Need to pick your brains

S

smartorl

Guest
I have a friend who has a reef tank established for close to two years. The tank is very stable, everything thriving and then in the last few weeks there have been staggering losses. It started with zoos but has moved into his brains. Water parameters are checked ad naseum, all seems to be normal. No changes in routine, the same wc schedule, temp steady, usual additives and supplements.
The problem is that there seems to be clumpy brown patches around the zoos and then they die, the brains are pulling away and dying slowly but surely.
He is going to try an iodine dip on the corals tomorrow. Any suggestions, thoughts, shots in the dark? Our LFS has been out to his house several times and they have gone over everything but can't get to the bottom of the problem. He is getting really frustrated and stressing out so any advice would be welcomed.
 
S

smartorl

Guest
Bump, I just saw a post about a brain that looks alot like my friends. It was advised that it could be bacterial or fungal, is that a possibility in my case and if so, how do you get a diagnosis and how do you treat?
 

reefkprz

Active Member
A picture would help but it sounds like brown jelly disease, which can effect one coral or wipe out an entire tank.
below the line is not my writing but I hope it helps

[hr]
What we are talking about here, is bacterial disease. The brown filaments, or masses floating over and above a coral, are sure signs of it. They tend to develop slowly and then suddenly, one morning, there is a whole amount of it.
Often it is brownish and somewhat transparent. It can easily be mistaken for algae growing "on" the coral when it first starts. It is not.
Brown jelly disease, as it is sometimes called, is a very serious matter and, if not dealt with immediately will result in progressively more and more loss of tissue and eventually the loss of your coral.
One method we can implement to minimize damage to corals is to ensure that all of them receive good water current flow over their bodies (polyps) and that the flow is uneven. Laminar current is not really what you want.
Irregular water motion is better and cleans the coral better. This often prevents bacterial infections and the ensuing bacterial disease and the associated degradation of the coral from even starting.
Potential Causes
Corals are in an environment of real low water quality parameters:
High levels of total nitrate are often an indication that the water quality is low and may lead to the start of bacterial disease.
Total nitrate is calculated by taking the nitrogen-nitrate reading your test gave you, and multiplying that number by 4.4. Note that most tests on the market give results in N-NO3 and not in "total" nitrate. Normally the instructions that come with the test will say so. Some do not. If you are unsure about what your test really measures, you can always resort to calling the manufacturer.
When your N-NO3 level is high, e.g. between 60 and 80 ppm, your real nitrate level (total nitrate) is really between 260 and 350 ppm.
This is extremely high, and sure to endanger your corals and your fish as well. High phosphate levels may contribute to this too, as they will result in wild, and sometimes totally unexpected, growths of undesirable micro-algae. These can, and often do, grow on the corals skeleton(s) and may start affecting the polyp too if the growth continues. Remember that some algae give off toxins (releasing them on the coral polyp if that is where the algae growth is occuring).
High silicate and silicic acid levels (ppm) give rise to the appearance of diatoms (hobbyists refer to them as brown algae). This can affect the corals too and often does (see below).
The real danger lurks when encrusting diatoms start to grow on the skeleton of the coral, start moving upwards along the skeleton, reach the polyp, and start pushing the polyp out of the way.
When this happens, the polyp detaches from the exoskeleton and loose fringes of polyp are/may become visible. Sometimes these polyps die off and holes or bare patches on the skeleton (missing tentacles of the polyp) are clear evidence that this is what is going on.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
When a coral is infected you can try the following method:
Remove the brown slime stringy material (you can often siphon most of it out). Do this while the coral is still in the aquarium. Hold the siphon an inch or so away from the slime and start the siphon. Dump whatever you siphon out into a bucket. Do not reuse the water in that bucket. It is laden with elements and chemicals you do not want back in your tank, besides the slime that you removed and that you do not want in the tank either. Note that sometimes you need to siphon this off several times, hours apart or on consecutive days. Slime may reappear and needs to be removed.
Dip the affected area in water for about 3 to 4 minutes. You need to use saltwater and add iodine to the water to kill off the bacterial disease. How much iodine you add depends on the strength of the product you use. Some brands are 2 % solutions, others are 5 % and others yet are much stronger, 10 %. Of course Lugol's is even stronger and can be used as well. 10 to 20 drops of a 5 % solution to a 3 gallon bucket is what is usually recommended but it is best to check with someone in the know.
Note that overdosing on iodine can be a reason for bleaching (personal comm. Bruce Carlson) and only increases the problem. Dose the water correctly.
The best is to start with 10 drops of a 10 percent solution and repeat the bath a few times over a period of several hours. This will usually take care of the problem.
Another method is the use of chloramphenicol (if you can get it as it requires you to have an MD prescription. This method is the one suggested by Dr. Bingman.
Note that a more detailed article on bacterial disease will be added to the NetClub™ library.
Vitamin C treatment (as described below) is recommended as well. Read the articles on Vitamin C on our web site to find out how to use this method and how to dose.
Clean the affected area with a real soft brush wiping any brownish material you see off the coral.
Rub some powdered Vitamin C on the affected area. Hold the coral out of the water for a minute or two to let the C work its way into the wound or sore.
Treat the entire tank with Vitamin C at the therapeutic dosages recommend in the Vitamin C documents in the TT Web site Library. Both gives complete details on how to use vitamin C and what kind you need. See below for a link to the Libray.
Keep treating the tank with vitamin C for at least 14 days. This is most important if you want to achieve the results you need to achieve: healing of the coral and eventual regrowth of the polyp in most cases.
Aim good and strong water current at the coral's affected area so it does not become reinfected. There are no guarantees but, the use of Vitamin C will, in the majority of cases, prevent reinfection based on my long time experience with using C in high dosages.
©, Albert J. Thiel, 1997
 
S

smartorl

Guest
Thank you so much! That fits in with what is going on for sure! Thanks, thanks, thanks! Now he has a direction to go!
 
Top