Need help with durso standpipe question

matt2364

Member
Just built a durso standpipe that is in the box on the back of my tank. I have a lifereef overflow box. Whenever I turn the pump on, the overflow cannot keep up with the pump anymore. I used the same size piping and everything as before...not sure what is going on.
The only thing that is different on my durso is I do not have the cap on top yet with the holes in it. My friend has my drill right now, so I cannot drill the holes. Will this cap with the holes make a difference? Maybe the air that comes in sucks the water in faster?
Seems like the syphon on from the overflow box in tank to the box hanging on the back, can not keep up with the pump. The syphon will work fine though, when the stand pipe is not on. I don't think the standpipe is 100% sealed. Is this the problem. At the base where the pipe goes on there is a little leak, could this little leak cause the problem?
Ohh yeah, the PVC pipe I used is 1'' and the bulkhead at the bottom is 1''.

 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
could be a couple things, for one the polytube in the utube is slowing the flow. Sometimes a syphon will be primed and flow, but not to it's full capacity. Gravity has some to do with it. Lowering the water level an inch in the back box will probably help that out. Just cut the dorso down a tad.
The leak is not the problem, but definetly IS a problem, you need to address it IMO.
 

matt2364

Member
How will the leak effect performance?
Should the syphon be pulling less water since the tube is under more water (end of tube in the back box now has 3-4 inches underwater compared with 1'' before) than before?
I put the cap ontop with out any holes and it seems to be working alot better...It is still not working as well as I would like. The overflow box is almost completely submerged in the water.
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
I said that the leak is not the problem. But you've got silicone on acrylic. It's not going to stop leaking. It's going to get worse. Having a lower water level in the back creates more gravitational pull. Be cause the water falls further, it flows faster, to a point anyways.
 

viper_930

Active Member
Put a bushing right above the bulkhead and make the durso out of 1 1/4" pvc instead. The water flow through the durso gets slowed when using 1" piping.
 

matt2364

Member
I took out the hose, as wattsupdoc recommended and now there is not enough flow from the syphon. Need to drill some wholes in the cap and I think it should work fine then and everything will level out. Thanks for all the help everyone.
Wattsupdoc, I meant a leak in the piping, someone told me it needed to be airtight.
 

matt2364

Member
Alright, I put the cap on and drilled one small hole, I used a 1/16th drill bit. This whole is apparently too big because the water level keeps rising. It happens very slowly, but over a days time the tank would overflow.
I put some tape over the whole halfway and now it would take two days for tank to overflow.
What am I doing wrong here, if I cover the hole completely there is not enought water in overflow box and it starts making a gurgling sound.
ViPeR_930 mentioned using 1 1/4'' PVC pipe, but I do not think my overflow box is big enough to fit that in there with the T and elbow and everything. Could I use 1 1/4'' PVC tube and then back to 1'' for the T and elbow? Would this method work for sure?
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
This sounds backwards to me. making the hole smaller shouldnt make it handle water flow better. It should cause it to surge, making a flushing sound. However, if it's working
then just dial back your retrn pump slightly so it doesnt overrun the OF.
You hasve a ball valve on the return line dont you?
 

matt2364

Member
yes, I do. I would like to have the pump running at full capacity. I just bought the stuff and made a 1 1/4'' stand pipe instead. I will let everyone know how it goes. I am trying to get the righ size hole right now.
 

matt2364

Member
Alright...it runs exactly the same as the 1'' standpipe. Not sure what to do here...
I think I can get it to stabalize, but only when the overflow box is almost entirely full, so it is not skimming the surface very efficiently.
Any ideas? Let me know if you want more info, pictures, etc...
The standpipe is not air tight, will this affect how it operates? If so, what would happen?
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Not being glued wont effect it. I had a similar problem I ended up replacing the U tube with a larger diameter one and it made all the difference. If it's the U tube not keeping up, you can check this by temporarily adding a large ploy tube to the OF parallel to the u tube. Prime it and let it run along with the u tube. Using a larger U tube did the trick for me.
 

matt2364

Member
Thanks for the advice wattsupdoc. I might just have to try using a larger tube. I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks everyone!
 

viper_930

Active Member
Originally Posted by matt2364
http:///forum/post/2530526
ViPeR_930 mentioned using 1 1/4'' PVC pipe, but I do not think my overflow box is big enough to fit that in there with the T and elbow and everything. Could I use 1 1/4'' PVC tube and then back to 1'' for the T and elbow? Would this method work for sure?
Nope. If anything, it should be the opposite - 1 1/4" T and elbow with 1" tube.
Originally Posted by matt2364

http:///forum/post/2530738
Alright...it runs exactly the same as the 1'' standpipe. Not sure what to do here...
I think I can get it to stabalize, but only when the overflow box is almost entirely full, so it is not skimming the surface very efficiently.
So the water level in the overflow is too high? Just lower the standpipe.
 

nel621

Member
I have an overflow box just like yours.I guess you are trying to stop the gurgling sound from the water going down the tube.I made a Stockman stand pipe instead.Works just fine.I don't know what the advantage is with a durso but if you are having trouble with it you may want to try the stockman.Google stockman stand pipe or check the r e e f c e n t r a l s i t e .
 
Top