Need approval for 110g plumbing. :D

[snakeblitz33]

Yeah, this again.
I got an itchy trigger finger to get started on my 110g project.
The customer service rep at Reeflo recommended a Dart/Snapper hybrid pump for the closed loop system. I guess I'll start with the snapper kit and if I see that I don't like it, then I will go with the dart.

Messy on paper, I know. I want to re-use my 20g tall for something - so I decided a display fuge would be great if I had the room. If I don't, then no real loss. I just will use it for an auto top off reservoir inside a cabinet.
So, thoughts? Suggestions? Opinions?

 

[mr. limpid]

Why so many drains from DT and how are you going to control the supply to your fuge? Your house plans show much larger spot for tanks are there more in the plans?

 

[snakeblitz33]

There are three drains for the bean animal overflow. One is called a siphon, another is the backup auto siphon and the third is an emergency drain. Then there is a drain for the closed loop system. The return pump for the main display tank will also push water to the display refugium and will be controlled via a ball valve.
I don't plan my life to that absolute detail. No telling where I will be in three years to be honest. Hopefully I will be starting to build my home in the country... I will have to plan for a tank then or just use the one that I have. I've always enjoyed looking at 125g and 180g. A short 200g would be nice too. Anyways..... Comments on the plumbing / tank?

 

[acrylic51]

Snake.....You know I'm a big fan of the BeanAnimal overflow and it works....Dead silent, and once you tune it which should take roughly 5-10 minutes, it set and forget unless you swap out to a different pump or change the flow rate to the display fuge......You have to remember if you tweak 1 valve you'll have to tweak possibly on the siphon line......
It might be a bit expensive, but honestly if you want to really fine tune your flow to your returns and such I'd suggest gate valves vs using ball valves.....Something I wish I had done on a line or 2 to be really precise, but it's no big issue though......
I think the plan looks rather solid.....I would do a couple things.....I'd put a valve on the return line to the display fuge......That way you can control what goes where.......Another area you might look closely at is your returns to your CL's.......I see that you have valves in place and I'd use true union valves on everything....That way you can take lines apart super easy. The other thing you might want to consider is that with just 1 line feeding both CL bulkheads (top & bottom) that you might run into an issue that you'll get a majority of your flow through the bottom bulkheads and reduced flow to the uppers.....You might consider valves on the bottom bulkheads to equalize flow to all the bulkheads....Remember water will take it's least resistive path and that will be the bottom bulkheads.
Another tip and I'm sure you've thought through quite a bit of this already, but sched 80 bulkheads on the CL.......

 

[novahobbies]

You've definitely got more plumbing knowledge than I do here. I really hope you can make your fuge into a fully displayable piece, that's something I wish I could do with mine! Sounds funny to admit, but I spent quite a lot of time down below looking at the fuge when my 110 was running last. Lots of interesting critters down there.
Here's a silly question. Is it possible to route one of the bean animal overflows directly into the fuge instead of down into the sump? Seems the fuge would benefit more from some slightly dirtier water than what would come from the sump return, but I'm not sure if the BA overflow's physics would allow it.

 

[acrylic51]

You've definitely got more plumbing knowledge than I do here.  I really hope you can make your fuge into a fully displayable piece, that's something I wish I could do with mine!  Sounds funny to admit, but I spent quite a lot of time down below looking at the fuge when my 110 was running last.  Lots of interesting critters down there.
Here's a silly question.  Is it possible to route one of the bean animal overflows directly into the fuge instead of down into the sump?  Seems the fuge would benefit more from some slightly dirtier water than what would come from the sump return, but I'm not sure if the BA overflow's physics would allow it.
No the overflow isn't designed to feed something else. It's design is to provide a solid/reliable flow to the sump. Toying with the line feeding the fuge could produce a flood if the siphon line would clog, the open channel would automatically pick up all the flow and overflow the fuge.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Thank you Acrylic. lol
What he said.
Anyways, I do know that the return pipe coming from the mag 9.5 will need a gate valve installed for the fuge as well as for the display tank return.
I am torn though between using the mag 9.5 or stepping it up to a mag 12.

