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I don’t have a computer. All I have is my phone. The picture is to large. I’m not tech savvy at all. And some of my stuff are videos because I can’t get the fish to hold still.
I really don’t know what the problem is but I’ve lost most of my fish. I’ve been reefing since 2003 so I’m well practiced in dealing with fish disease. But this is unlike anything I’ve ever seen. One fish had what looked like an infection. I ran fish mox and had zero effect. By the end his tail split open and all but fell off! The powder blue started with what looked like ich but ended with his skin looking like it melted off. One fish looked like his scales fell off. One fish looked like ich, but then it looked like the white bumps started eating into him. It ended up looking like black ich in the end. Now my coral beauty is floating sideways and acts like his insides are blowing up.
I started by treating with hypo. There was zero change. Then I thought it was velvet, so I ran copper. No change. I tried quick cure by mardel and methylene blue. No change. I also used E.M. Erythromycin with no effect. When the yellow tang started looking like he had black ich I used prazipro and it did nothing.
My clown fish seem to have zero problems while everything around them is dying.
I made sure and removed the previous treatment prior to starting any new treatment. It’s been close to 3 months in the QT and I have 4 fish left. Is there a way I could get the photos to you? Maybe a Facebook group your a part of or something?
I finally figured out how to post pictures. I had to email them to myself and then re-save them. My QT is 10 gal. All my parameters are spot on. Yes I Qurentine every fish religiously. Yes one Fish got sick in the tank supposedly from a non-Qurentine coral being added. After removing all fish and adding them all to the quarantine tank, each Fish showed different symptoms and seemingly different diseases. I have since lost almost all of them. Micro beauty seem to have a swim bladder problem and died from it. One of my fish seem to get a bacterial infection and by the time it was over it had torn him in half. Then my yellow tang and my hippo tang both have what seems to me to be black ich. But prazipro has had no effect. The yellow tang has since died. I have dealt with ich and velvet many times over my 15 years of reefing. This is something I have never seen.
Never ever take a fish out of water, lay them down on a net with your hand as a pillow, especially a sick fish. The amt of stress and contamination can cause death, excellearted disease activity. The spots seem to go along the lateral line mostly and then around the tail rear area. That is indicative of HLLE. The darkness of that area may indicate a fungus which latched on to what was a vulnerable areas of skin disease.
How many fish are now in a 10 gal tank?
What is your source water?
With all the variety of symptoms, I think I will look to an environmental problem rather than parasites, infections, etc., though infections is certainly possibly a secondary issue.
I was moving him from one tank to another. That’s the only reason he was out of the water. And he was only out long enough to snap 3 quick pictures.
My source of water is a 6 stage RODI unit. My TDS tests at 3.
Currently there are two clown fish and this hippo tang in the QT. And I feed the tang dried algae every day.
What treatment would you recommend? I have quick cure by mardel, stress guard by seachem,coppersafe by mardel, methylene blue by kordon, prazipro, E.M. Erythromycin by API, pimafix, and fish mox.
I'd recommend a better diet than just algae for a hippo. Most tangs are omnivores not herbivores, so they need a varied mixture of both meaty and algae foods. I'd recommend offering some high quality frozen food. This yellow tang looks absolutely emaciated. Was this fish at one time decently plump and then evolved down to malnutrition due to the illness? Are those spots eroded flesh (missing scales)?
I wouldn't recommend any treatment for HLLE other than an improved environment and nutrition. I would recommend adding either zeocon of selcon to the food. It could be the too many meds is having an adverse effect, and that would especially true with tangs.
How are the clowns doing?
Best not to separate fish from water at all, especially fish already ill.
The tang does eat more then algae. I also feed him brine and Misis. I was just saying that I do feed them algae also as a nutritional need.
The yellow tang was very fat and very happy. But then he got these bumps. He kept loosing weight even though he voraciously ate. Just before he died he stopped eating.
I’m not sure what the dots are. I thought they were black ich, but prazpro had no effect. When he was alive each of those dots had a white bump in the middle that looked like an ich bump.
I haven’t been dosing all those meds I mentioned. I was simply relaying the meds I have available.
The clowns are fat and happy. They seem to have nothing wrong with them at all.
I'd stop feeding your fish brine as a mainstay. You can offer occasionally. Brine is kind of a snack diet and offers little to no nutritruition. Go with a few more varieties of meaty frozen, or if you want you can mix up your own fresh seafood batch which I find was best all around for fish and other animals in the display that will take meat. For now, treat with just zoecon or selcon soaked in the meaty food. Allow it to soak in for a few mins, then feed your fish. See if you can get that ASAP. Do a gal daily water change. Do the diet change and add zoecon. Use water from your display tank to change out water in the QT.
How do you mix your water?
You mention above that you have used a few different medications. Please clarify what you used on this fish? Are the clowns and hippo the only fish left?
