New 230 gal reef build

spiked09

spiked09

Member
I am just starting a new 230 gallon reef. I should be picking up the tank in 2 weeks. I am just working on the stand now.
Say goodbye to the China cabinet (YES! :mrgreen:)

Figuring out the footprint.


Checking the wall for hidden obstacles.

The wife's fears realized! She knows there is no turning back now.

Center support loose fitted. I had to cut out a 2x4 from the wall so I am figuring out the best way to re-direct the load.

There will be another 4x4 inside the wall directly behind the first one, below the 2x6. The 4x4's will not sit side by side in the final assembly, probaby 2 inches apart in order to hit the floor joists properly.

Here is a rough drawing of how the joists run under the tank.

Here I am marking the exact location of the joists.

I then transferred the lines to the pond liner I am using to protect the hardwood.

I should have most of the framing for the stand done tonight.
 
spiked09

spiked09

Member
Here are a couple of pics of the 100 gal sump system I setup recently, it's not 100% finsihed yet.


Pics from today.


 
osuaquarist

osuaquarist

Member
Things look good! Is that sump set up in the basement? How strong a pump do you have to use to push that water up?
 
spiked09

spiked09

Member
Originally Posted by OSUaquarist
http:///forum/post/2548436
Things look good! Is that sump set up in the basement? How strong a pump do you have to use to push that water up?
Yes the sump is directly below the new tank site, currently running my 55 gallon display. The return pump is a Reeflo Hammerhead rated for 5800 gph at 0' head height. I am around 13-14 feet in total so I should be between 3600-4200 gph. I will also be using a Mag 12 on a close loop as well. Should be plenty of flow/turnover.
 
spiked09

spiked09

Member
Yes I did. I made it for the system I had in my last house. I was lucky that it fit nicely into the new sump room.
I made it so each outlet has a on/off switch and there is plenty of room for generic timers as well.
I also wired one set of outlets to a float switch located just above the water line in my main tank. So should the water rise the power to those two outlets is cut, shutting my return pump(s) off. One of the few overflow precautions I am taking to make sure water never touches my hardwood.
 
sk8shorty01

sk8shorty01

Active Member
Looks good, keep the pics coming as the updates happen. You seem to have everything planned out very well and are taking your time to make sure everything works how it is supposed to. Good luck!
 
northwestgator

northwestgator

New Member
It looks great. I am thinking and researching a similar tank for myself. I have a couple of comments. Do you know the load factor for your floor? Looking at the drawing I would guess your floor is designed for a dead weight of 65 pounds per square foot or maybe a little more. You should have someone run the calcs. Your tank is going to displace 208-250 pounds per square foot. The concrete wall is a life savor for you but the joists are running parallel to the wall. Therefore your dead weight over the outer two joists is loaded on the beams the joists are hung on in a 12 foot span, not the concrete wall. You may find the joists could bow, flex or at the worst fail if the rating is not high enough, especially if your over the center span of the joists. It appears you could easily provide additional support from underneath with a couple of beams under the joists to the concrete wall if required. Sorry about the ramble but I am working on the same problem myself.
Additionally, I would take up the oak flooring under the tank area. As a solid oak it will shrink, expand and cup from moisture and temp. If the flooring went bad under your tank or in another part of your room, it could travel either way. I would recommend a good underlament such as a 1" plywood to help displace the weight as well.
Good luck, and is your tank glass?
 
spiked09

spiked09

Member
Thanks for your reply. I will be installing a measuring device to record any movement in the trusses below the tank as I fill it over a couple of weeks time. It will work out to 750lbs per joist over a ~ 11' span.
Think of three grown men standing in a line on each truss.
I am not willing to pay the hundreds of dollars it will cost to have a contractor come in and tell me that it won't work but he can make it work for a mere $1000.00.
I have shown my plans to numerous engineers I used to work with, all have assured me that my design is way over built and that I have nothing to worry about. Actually I just got off the phone with one of them because you had me wondering again, and apparently my stand design was the topic of this mornings coffee break, and all the engineers were present.
They are all 100% sure that I have nothing to worry about what so ever. The trusses will deflect some, that is to be expected, but it will not be enough to cause any concern. Due to the fact that my trusses are so large to begin with.
I should point out that this house was way over built to begin with. I have 2 large 20' x 24' rooms with absolutely no bearing walls or telepost under them what so ever. The trusses were designed to take massive loads. I still can't get over the fact that there is absolutely nothing under my 20 x 24 bonus room!! Apparently a previous owner had that entire room filled with books at one time, his own library! Imagine having a house party in that room with 20, 120-200 lb people , which I am sure in it's 20 yr life time it has seen numerous times. All the furniture and the weight of the people! Wow!
I won't lie to you, I am putting all my trust in my engineer buddies. They deal with this type of thing all the time.
Time will tell I guess. LOL Worst case I have to install teleposts below.
By design my stand is built to display the hardwood floor beneath, aside from that I had a hard enough time convincing the wife to do this. So cutting the floor we JUST put in is not an option. I have 6 of the legs on 2x4's to spread the load vertically across two joist.
The entire stand will be sealed around the bottom so water will never get under the wood. I will also have numerous systems in place to deal with possible over flowing, one of which will direct all the water to the basement at a rate much larger then my return pump can even pump. So in theory my floor will never see any water unless the tank burst. Hopefully this will be enough.
I will also have a system in place to deal with the extra humidity.
I appreciate your input, that is why I throw this stuff out there. I certainly don't know everything and love input from others who can see what I have missed or that point out things I just plain didn't realize.
Thanks :), oh and yes it is glass.
 
F

flame hawk

Guest
looks great now thats the way to build a stand to hold some weight looks like you have done your home work hope to see it when done
 
spiked09

spiked09

Member
I think I have finally decided on a plan for the rest of the cabinet. Took some major calculating to get all the dimesions right and have everything balance out. I had to change my original plans because I am going to be building a dry moat around the bottom of tank now to deal with any over flows or leaks.

Pics of the moat to come. I will be building it today.
 
spiked09

spiked09

Member
Originally Posted by flame hawk
http:///forum/post/2554608
looks good what will you build rest of it with
Do you mean the stand or the moat?
The stand will be oak sheeting. The moat is done, I just have to plump in the two drains.
The plywood under the tank will over hang the moat by approx. 1.2 - 2 " as will the counter top. I will be left with a 2" gap all the way around the tank, easily covered with some sort of mesh or gutter gaurd. I haven't decided how I am going to finish that part yet but my worst idea so far will work just fine.
 
hefner413

hefner413

Active Member
I've never seen this mote idea before... many others do this? Pretty awesome idea. I assume the idea is for tank seam failure mainly? Also, where are you going to have the drains go to?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top