need help with float switch for water top off

[bbreaux1]

ok i got my gascan with all my tubes and all set up and i tried it out with an old airpump i had sitting around and it worked im gonna get a new airpump might be alittle quieter the one i have is about 10yrs old but i need help on the float swithc and how to wire it if i have to? do they make float switches premade with the cord and plug and all or do i have to wire it myself and how do i wire it any help would be appreciated that <img src="graemlins//confused2.gif" border="0" alt="[confused2]" />

 

[save a fish, eat chicken]

<a href="http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?site=http%3A%2F%2Flivinglava.com%2Fdiy_float_switch.htm" target="_blank">float switch</a>
I bought one, but here is how to make it.

 

[bbreaux1]

yeah ive seen that one i was hoping for something else also how much did you pay for yours???

 

[bbreaux1]

also what is the perpose of the relay? sorry havent learned too much electrical stuff yet

 

[chocochipper]

Save your money on the relay and transformer. Just get a float sw. with contacts that can handle the pumps amperage.

 

[bbreaux1]

so do i just connect the three back wires and then three white from switch,powercord,airpump and that will do it ? i know a few basics just not many taking circuits next semester though so that might help some

 

[sweetjesus]

go to <a href="http://www.grainger.com" target="_blank">www.grainger.com</a>
order part number 2a554. a float switch, acts like the on and off switch, buy a $1.50 extension cord, wire the switch into it, plug pump in the end of the extension cord. for less than $10.00 you have an awesome, severly sensitive float switch.

 

[save a fish, eat chicken]

wire the switch into it, <hr></blockquote>
It's this part that people have trouble with, that is the purpose of the relay, the switch closes the circuit, energizing the relay, allowing current to pass through to the pump.
The link I posted above has a good description of how relays work.
I bought one for $35, they are on ---- all the time.

 

[bbreaux1]

ok so how am i suppose to get the part from grainger it says they only sell to other busnesses not to individual consumers also i went to lowes and hd and neither had a float switch anyone else got some ideas

 

[chocochipper]

black wire (hot) from cord to one wire of float sw.
other wire on float sw. to black wire (hot) on pump.
white wire (neutral) from cord to white wire (neutral) on pump.
no relay needed.
As far as ordering from grainger goes I haven't so I can't help you there. Isn't there any electric supply stores around you to go shopping at?

 

[luke]

<a href="http://www.mcmaster.com/" target="_blank">http://www.mcmaster.com/</a> Search liquid level switch. They will sell to anyone with a credit card. Madison makes a good food grade one that I have had for two years now. (about 12 bucks)
Take an extension cord: Cut into one wire wire the float leads into to each side of that wire. You now have a great switch.
Luke

 

[save a fish, eat chicken]

You might want to read your homeowners policy and see if that fire will be covered.
I am way too safety minded to do it that way, especially where electricity meets water.
You at least have everything in plugged into a GFCI outlet right?

 

[luke]

Save a fish, eat chicken - Although fire is a possibility (it always is). You have pumps, heaters, & lights all running in and around the tank too. The floatswitches are completle water tight. Then they screw into a PVC pipe to run the wires away from the tank. I have mine come down a PVC pipe to the water. All the wiring is far away from the tank with my ballast.
Obviously any of these devices can break and start a fire, But I don't think that a properly wired float switch is any more (or less) likely then anything else.
I do, however, agree that all tanks should be plugged into a GFI circuit. Esspecially when a GFI outlet only costs 20$. I learned this the hard way when I spilled some water on a non GFI outlet moving a tank, and almost started a fire. Now my tank is on a GFI outlet. Although when I had a pump fail and overheat melting the wiring it did not trip (nor did it start a fire)... go figure.
Luke

 

[chocochipper]

save a chicken, just how are these other ways more probable of starting a fire than your way? I don't see how your way is any safer, simply because it is not. I'm curious as to why you think this way.

 

[luke]

chocochipper - I realize I am answering for someone else The relay allows the float switch to run on 12v DC current rather than 120 v AC. This makes it less prone to fires. But I personally think either way is not very prone to fires.
Luke

 

[broomer5]

You can get small icecube relays that will make or break the 120/60 circuit to run the pump, when the float switch itself makes and breaks - without a need for ANY voltage/current going to the float switch. These small relays work off of continuity only, and are only looking for an external dry contact closure ( in this case the float switch ).
These are ideal to use in many applications - but are a little costly.
Most "quality" electrical equipment, heaters, powerheads, etc .. use "potted" electrical conntections - and for the most part are completely water tight - although sometimes there are problems - rare though.
If you wire up the float switch to an extension cord, as Luke mentioned - and chocochipper wiring detail - AND you use standard electrical installation precautions - a float switch wired directly to 120/60 circuit can indeed be considered safe. Conduit connections with watertight seals, proper gauge wire for the load, and buy a quality switch from the get go -no problem.
Taking short cuts, exposed wires, not using a GFI as mentioned - are obviously not using good judgement. The risk of electrocution is always present around our tanks.

 

[bbreaux1]

well i have everything on gfi outlets and im very careful when i work with wires not to leave anything exposed i plan on sealing up any connections i make like that near an aquarium in a few ways just so if one fails its still sealed
last thing i need is a fire burning up the house and boiling my fish

 

[save a fish, eat chicken]

The thing that I see being dangerous is telling people to cut into an extension cord and splice in a switch. I am picturing someone stripping back the wire, twisting them together and wrapping it with elecrical tape or wire nuts.
If you want to use this method maybe look into heat shrink tubing, or weather proof connectors.

 

[chocochipper]

I think I'm understanding your concern now save a chicken, but I assume when someone is going to do an electrical project with there fish tank that they use some common sense when wiring it all together and they have some basic knowledge of electricity. Like not taping there wire connections together with magic tape and being submersed in water or what not. The cord on the float sw. and pump should be long enough to keep it well away from the water where the connections are being made.

 

[squidworth]

Sweet, someone saying go to grainger. I work at a grainger store, I dont think you can order from Grainger.com without an account. If you look up the graiger in your local neighborhood you can probably get it over the counter without an account.