If the clowns have been good without disease, move them back to display. Corral them into a ziplock bag with water then make the transfer via acclimation to the display. Make sure if you net at all, that it is cleaned well, like with antibacterial soap and alcohol. Hippo should be in isolation, especially in a small tank. Can you provide a pick of hippo in QT?
The spots on the yellow look a bit like the end result of black ich after the parasite dies. If a fish is eating but still losing weight I would suspect internal parasites.
Some sort of secondary bacterial or fungal infection is a distinct possibility.
At this point there is certainly multiple issues to be dealt with including the stress of being in such a small space.
The dark spots not sure. It could be a fungus around wound sites or just scale die-off, it looked to me like they surrounded eroded flesh areas that I thought was HLLE. I asked magic if that was eroded skin, but I don't believe he answered.
I think it is best to get the QT cleaned up and the clowns out (if possible), the diet right with the supplement that tangs do respond to very well and then take treatment options from there, especially before adding medications willy-nilly.
I’m not sure if that is eroded skin or not. As I said before, I thought it was black ich. But after treatment for black ich failed to fix the problem, I was at a lose.
I have treated these fish with hypo, copper safe, and prazpro.
The first thing I noticed was that they seemed to have ich. So I moved them to the quarantine tank and began treating them with hypo. The ich dots became worse so I assumed it must be velvet. I brought them back up to normal levels of salinity, and then began treating with coppersafe. The dots still did not go away. After some time the brown spots started to show. So I removed the copper from the system, and began treating with prazpro.
I am very attentive to quarantine system. I try to treat disease by the book. I do not mix treatments such as hypo and copper.
I mix my water in a 5 gal bucket that I use only for fresh clean water. I run a bubble stone overnight and heat the water to match tank conditions.
I will try to get a picture of the hippo in the tank when I can.
The reason I include Brine is because I have smaller fish in my display that can’t handle the bigger stuff. Such as a clown goby and some fire fish gobys.
My worry about moving the clowns back to the main display is that they may possibly transport whatever the hippo has into the main display. If one fish is infected, I have always treated it as all fish are infected. Not doing so has cost me dearly in the past.
The area of West Virginia that I live in is very limited as far as the salt water hobby goes. Needless to say there’s not a lot of choice when it comes to good food selection. Would you have any recommendations on what I should be looking for?
Your QT comments and saying that you were attentive about that led me in the direction of HLLE, environment, and nutrition. Parasites, and most other diseases will be picked up in QT before fish get to the display. The erosion along the lateral line of the hippo is the pattern of HLLE, but HLLE can also develop anywhere on the fish's body. It's common for fish suffering from HLLE to also contract secondary infections, such as bacteria and fungus, in areas where the HLLE appears because those areas are obviously compromised. Additionally, none of the treatments you've mentioned have done any good. Another indicator that the problem is not really parasites.
All I can tell you is that brine shrimp should be off the table as a mainstay in fish diet. It offers little nutritional value. Occasional feedings (because fish like it and gobble it up) offered as a treat would be my only suggestion with that. Any food can be made smaller. If you can not get a variety of quality frozen foods sold in the hobby that you can get at most pet shops selling fish, then I would suggest making your own food. That will entail getting a variety of what is offered at the grocery store fresh seafood counter, or wherever you get fresh fish food. Use a small food processor ($15) which you can also get at the local grocery store, or Walmart and mix. Roll out the mixture into a square, about 1/2" high, wrap/ziplock, freeze. When you are ready to feed your fish you can cut off a bit as needed, defrost in a cup of salt water for a couple of mins, then in the tank it goes. This does not need to be large quantities of foods that are expensive. A few uncooked marine shrimp, mussels, clams, etc. You can even find some decent frozen at the grocery store but that can not be precooked and should not be seasoned whatsoever. I never much used dried fish foods, except for algae, but others here may have some good suggestions for you about that. (Bold that to see if others may pick up on this and make suggestions.)Quality dry foods will give you the advantage of getting good foods via internet purchase. I would make food a priority along with the selcon or zoecon.
As for water mix, I'd suggest that you not use the airstone. You won't get a good enough mix which could result in undissolved salt getting into your aquaria as well as inaccurate test results for pH and salinity. Get a small powerhead, mix for at least 24 hrs, 48 is better, then test salinity and pH. Are you using a refractometer to test salinity/specific gravity? I'd recommend that highly. Other methods not so accurate.
Leave clowns if you feel more comfortable for now at least.
I do feed mine Hikari pellets. Not as a primary food but once a week or so. This way I know they will eat it. I use an auto feeder if I am on vacation. I always know the fish will it the pellets when necessary.
Otherwise I feed a mix of frozen food. Emerald entre, spiraling brine, mysis, whatever I can find locally and I mix it up one kind one day another the next. My favorite fish store closed recently but BRS is local for me so I think I will order some from them. I also feed algae sheets, my blue tang and flame angel love it. My fire fish has no problems with regular food like mysis. He is a bit of a pig.