New additions and some old stuff as well

maxalmon

Active Member
My Tangerine micros!....I love these guys, the color is intense and even though they are small the amount of color is incredible, the green is almost a neon sea-foam green that looks fake, weird thing is that some are almost pure green and white and some are green and orange, I've got one polyp i've got my eye on that is green with white radial spires, thats gota be a first.
 

maxalmon

Active Member
These guys I've been playing around with tank placement and have found that the blue color becomes ultra intense when place almost at the top of the water line which is almost counter to the rule for blue colored zoas as most like to be at the bottom of the tank for the blue color, more to come on this one
 

maxalmon

Active Member
This guy is literally placed as far to the top as I came go without him being out of the water, I really like the reflection
 

maxalmon

Active Member
I've been kinda obsessing on the details of this little duster for a while, he's really tiny, about half inch across, not really any interesting color but the details are kind neat.
 

maxalmon

Active Member
Thanks guys
THe very last pic was the hardest, took me about 30 pics to capture the details, DOF was the hardest as I had to shoot in f25 and this stupid clown kept swimming in front of the duster...I wanted to taser him
 

paintballer768

Active Member
Originally Posted by maxalmon
http:///forum/post/2493995
Thanks guys
THe very last pic was the hardest, took me about 30 pics to capture the details, DOF was the hardest as I had to shoot in f25 and this stupid clown kept swimming in front of the duster...I wanted to taser him
Dont tase me bro! But in all seriousness, very nice shots. Tangerines are intense!
 

maxalmon

Active Member
Color is a little off, I've been playing around with WB and still have some more tweaking to do with settings
 

maxalmon

Active Member
Going to install the new PS program this weekend, everybody raves about how you can really cleanup images, here is a super blownup image of the above zoa's
 

maxalmon

Active Member
LOL....image quality is not that great, even though I love the new starphire tank, it's a real pain to photograph thru. Most of the best images I take are in my frag tank...
Here's a frag that started off as a single, shredded acan polyp. It was a polyp that got really damaged during fragging and I figured "why not" and see if it would survive (it's on the other side). Now it's grown into 12 polyps, the others are around the front
 

katz

Member
Looks great!
Question for you. What lense are you using? You have the Nikon 40x right?
I can not get any pics to come out right with mine.
Katz
 

maxalmon

Active Member
Took me while to figure out the settings as I thought that I could just point and shoot, farthest thing from the truth......macro mode on the camera is OK, but you'll never capture good images.Best thing to do is go to "A" mode, use MANUAL focus as the autofocus is junk for aquarium photography
My simple rules that I use are:
1) Use a tripod < this is an absolute MUST

2) Use a remote control for the shutter or use the timer button. this is critical
for good quality macro images, sounds kinda trivial, but just the slightest vibration of your finger pressing the shutter release will cause quality issues... I can't stress this enough

3) Clean the aquarium glass on the INSIDE of the tank prior to taking pics
, even though you can't see it
, there is an invisible film of algae on the inside of the tank that will cause focus problem, then clean the outside of the glass. I actually clean the glass several times during shots.
4) Use MANUAL focus!
if the images still are not crisp, consider having yours eyes checked, the lens will compensate for vision issues and the images will be fuzzy. I have my vision checked about every 6 months and I can tell when I need an new RX when the images just don't come out crisp
5) Use "A" Mode not macro
!
6) Press the bottom left hand button once (looks like a nagnifying glass) and it will bring up a screen, then use the thumb dial to change the fstop up or down. The higher the fstop the more depth of field you will have, the lower the fstop (9 or 10) the more focused the the center image will be, but background will be fuzzy. Now, here is where it gets complicated, the higer the fstop, the smaller the shutter opening ( better depth of field) the longer the camera shutter will be open so this is where the tripod and remote shutter come into play as the camera takes much longer to take the photo, just the slightest vibration will cause focus issues.
7) Turn all the pumps and fans off
as just the slighest amount of water movement will cause the polyps to move around and when your camera is taking a while to take the image just a slight movement will cause the image to be out of focus
The 18-55mm lens is OK to use, you'll have decent images but not the best as the optics on the lens are not the best that's why it's called a cheap lens and why the cost of the D40 kit is around $500. When you upgrade your lens you'll find that the Macro lens cost more than the camer body. I use the 105mm Nacro VR lens for 95% of my shots (cost about $700)
Best thing to do is focus the camer on a single polyp that is in focus
, then dial the fstop down to the 4 range, take a pic, then DON"T CHANGE ANYTHING OR MOVE THE CAMERA
. Then press the bottom right buttom and dial the fstop up 1 step, take a pic, then repeat the process untill you at f40 or so. Then download all the pics and pay attention to what each fstop change made in respect to the image. you'll see changes in depth of field focus, the brightness of the image, shifts in color and from there you'll develope a sense of what settings will work with your setup. I hope this helps
 
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