reefperson
Member
I am getting a biocube 29 I have a 75 gallon reeftank if I just do a water change and add water from my tank can I add fish write there
New 29 biocube
- Thread starter reefperson
- Start date
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529622
I am getting a biocube 29 I have a 75 gallon reeftank if I just do a water change and add water from my tank can I add fish write there
The water has very little good bacteria in it. The good bacteria is built up on the rock, sand and whatever else is solid in the tank. So to answer your question...No, you can't add old water from an established tank, and think you can add fish right away.
There are no short cuts to setting up a tank, it has to cycle. Set your biocube up the way you want it, toss in a chunk of raw shrimp, use pure ammonia or ghost feed, (don't torture a live fish) to kick start the cycle, and let it do it's thing.
I always just tested only for ammonia at first, and when it reached at least 1.0, I removed the shrimp...I waited for the ammonia to drop to 0 before bothering to test for nitrites (why waste the test kit), once the nitrites dropped to 0, I test for nitrates. I then do a small water change and ghost feed an invisible fish for one more week, and then test for all three, if the ammonia and nitrite are still 0 after that week...I declared the tank cycled and ready for sea life... If nitrates were over 10 I did another good water change.
It's a good time to set up a quarantine tank while the new display is cycling.
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529622
I am getting a biocube 29 I have a 75 gallon reeftank if I just do a water change and add water from my tank can I add fish write there
The water has very little good bacteria in it. The good bacteria is built up on the rock, sand and whatever else is solid in the tank. So to answer your question...No, you can't add old water from an established tank, and think you can add fish right away.
There are no short cuts to setting up a tank, it has to cycle. Set your biocube up the way you want it, toss in a chunk of raw shrimp, use pure ammonia or ghost feed, (don't torture a live fish) to kick start the cycle, and let it do it's thing.
I always just tested only for ammonia at first, and when it reached at least 1.0, I removed the shrimp...I waited for the ammonia to drop to 0 before bothering to test for nitrites (why waste the test kit), once the nitrites dropped to 0, I test for nitrates. I then do a small water change and ghost feed an invisible fish for one more week, and then test for all three, if the ammonia and nitrite are still 0 after that week...I declared the tank cycled and ready for sea life... If nitrates were over 10 I did another good water change.
It's a good time to set up a quarantine tank while the new display is cycling.
reefperson
Member
Also after the tank is cycled can I add 2 clownfish I have in my 75 they are best buds
Will there be any aggression problems in the tank
Will there be any aggression problems in the tank
reefperson
Member
hello
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529636
Also after the tank is cycled can I add 2 clownfish I have in my 75 they are best buds
Will there be any aggression problems in the tank
Hi again....
I'm not on here 24/7 I log on, and go through the new posts, you weren't being ignored.
I'm not sure I understand your question...do you want to add the established clowns to the new system, or more clowns to the old system with the ones you have already? Commas, and question marks helps me, and others, in understanding a sentence. LOL...That's why they are part of our written language. English lesson is now over.
One pair of clownfish per tank, be it a 75g or a 29g. If your clownfish are best buds in the 75g, they will still be friends in a 39g. If you put two new clowns in the 39g, they will get along, there will always be a pecking order, and SW fish establish territory right away. Timing is important to add the more timid type of fish first, so they can establish their territory, and be secure enough to stand up to the more aggressive personalities.
Clownfish are in the damsel family, although USUALLY not as mean. They are not timid fish, they are just small. Clowns can get real nasty toward any critter infringing on their space.
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529636
Also after the tank is cycled can I add 2 clownfish I have in my 75 they are best buds
Will there be any aggression problems in the tank
Hi again....
I'm not on here 24/7 I log on, and go through the new posts, you weren't being ignored.
I'm not sure I understand your question...do you want to add the established clowns to the new system, or more clowns to the old system with the ones you have already? Commas, and question marks helps me, and others, in understanding a sentence. LOL...That's why they are part of our written language. English lesson is now over.
One pair of clownfish per tank, be it a 75g or a 29g. If your clownfish are best buds in the 75g, they will still be friends in a 39g. If you put two new clowns in the 39g, they will get along, there will always be a pecking order, and SW fish establish territory right away. Timing is important to add the more timid type of fish first, so they can establish their territory, and be secure enough to stand up to the more aggressive personalities.
Clownfish are in the damsel family, although USUALLY not as mean. They are not timid fish, they are just small. Clowns can get real nasty toward any critter infringing on their space.
reefperson
Member
How long will the cycle take and I am adding the clownfish from my 75 to my 29
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529674
How long will the cycle take and I am adding the clownfish from my 75 to my 29
Hi,
The cycle is not measured in time. A tank can sit with water in it for a year, and nothing will happen until something is added to start the cycle, then it depends on the hard surfaces the colonies of good bacteria can build on, then it depends on how much ammonia is produced as to how large the colony needs to be....on and on and on.
You measure the cycles progress by doing water tests. To kick start the cycle, toss in a chunk of raw shrimp, or pour pure ammonia (found in any laundry department in a grocery store), or ghost feed an invisible fish. Get the ammonia level at least up to 1.0 You need lab type test kits, not dip sticks, and YOUR OWN kits, not running to the LFS...you need those numbers.
My method:
To start, I always just test ammonia, why waste the test kit? Once ammonia goes from 1.0 (or whatever spike you got) back to 0...THEN I begin testing only for nitrites. When nitrites drop to 0, I test for nitrates. If nitrates are above 20 (usually are at this point) I do a 30% to 50% water change. Then I ghost feed my invisible fish for one more week. Then I retest all three, if after an entire week of adding food, the tank can handle it and still have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite readings, then the tank is ready for that first fish. Never add more then 2 little fish such as clowns, or one fish....DO NOT ADD MORE THEN THAT AT ONE TIME. If nitrates are above 10 I usually do a small water change before adding the first fish. I do water changes once a month afterwards.
