Need RED SLIME REMOVER>>>>>
- Thread starter bigred
- Start date
ryebread
Active Member
I just did an experiment where I had a low flow area in the tank...........red slime soon followed and I simply made sure that there was good water flow all around the tank and poof..........no more red slime.
Do you have a powerhead or two that you can point at the "infected" area? Red Slime Remover can cause harm to your corals I believe.
Do you have a powerhead or two that you can point at the "infected" area? Red Slime Remover can cause harm to your corals I believe.
bigred
Member
I read the description of the red slime remove and they said it's safe for reefs. The tanks have pletty of current. The 180 is a FOWLR, 55 is a reef, and the 112 is a reef. It's not so bad in the 112, but I'm getting a bad brown powder algea growing. I think I'm finally get that under control. I've heard of alot of people using it and it was gone in a week. Also it is in areas where the powerheads are hitting.
phoenixrising
Member
Problem with using a product like Red Slime Remover (which does indeed work) is that if the cause is not eliminated, the slime will return. I did this once and was amazed at the speed with which the slime disappeared. Didn't seem to affect my corals at all. I was equally amazed at the speed with which the slime reappeared. I made other changes and it slowly but surely eliminated the problem for good.
If you decide to go for it, look online on most any SWF site if they have a dry goods section and it can be found there. Check this site first as I think I remember seeing it there once.
Good luck.
If you decide to go for it, look online on most any SWF site if they have a dry goods section and it can be found there. Check this site first as I think I remember seeing it there once.
Good luck.
phoenixrising
Member
Originally posted by laudluvr
Ok, now what is the source of the problem? Is it any one thing or multiple things?
Landluvr--this was posted by SammyStingray recently on another thread. Do a quick search of this forum and you will come up with tons of info on the subject. He states it well and so does another post written by SPSfreak100 which is written from a different angle in the same thread.
SammyStingray writes:
Water movement is the number one factor in my opinion......cyanobacteria simply has a VERY hard time staying alive in oxygen rich water with good flow. Cyano must reach anaerobic levels to live ......AKA "the almost complete lack of oxygen". Good water movement also has a VERY negative effect on hair algae as well. Tanks with high oxygen levels usually require several (not one or two) powerheads strategically placed........algaes give off oxygen as waste...... they don't like it.
I use two over the back filter that have no media or filters, just empty for surface movement at 400 GPH each (I like these because although the tubes may be considered unsightly, they draw water from behind the rocks and circulate it to the top), two powerheads midway down at 400 GPH each, one across the substrate at 300 GPH, but it doesn't seem like it, and I use an add-on piece to keep it slightly above the sand so it doesn't blow, and finally a mag return pump at around 700 gallons per hour blowing behind the rocks. At best I get a green dusting on the glass, but no hair algae to speak of, and no cyano at all. I haven't even seen a snail on a rock in over a year, and still nothing really.
Nutrient pockets from waste and food falling to the substrate seems to be an issue in many tanks with cyano....mostly because it takes a lot of effort to get water movement on the sand without it blowing everywhere, but good live sand with tons of critters that live off this stuff, and good flow so that everything doesn't just settle on the sand makes a big difference. Just my thoughts......algae hates good flow with plenty of oxygen, but everything else loves it..........the zooxanthellae algae that lives in coral and anemone tissue lives there for good reason.......it doesn't have to deal with high oxygen.....
Cyano bacteria lives inside of just about every land and water "plant" on earth, comes in many colors, and is the oldest living organism ever found on earth......many think it was the very first life on earth, but it doesn't have to live on your sand. Check it out while you do have it......it is the oldest lifeform ever found to exist on planet earth.......kind of cool to look at it and know that.
Ok, now what is the source of the problem? Is it any one thing or multiple things?
Landluvr--this was posted by SammyStingray recently on another thread. Do a quick search of this forum and you will come up with tons of info on the subject. He states it well and so does another post written by SPSfreak100 which is written from a different angle in the same thread.
SammyStingray writes:
Water movement is the number one factor in my opinion......cyanobacteria simply has a VERY hard time staying alive in oxygen rich water with good flow. Cyano must reach anaerobic levels to live ......AKA "the almost complete lack of oxygen". Good water movement also has a VERY negative effect on hair algae as well. Tanks with high oxygen levels usually require several (not one or two) powerheads strategically placed........algaes give off oxygen as waste...... they don't like it.
I use two over the back filter that have no media or filters, just empty for surface movement at 400 GPH each (I like these because although the tubes may be considered unsightly, they draw water from behind the rocks and circulate it to the top), two powerheads midway down at 400 GPH each, one across the substrate at 300 GPH, but it doesn't seem like it, and I use an add-on piece to keep it slightly above the sand so it doesn't blow, and finally a mag return pump at around 700 gallons per hour blowing behind the rocks. At best I get a green dusting on the glass, but no hair algae to speak of, and no cyano at all. I haven't even seen a snail on a rock in over a year, and still nothing really.