 

[snakeblitz33]

I'm also debating if I want to use a beananimal overflow on the fuge as well. I mean, if I do one tank like that - shouldn't I do it on the other one because of the noise as well?? That's what I'm thinking.
Good way to recycle my current tank - to make it into a display fuge.
I'll be glad when I move in my new rent house. I'm debating if I want to just go ahead and drill it and brace my current stand up some more and just go for it or not... Im not sure yet.

 

[acrylic51]

Honestly I wouldn't see any advantage for the BeanAnimal overflow on the fuge tank.....There is no where near any real amount of flow going through the fuge......

 

[acrylic51]

Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/391504/need-approval-for-110g-plumbing-d#post_3472624
Thank you Acrylic. lol
What he said.
Anyways, I do know that the return pipe coming from the mag 9.5 will need a gate valve installed for the fuge as well as for the display tank return.
I am torn though between using the mag 9.5 or stepping it up to a mag 12.
What size plumbing are we talking about coming of the return pump.....

 

[acrylic51]

A bit off topic Seth, but here's another pic of what LEDs can do.....

 

[snakeblitz33]

Seen it. And yes, it's beautiful and impressive.
I am closely watching nova hobbies 110g build. He is going with LEDs and they are getting within my price range. One more year and I might can afford it. Lol!

 

[novahobbies]

LOL, and I'm closely watching your prep threads!
I still don't know for sure about the LEDs. I'll be using the same ones Nissan chose....essentially Chinese fixtures that are somewhere between the big boys of US lighting and DIY fixtures. I found mine from Alibaba. They're $180 per unit (55 sw LEDs per unit) and when I consider the cost of a MH fixture from the 'Traders ($240) plus the immediate cost of two decent MH bulbs ($75 each), I'll be saving money.
It's a risk, though, and I know it. I may be throwing money away, not saving it. I'll buy the first "tester" unit when I get back from Hawaii mid-June, put it on my horse tank, and I'll let you know.

 

[2quills]

Lots of folks are finding success with those cheaper import fixtures. Only problem ive really heard is that if or when (i should say) they break down then its best of luck to you trying to contact any manufacturer. Best bet is to find an American company that is selling the same types of fixtures. At least then you might get some tech support if need be and or warrenty replacement.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Only reason why I would go with LEDs is because the features and the ability to have storms with the use of a controller. Pretty much.

 

[2quills]

Only reason why I would go with LEDs is because the features and the ability to have storms with the use of a controller. Pretty much.
Thats where you need to spend the money to get a fixture thats compatible for that with modulated dimming and simmulations. So far the A.I. Sol's seem to be the cheapest entry level fixtures with those options available.

 

[snakeblitz33]

Not sure if those would be the best choice with a 32" tall tank?

 

[2quills]

Quote:
Originally Posted by novahobbies http:///t/391504/need-approval-for-110g-plumbing-d#post_3472762
It's a risk, though, and I know it. I may be throwing money away, not saving it.
I have become convinced that there is no way of avoiding this entirely 100% where this hobby is concerned. No matter how much you try to plan and make the right choices you just can't escape the unavoidable risks that come from trying new things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SnakeBlitz33 http:///t/391504/need-approval-for-110g-plumbing-d#post_3472810
Not sure if those would be the best choice with a 32" tall tank?
Hard to say but if you have an end goal for the tank in mind and have a pretty good idea of what your needs will be then that helps. One thing about the A.I.'s is the sheer amount of people who have tried and used them successfully over the last few years. I don't really doubt their abilities much at all. Their biggest draw back in my eyes has always been the lack of good customizable options for their fixtures. Considering that there is nothing overly fancy about them other than the control options the same could be easily accomplished slightly cheaper by anyone who can do math with knowledge of basic circuits as well as trouble shooting them. But there are of course the are inherent risks involved when immersing yourself in such tasks there as well (if not more).

 

[snakeblitz33]

Yeah, I would rather pay for a commercial unit than build one myself. Too much risk involved for me - since I'm not that good at electronics.
I'm having a hell of a time programming my profilux 2 controller... even with the guide on the other forum. Seems like Apex would have been a better choice for me.

 

[acrylic51]

How far along have you gotten Seth.....(Programming).....