new corals
- Thread starter sparry67
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flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparry67 http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3490900
Do I coral dip a Red Gulf Sea Fan and chili coral when I receive them? thanks!
I have no idea...just saying that, so this post gets bumped to the top so you can get an answer. I know a coral dip will kill a brain coral.
Originally Posted by sparry67 http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3490900
Do I coral dip a Red Gulf Sea Fan and chili coral when I receive them? thanks!
I have no idea...just saying that, so this post gets bumped to the top so you can get an answer. I know a coral dip will kill a brain coral.
flower
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3490965
ALL CORALS should be dipped! In addition to QT.
What coral dip are you using that killed a brain coral? How long did you leave it in the solution? Never lost a coral to a dip.
Lugos or something like that... I followed the instructions. I was told after the 3rd loss to not dip brain corals and that not all corals can be dipped. I was surprised, but since I didn't like killing corals I did as the pros on the site instructed. I pass that on.
I never in 10+ years quarantined a coral or invert. One reason why is that corals require special lighting and no way could I afford two of those light systems. Since corals nor invert carry disease to kill the fish...I never bothered.
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3490965
ALL CORALS should be dipped! In addition to QT.
What coral dip are you using that killed a brain coral? How long did you leave it in the solution? Never lost a coral to a dip.
Lugos or something like that... I followed the instructions. I was told after the 3rd loss to not dip brain corals and that not all corals can be dipped. I was surprised, but since I didn't like killing corals I did as the pros on the site instructed. I pass that on.
I never in 10+ years quarantined a coral or invert. One reason why is that corals require special lighting and no way could I afford two of those light systems. Since corals nor invert carry disease to kill the fish...I never bothered.
novahobbies
Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3490979
Lugos or something like that... I followed the instructions. I was told after the 3rd loss to not dip brain corals and that not all corals can be dipped. I was surprised, but since I didn't like killing corals I did as the pros on the site instructed. I pass that on.
I never in 10+ years quarantined a coral or invert. One reason why is that corals require special lighting and no way could I afford two of those light systems. Since corals nor invert carry disease to kill the fish...I never bothered.
Just so you know, corals and live rock CAN harbor the encysted stage of C, irritans (Marine Ich for our new friends). In fact, this is a major part of how the parasite develops. The cysts (Tomonts) is a reproductive stage that settles on the substrate and can last up to 28 days while the parasites reproduce and grow in numbers. The cyst breaks open after this time period, releasing hundreds of free swimming theronts into the water column to find and attach to a host. This is to say nothing of the larger multicellular hitchhikers like parasitic isopods and even bobbitt worms that can come in on the rock and coral frags...and of course nuisance algae like bubble algae on the rock.
If you want to go full throttle on the prevention wagon, you should always QT your live rock AND corals for a minimum 30 days before adding to the display tank. Now, truthfully........very very few people ever do this. Most people get by with a dip and a prayer, and this usually works. Most fish stores worth their salt (please forgive the terrible pun) keep their corals in separate systems so the threat of Ich cysts is low......but don't ever forget that the possibility of a cyst or two is still there.... cysts can develop for 30 days before releasing their little demons to the water column.
Most coral dips are great for flatworms, bristle worms, pods, etc. They do NOTHING for C. irritans cysts, which are extremely tough little buggers. You CAN perform short freshwater dips for softies, polyps, and LPS corals (don't do this with SPS; they usually don't take it well) for a few minutes, but to be honest the period of time in the FW dip may or may not have enough effect to rupture the cyst wall. Not enough info is known regarding this.
Now that I've depressed you and made you wonder if it's worth keeping coral at all....I fully admit that I do NOT QT coral for that period of time. I dip with Brightwell's or Lugols, and I've done freshwater dips on zoa frags. I DO QT my coral for a short period (week or so) for observational purposes. Its also true that the last coral I bought did in fact go through a full 30 day QT, but this was almost accidental....I was waiting for my tank to cycle.
I know you mentioned the price to buy a light for a coral QT tank. It's not as bad as you think. You can use a 10g tank with a simple filter....since there are no fish to bother with, you won't have to worry about water quality going south as long as you use an established foam biofilter. 10 bucks there. You can also choose two ways of lighting: If you're only qt'ing for a week or so, you can get away with a 2-bulb HO fixture that discount sites sell for 40 bucks. If you want to QT longer, or you're worried about lighting, you can use a 4-bulb fixture from similar discount sites for $55. It's not a tiny sum, but in the long run it might be worth your peace of mind. Totally up to you!
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3490979
Lugos or something like that... I followed the instructions. I was told after the 3rd loss to not dip brain corals and that not all corals can be dipped. I was surprised, but since I didn't like killing corals I did as the pros on the site instructed. I pass that on.
I never in 10+ years quarantined a coral or invert. One reason why is that corals require special lighting and no way could I afford two of those light systems. Since corals nor invert carry disease to kill the fish...I never bothered.
Just so you know, corals and live rock CAN harbor the encysted stage of C, irritans (Marine Ich for our new friends). In fact, this is a major part of how the parasite develops. The cysts (Tomonts) is a reproductive stage that settles on the substrate and can last up to 28 days while the parasites reproduce and grow in numbers. The cyst breaks open after this time period, releasing hundreds of free swimming theronts into the water column to find and attach to a host. This is to say nothing of the larger multicellular hitchhikers like parasitic isopods and even bobbitt worms that can come in on the rock and coral frags...and of course nuisance algae like bubble algae on the rock.