Nutrient pockets from waste and food falling to the substrate seems to be an issue in many tanks with cyano....mostly because it takes a lot of effort to get water movement on the sand without it blowing everywhere, but good live sand with tons of critters that live off this stuff, and good flow so that everything doesn't just settle on the sand makes a big difference. Just my thoughts......algae hates good flow with plenty of oxygen, but everything else loves it..........the zooxanthellae algae that lives in coral and anemone tissue lives there for good reason.......it doesn't have to deal with high oxygen.....
Cyano bacteria lives inside of just about every land and water "plant" on earth, comes in many colors, and is the oldest living organism ever found on earth......many think it was the very first life on earth, but it doesn't have to live on your sand. Check it out while you do have it......it is the oldest lifeform ever found to exist on planet earth.......kind of cool to look at it and know that.
bigmac
Member
Originally posted by Bigred
I found out you can't purchase this here in California. I need to get some of this because I'm having a problem with this in all three of my tanks. Can someone help me with this?
I don't think that's the case unless things have changed in the past year. I bought some last year.
justinx
Active Member
Was that . . .why yes . . . I think it was . . . I did I did see a BigMac!!! (welcome back!)
Anyway, back to the original topic, I wrote a pretty detailed post a while back entitled "how to rid your tank of red slime" or some variant there of. I did quite a bit of research on this, and am speaking from experience. Do a search for that. It has ALL the info you need on the chemicals, causes, solutions, etc.
HTH
Justin
Anyway, back to the original topic, I wrote a pretty detailed post a while back entitled "how to rid your tank of red slime" or some variant there of. I did quite a bit of research on this, and am speaking from experience. Do a search for that. It has ALL the info you need on the chemicals, causes, solutions, etc.
HTH
Justin
bigred
Member
OK, I tried more current in the tank and adding more oxygen with opening up my protien skimmer and it is still coming back! What else can I do? I have a bowl full of this ---- that I've pulled out and it keeps growing. Just to let you know it is a 55 gal with 2 402, 1 302, and another moving type of powerhead for circulation.
phoenixrising
Member
Poor plan.
Contraindicated in reefs, tanks with inverts, tanks with live rock and/or live sand.
Nope. Better to find a different way. ALWAYS a bad plan to start dumping stuff into your tank. It usually produces disasterous results. Patience, patience, patience. It won't go away over night. Patience.....
Contraindicated in reefs, tanks with inverts, tanks with live rock and/or live sand.
Nope. Better to find a different way. ALWAYS a bad plan to start dumping stuff into your tank. It usually produces disasterous results. Patience, patience, patience. It won't go away over night. Patience.....
dive1
Member
Red Slime algae is really bacteria (cyanobacteria). This is not caused by phosphates. The natural way of ridding the tank of this is to first skim off as much as you can. Then do a 50% water change. Several smaller water changes will not work. You will never get the bacteria down low enough to catch up.. I expect the tank is less that a yr old and I has not matured all the way yet.. After the water change cut lights back to 4hrs a day for 4-5days then start bringing the lights up 1hr a day till back to normal. Also cut back on feeding some. Another suggestion is make sure you have a deep sand bed of at least 3-4in. This will let enough good bacteria grow to help prevent this problem..If you just cannot wait You can use a product called chemi-clean by boyd enterproses, inc... you can do a search on the internet for thier phone # or where to purchase. After using wait 2days then do the water change...Their are no short cuts...good luck...
If your tank has 100gal and 50ppm nitrates, a 10gal water change has the following affect:
50-5=45ppm
45-4.5=40.5ppm
40.5-4.1=35.9ppm
35.9-3.9=32ppm
32-3.2=27.9ppm
27.9-2.8=25.1ppm
This example shows thatitrates are continously it would take over a week to reduce the concentration of pollution in your tank 50% with such small water changes.
This doen't take into account that nitrates are countinuously added to the tank via waste coversion.
You need to do a 50gal. water change to be effective and add a DSB to prevent further nitrate buildup naturally.
If your tank has 100gal and 50ppm nitrates, a 10gal water change has the following affect:
50-5=45ppm
45-4.5=40.5ppm
40.5-4.1=35.9ppm
35.9-3.9=32ppm
32-3.2=27.9ppm
27.9-2.8=25.1ppm
This example shows thatitrates are continously it would take over a week to reduce the concentration of pollution in your tank 50% with such small water changes.
This doen't take into account that nitrates are countinuously added to the tank via waste coversion.
You need to do a 50gal. water change to be effective and add a DSB to prevent further nitrate buildup naturally.
phoenixrising
Member
What "stuff" did you use?