New Idea..... maybe

drewsta

Active Member
Ok this design is my idea, does anyone think it will work? Also feel free to chop up my image and add anything you want. I need to know what kind of dividers I need to add in the sump and also how to attach my HOB overflow to my refuge, and also what size pump to push water into the sump area? Thanks in advance :help:
 

tankyou

Member
My first thought is, why do you need the "unknown pump" at all? Why not just syphon? (after you raise the sump to the same level as your fuge so you dont end up with a flood)
 

murph

Active Member
In order to use two separate containers for sump and fuge you will have to add another overflow. The pumps simply wont even out flow for you. This also means the sump will have to be somewhere around 14 inches lower than the fuge to provide room for a hang on OF.
Here is how I would do it if using two separate containers. I assume the 1200 GPH overflow has two one inch drains. This is the common configuration. Direct/plump one drain directly to the fuge and one to the sump. Hang an additional 600 GPH overflow on the fuge that also drains to the sump. Here again your fuge will have to be positioned higher than the sump to allow for hanging on the additional overflow on the fuge and drainage to the sump. You may not have room for all of this especially if the DT is not high enough off the ground. Water runs down hill only.
The other alternative is one larger container with baffles glued in. This limits ability to change things around at a later date if you wish to change the configuration of the compartments.
I prefer to just have as large and open a sump as room allows. You are then free to change things around simply by slideing different size containers down into the sump for a skimmer compartment, fuge, filtration etc. and overflow plumbing can be changed to direct water where ever and whenever you think is needed. Only problem is your going to need plenty of room behind the DT for this type configuration. Probably the best part of the one seen below is any plumbing drips or drissles fall right back into the system makeing it worry free for the most part
 

bojik

Member
You could also put the sump on the other side where the overflow is. And put in a smaller pump to supply the fuge, with an overflow return to sump. That much flow directly into the fuge might disrutupt things dependent on what you want in it. Though there are many ways to do most things.
 
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winstew

Guest
I would have the single line from the overflow come down and then "T". Have the tank setup exactly as you show. From the "T" run pipe through a valve to the fuge part and then run the other side of the "T" to the sump. The valve will allow you to throttle the flow to the fuge and it will overflow to the sump. The sump is lower but will get most of the flow from the overflow, then it gets pumped back up to the DT. You coud even put your skimmer in the "new" sump part............ I SMELL AUTO TOP-OFF.....
 

drewsta

Active Member
Originally Posted by Winstew
I would have the single line from the overflow come down and then "T". Have the tank setup exactly as you show. From the "T" run pipe through a valve to the fuge part and then run the other side of the "T" to the sump. The valve will allow you to throttle the flow to the fuge and it will overflow to the sump. The sump is lower but will get most of the flow from the overflow, then it gets pumped back up to the DT. You coud even put your skimmer in the "new" sump part............ I SMELL AUTO TOP-OFF.....
How hard will this be to get my syphon started and then make sure all valves are right lol I think I might have a flood??? Maybe this is a bad idea :notsure:
 

sebae09

Member
I would go with the bulkhead that way only as much water is going out into the fuge that is going into the sump gravity will take care of it
 
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winstew

Guest
Yea thats what i meant. You come off from your tank (bulkhead) and then come down to a single "T" One side goes into the fuge with a valve and the other free flows to the sump. Gravity will start your siphon, and with any sump you have to have enough head space to store all the water from the piping as well as the difference between the DT and overflow.
 

gen1dustin

Member
What about having a totally different overflow from the display to the fuge. Then the fuge would be drilled on the side & overflow into the sump. This is what I was thinking of possibly doing.
 
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winstew

Guest
That is basically the same idea... just a seperate line for the fuge intake and a little extra piping, but it operates the same you would just need something to control flow from the tank to the fuge( you don't want a lot of flow)
 

drewsta

Active Member
That makes sense that is what I will do thanks for the info now wish me luck so I don't flood my house
 

gen1dustin

Member
Originally Posted by Winstew
That is basically the same idea... just a seperate line for the fuge intake and a little extra piping, but it operates the same you would just need something to control flow from the tank to the fuge( you don't want a lot of flow)
Yeah that's what I was thinking.
 
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winstew

Guest
There is really no advantage to the second way, especially if you tank is allready drilled with 2 overflows. Using one to go to a fuge probably wouldn't be the smartest idea just because you will be severely limiting your turnover rate. just my $.02 though
 

gen1dustin

Member
Originally Posted by Winstew
There is really no advantage to the second way, especially if you tank is allready drilled with 2 overflows. Using one to go to a fuge probably wouldn't be the smartest idea just because you will be severely limiting your turnover rate. just my $.02 though
My only thing with doin it how you said put a T off the display's overflow then from one part of T to fuge & other to sump. I am worried that it would deprive my sump from too much water.
 
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winstew

Guest
Yes thats why you would put a valve on the fuge side. You can throttle the fuge side to a trickle and the rest of the flow would go to the sump
 
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