Each time you add a critter, the bioload increases, and the tank will take up to 2 weeks to adjust and build enough good bacteria colonies to handle the extra ammonia added from the waste of the new critter. Too much too soon is the main reason new tanks crash.
Setting up a quarantine tank is the best thing to do. That way the QT can be cycling at the same time the display tank does. Add one fish or two little ones such as clowns, at a time to the QT. That way you know if the fish is healthy, and it will help you space the time between adding new critters to the new system.
If you want your water to stay pristine with no phosphates (PO4), or nitrates (NO3) to be concerned about...Macroalgae is magic bullet. Either chaeto or the like in the sump/refugium, or the more decorative stuff in the display. It isn't an instant cure, it takes time because it absorbs the nasty's out of the water and uses it to grow. Once it has grown a bit, trim it back (called harvesting) as you remove the trimmed macros, you export the PO4 and NO3 out of the system. I have been told you can add macros right away, even as the tank cycles, and helps with that...I have never done that, but it makes sense. Macroalgae absorbs ammonia and nitrites too.
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529674
How long will the cycle take and I am adding the clownfish from my 75 to my 29
Hi,
The cycle is not measured in time. A tank can sit with water in it for a year, and nothing will happen until something is added to start the cycle, then it depends on the hard surfaces the colonies of good bacteria can build on, then it depends on how much ammonia is produced as to how large the colony needs to be....on and on and on.
You measure the cycles progress by doing water tests. To kick start the cycle, toss in a chunk of raw shrimp, or pour pure ammonia (found in any laundry department in a grocery store), or ghost feed an invisible fish. Get the ammonia level at least up to 1.0 You need lab type test kits, not dip sticks, and YOUR OWN kits, not running to the LFS...you need those numbers.
My method:
To start, I always just test ammonia, why waste the test kit? Once ammonia goes from 1.0 (or whatever spike you got) back to 0...THEN I begin testing only for nitrites. When nitrites drop to 0, I test for nitrates. If nitrates are above 20 (usually are at this point) I do a 30% to 50% water change. Then I ghost feed my invisible fish for one more week. Then I retest all three, if after an entire week of adding food, the tank can handle it and still have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite readings, then the tank is ready for that first fish. Never add more then 2 little fish such as clowns, or one fish....DO NOT ADD MORE THEN THAT AT ONE TIME. If nitrates are above 10 I usually do a small water change before adding the first fish. I do water changes once a month afterwards.
Each time you add a critter, the bioload increases, and the tank will take up to 2 weeks to adjust and build enough good bacteria colonies to handle the extra ammonia added from the waste of the new critter. Too much too soon is the main reason new tanks crash.
Setting up a quarantine tank is the best thing to do. That way the QT can be cycling at the same time the display tank does. Add one fish or two little ones such as clowns, at a time to the QT. That way you know if the fish is healthy, and it will help you space the time between adding new critters to the new system.
If you want your water to stay pristine with no phosphates (PO4), or nitrates (NO3) to be concerned about...Macroalgae is magic bullet. Either chaeto or the like in the sump/refugium, or the more decorative stuff in the display. It isn't an instant cure, it takes time because it absorbs the nasty's out of the water and uses it to grow. Once it has grown a bit, trim it back (called harvesting) as you remove the trimmed macros, you export the PO4 and NO3 out of the system. I have been told you can add macros right away, even as the tank cycles, and helps with that...I have never done that, but it makes sense. Macroalgae absorbs ammonia and nitrites too.
reefperson
Member
i am going to see the tank today and wanted your opinion the hqi or regular biocube also do i add rock slowley or just dump it all in
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529837
i am going to see the tank today and wanted your opinion the hqi or regular biocube also do i add rock slowley or just dump it all in
Hi,
You add your rock first, (all at once) and sand is placed around it (You can't build on shifting sand, it can cause a rock slide...breaking the tank or crushing a critter) Stack the rock 1/2 way up the tank and leave the front and sides with at least enough space to allow a mag-float to clean the glass. You still want your fish to be able to swim, so don't over do it. Making a few caves to swim in and out of will keep your fish happy.
The HQI is designed for corals, and the regular is for fish only systems. Personally, I would go with the HQI, that way you won't be limited, perhaps some day you may want an anemone or try some color for the tank with corals, they are easier to keep then you think. What you think you want today is different then what you may decide on later, and upgrades are expensive.
Originally Posted by reefperson http:///t/396217/new-29-biocube#post_3529837
i am going to see the tank today and wanted your opinion the hqi or regular biocube also do i add rock slowley or just dump it all in
Hi,
You add your rock first, (all at once) and sand is placed around it (You can't build on shifting sand, it can cause a rock slide...breaking the tank or crushing a critter) Stack the rock 1/2 way up the tank and leave the front and sides with at least enough space to allow a mag-float to clean the glass. You still want your fish to be able to swim, so don't over do it. Making a few caves to swim in and out of will keep your fish happy.
The HQI is designed for corals, and the regular is for fish only systems. Personally, I would go with the HQI, that way you won't be limited, perhaps some day you may want an anemone or try some color for the tank with corals, they are easier to keep then you think. What you think you want today is different then what you may decide on later, and upgrades are expensive.
reefperson
Member
i know i have 75 reef tank