will swear by it, but personally I would stick with known medications to treat disease. Good marine nutrition can help with immunity. Cyclopeez, selcon, and vitachem have worked wonders for my fish.
Hope this unfortunate turn of events has convinced you of the importance of proper quarantine for all animals in your tank. With QT, this could have all been avoided.
 
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