new bta need help

camillo

Member
ive jus gotten a bta. its my first anenome and it was on sale at an aquarium that was closing down. it wasnt the best looking bta, but they were half price and ive been think of getting one ever since my tank turned 6 months old. i put it in today and placed it on the sand bottom, it opened up after an hour, but it hasnt moved anywhere and it looks very weak. the tenticles are floppy and while some look nice and full with big bubbled tips, others are flimsy and skinny. its a piny colour with purple tips. my clowns have taken no interest in it so far either. i noe its only been a day, but is this normal behaviour for a bta, like does it usually not move around and look floopy like it does now. wat can i do to make it look healthier, and wats the best thing to feed it and how often. i heard that if my clowns take to it i wont need to worry about feeding it, its that true?
 
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thomas712

Guest
Good Day!
My first suggestion would be for you to simply be patient. Its going to take a couple of weeks for your anemone to acclimate itself to its new suroundings. For now you might want to take a look at the invert section of this board and get a proper Identification on it. I'm not sure what piny is but purple tips suggest it might not be a bta, depending on just how purple they are. Eventually if all is right that floopy and lathargic state should go away and it should buck up and do a walk about the tank investigating the conditions of the tank and looking for a good spot for it.
As to feeding there should be some good suggestions in the archive section of the message board, I'll see if its still there.
Just remember that lighting is the best thing for a photosynthetic animal like this. For a BTA a good 4 watts per gallon of VHO would be a good starting point or other qualified lighting.
Thomas
 
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thomas712

Guest
Feeding Your Anemone

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Feeding Your Anemone
Feeding can range from 3 times a week to every 2 weeks. Some aquarists have had success not directly feeding their anemones at all, although the anemones could be catching food meant for fish You can use any of the following types of foods, but remember to try to keep the pieces no larger than the size of the anemones mouth or the size of a pencil eraser.
Mysis shrimp, krill, silversides, clams, scallops, frozen plankton, cyclopeeze, crab, or even some small pieces of fish found at the local meat market. A large bag of peeled and divided shrimp can be obtained from one of the local supermarkets and may last a very long time, and has the advantage of being fit for human consumption. The above foods can usually be sucked up in a turkey baster and gently squeezed into the tentacles surrounding the oral disk, if healthy, hungry and sticky the anemone will grab onto the food and draw it in. In some cases like feeding silversides or krill to carpet anemones you can use a pair of plastic aquarium tongs to place the food into the tentacles of the anemone.
Never use frozen brine shrimp or the dehydrated kind, its nutritional value is almost worthless.
Never force feed your anemone, it will either take in the food or it will not, in some cases it may eject the food after a few hours, do not try to re feed it for a few days, most likely it is simply full and had enough.
Try to remember that most hobbyists will over feed their anemones, imagine what they really would get in the wild. I raise Bubble Tip Anemones and sometimes will go 2 months without having to feed them. Carpet anemones would be a different story, you may still need to feed them on a weekly basis. Over feeding can lead to reduced water quality, particularly around the anemone itself if it expels food often and the food lays idle around the anemones area.
Also remember that feeding is no substitute for improper lighting, it will only delay the inevitable slow starvation in my opinion. The zooxanthellae that lives in the anemone must have light in order to survive and continue its photosynthesis. It is this zooxanthellae that provides the anemone with nutrition.
Liquid foods and target foods may actually be harmful to your anemones directly, and indirectly through degradation of the water quality of the aquarium. I know there are a lot of additives out there that boast that they are ideal for anemones, in my opinion don’t believe it.
You may also try making your own homemade food in an attempt to keep additives and preservatives out of them. This may be one of the best things you can do for both fish and your anemones as well as other inverts.
 

camillo

Member
thanks for the advice, the anenome has moved overnight and now im jus getting worried that its gonna get too close to my corals. i havtn got many corals but it pretty close to my leather and i also got a torch coral. should i be worried and move them, or just leave them as they are, ive heard that anenomes can have a nasty sting.
 
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thomas712

Guest
If its just a bta then leave your other corals alone. I've had about 40 bta's at one time in my 90 gallon along with brain corals, candycanes, different leathers, xenia, frogspawns and montipora cap. Only thing I ever lost was an acropora but I'm not sure that the anemones did it. Those bta's would rest right next to many of those corals. They do stay away from my hydnophora coral as it packs a rather strong punch.
your results of course may be different.
Thomas
 
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