If you want to go full throttle on the prevention wagon, you should always QT your live rock AND corals for a minimum 30 days before adding to the display tank. Now, truthfully........very very few people ever do this. Most people get by with a dip and a prayer, and this usually works. Most fish stores worth their salt (please forgive the terrible pun) keep their corals in separate systems so the threat of Ich cysts is low......but don't ever forget that the possibility of a cyst or two is still there.... cysts can develop for 30 days before releasing their little demons to the water column.
Most coral dips are great for flatworms, bristle worms, pods, etc. They do NOTHING for C. irritans cysts, which are extremely tough little buggers. You CAN perform short freshwater dips for softies, polyps, and LPS corals (don't do this with SPS; they usually don't take it well) for a few minutes, but to be honest the period of time in the FW dip may or may not have enough effect to rupture the cyst wall. Not enough info is known regarding this.
Now that I've depressed you and made you wonder if it's worth keeping coral at all....I fully admit that I do NOT QT coral for that period of time. I dip with Brightwell's or Lugols, and I've done freshwater dips on zoa frags. I DO QT my coral for a short period (week or so) for observational purposes. Its also true that the last coral I bought did in fact go through a full 30 day QT, but this was almost accidental....I was waiting for my tank to cycle.
I know you mentioned the price to buy a light for a coral QT tank. It's not as bad as you think. You can use a 10g tank with a simple filter....since there are no fish to bother with, you won't have to worry about water quality going south as long as you use an established foam biofilter. 10 bucks there. You can also choose two ways of lighting: If you're only qt'ing for a week or so, you can get away with a 2-bulb HO fixture that discount sites sell for 40 bucks. If you want to QT longer, or you're worried about lighting, you can use a 4-bulb fixture from similar discount sites for $55. It's not a tiny sum, but in the long run it might be worth your peace of mind. Totally up to you!
xcali1985
Active Member
The price you pay setting up a QT is made up in the meds that you have to purchase when your tank gets infected.
The truth is that coral dips aren't 100% on all parasites even the ones that are just coral predators.Eggs often survive dips and will hatch in your tank, at that point your in for a battle. In IMHO you need 2 QTs one for fish and 1 for corals.
2 - 10 gallon tanks
1 - Stock Light
1 - 12" Light (HO or other)
2 - Hang on the back filters
2 - Heaters
1 - Bubble Stone w/ Air Pump
Various PVC cuts.
I think you can get most of this for just under 250$. Remember it's cheaper and easier to treat 10 gallons of water than a larger display.
As far as coral dips, I will only use Revive or Coral RX. I have never lost a coral there and I have an extensive list of corals.
The truth is that coral dips aren't 100% on all parasites even the ones that are just coral predators.Eggs often survive dips and will hatch in your tank, at that point your in for a battle. In IMHO you need 2 QTs one for fish and 1 for corals.
2 - 10 gallon tanks
1 - Stock Light
1 - 12" Light (HO or other)
2 - Hang on the back filters
2 - Heaters
1 - Bubble Stone w/ Air Pump
Various PVC cuts.
I think you can get most of this for just under 250$. Remember it's cheaper and easier to treat 10 gallons of water than a larger display.
As far as coral dips, I will only use Revive or Coral RX. I have never lost a coral there and I have an extensive list of corals.
morgan175
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3491018
The price you pay setting up a QT is made up in the meds that you have to purchase when your tank gets infected.
The truth is that coral dips aren't 100% on all parasites even the ones that are just coral predators.Eggs often survive dips and will hatch in your tank, at that point your in for a battle. In IMHO you need 2 QTs one for fish and 1 for corals.
2 - 10 gallon tanks
1 - Stock Light
1 - 12" Light (HO or other)
2 - Hang on the back filters
2 - Heaters
1 - Bubble Stone w/ Air Pump
Various PVC cuts.
I think you can get most of this for just under 250$. Remember it's cheaper and easier to treat 10 gallons of water than a larger display.
As far as coral dips, I will only use Revive or Coral RX. I have never lost a coral there and I have an extensive list of corals.
This is what I have done and am happy. good luck. Extra money now saves it later.
Originally Posted by Xcali1985 http:///t/392839/new-corals#post_3491018
The price you pay setting up a QT is made up in the meds that you have to purchase when your tank gets infected.
The truth is that coral dips aren't 100% on all parasites even the ones that are just coral predators.Eggs often survive dips and will hatch in your tank, at that point your in for a battle. In IMHO you need 2 QTs one for fish and 1 for corals.
2 - 10 gallon tanks
1 - Stock Light
1 - 12" Light (HO or other)
2 - Hang on the back filters
2 - Heaters
1 - Bubble Stone w/ Air Pump
Various PVC cuts.
I think you can get most of this for just under 250$. Remember it's cheaper and easier to treat 10 gallons of water than a larger display.
As far as coral dips, I will only use Revive or Coral RX. I have never lost a coral there and I have an extensive list of corals.
This is what I have done and am happy. good luck. Extra money now saves it later.