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robert0606
Guest
Just Bought , What Would Be The Best Food For This Anemone ?
Not To For Sure Lfs Didnt Seem To Knowledgable .
Not To For Sure Lfs Didnt Seem To Knowledgable .
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robert0606
Guest
bump
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robert0606
Guest
thank you , any advice would be appreciated ... i just feed him a piece of krill and he ate it . what about the night ... i mean what about the lighting .? on ? off ? :help:
unleashed
Active Member
hey robert just a few questions for you about your tank set up to be sure you have the best housing for him,sebaes can be one of the hardest species of anenomes to keep alive spiot feeding and good strong lighting and proper water flow are a must too keep this species alive and healthy.(i found this out the hard way) it must be kept under metal halide. only feed him small foods to ensure better digestion.foods best are phlankton,mysis shrimp cycplopseze,krill .other small(chopped meaty foods) fish ,shrimp ect.soaking these foods in selcon will benifit the health of you new anenome.I do reccomend small target feedings daily to your new anenome for the first couple weeks you have him to help improve his health from all the stress cause by new placement and acclimation. I also spot feed mine thera+A pellets by spectrum daily he loves them i have kept mine for almost 2 yrs now but almost lost him after 3 months of him being in my tank it took me 8 months of force feedings to bring him back to health to where he could catch or hold the food himself.lighting time should be supplimental lighting of pc or vho i find they do best in the bluer spectrum of actinics this is a 12 hr day period for lighting time in which should also be under halides i prefer the look of 20 k but 14- 20 k halides is best they do tend to react better under bue lighting.this halid time should be 3-4 hrs daily basicly you peak sunlight hrs of the day i time mine from 12 pm -4 pm x 2 400 w 20 k with supplimental 96 x2 actinic vho.this anenome is known to place himself at the top of your rockwork even under intense lighting.
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robert0606
Guest
wow, thanks . im thinking i might be a little to inexperianced for anemones. my true percula would hang out at top and thats it , was hoping the anemone would get him to explore whole tank . how important is water flow ? my tank is a 50 gal the light set up is 50/50 i belive . {giving to me} .
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thomas712
Guest
Halides are a must with a sebae in most cases. Definitely a delicate animal. I'd suggest looking at some of the old threads by doing a search.
I would address that lighting issue first, however if an upgrade to lighting isn't in the foreseeable future, then perhaps returning the sebae would be in order. I know most folks wouldn't like to hear that but it beats it dieing in your tank and polluting the water. Standard Normal Output lighting will not do for any anemone, you should familiarize yourself with VHO, PC and the MH lighting that is available for the aquarium trade. Bubble tips and the Atlantic Condylactis are two of the lesser light requiring anemones.
If your anywhere close to Midland, MI, I could hook you up with a Bubble Tip anemone easy.
Thomas
I would address that lighting issue first, however if an upgrade to lighting isn't in the foreseeable future, then perhaps returning the sebae would be in order. I know most folks wouldn't like to hear that but it beats it dieing in your tank and polluting the water. Standard Normal Output lighting will not do for any anemone, you should familiarize yourself with VHO, PC and the MH lighting that is available for the aquarium trade. Bubble tips and the Atlantic Condylactis are two of the lesser light requiring anemones.
If your anywhere close to Midland, MI, I could hook you up with a Bubble Tip anemone easy.
Thomas
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robert0606
Guest
hey thanks for the offer, im in dearborn . what are the first signs of sabae slowing dying?
whitey_028
Member
Originally Posted by robert0606
hey thanks for the offer, im in dearborn . what are the first signs of sabae slowing dying?
It might send of its slime coat first...and the tentacles may just not "expand".
hey thanks for the offer, im in dearborn . what are the first signs of sabae slowing dying?
It might send of its slime coat first...and the tentacles may just not "expand".
unleashed
Active Member
Originally Posted by robert0606
hey thanks for the offer, im in dearborn . what are the first signs of sabae slowing dying?
as stated above its not nessesarily a slime coat but more aless the stickyness (stinging cells) tends to become depleted then the animal can no longer feed itself this can be caused by many factors.but if you can easily touch your anenome without the sensation of almost an electrical or staticy feeling on your fingertips your sebae has become weakend this is one of the first signs of poor health along with coloration.bleaching effect they tend to get a pale coloring to them severily bleaches sebaes are white.as for for water flow they tend to like a strong water flow in all directions but not a constant pounding on them.i have kept my one sebae in 3 different sized tanks first being a 120 gal i paced him in the sand bed and he eventually ended up on a top rock just below a return pipe for the water flow about 5-6 inches from the water surface.then i placed him into a 300 gal he did the same thing directly under the halides(400 watts mind you) 5-6 inches from water surface.i moved him to a shallow tank (150) tank is only 18 inches high with 400 w 20 k halides and again on top of the rocks in the strong currant he now reaches about 2 inches from the water surface . also being in dearborn you have a lot of LFS 's some even sell used aquipment you may be able to find a good deal on some used halides .the higher the wattage the better IMO
hey thanks for the offer, im in dearborn . what are the first signs of sabae slowing dying?
as stated above its not nessesarily a slime coat but more aless the stickyness (stinging cells) tends to become depleted then the animal can no longer feed itself this can be caused by many factors.but if you can easily touch your anenome without the sensation of almost an electrical or staticy feeling on your fingertips your sebae has become weakend this is one of the first signs of poor health along with coloration.bleaching effect they tend to get a pale coloring to them severily bleaches sebaes are white.as for for water flow they tend to like a strong water flow in all directions but not a constant pounding on them.i have kept my one sebae in 3 different sized tanks first being a 120 gal i paced him in the sand bed and he eventually ended up on a top rock just below a return pipe for the water flow about 5-6 inches from the water surface.then i placed him into a 300 gal he did the same thing directly under the halides(400 watts mind you) 5-6 inches from water surface.i moved him to a shallow tank (150) tank is only 18 inches high with 400 w 20 k halides and again on top of the rocks in the strong currant he now reaches about 2 inches from the water surface . also being in dearborn you have a lot of LFS 's some even sell used aquipment you may be able to find a good deal on some used halides .the higher the wattage the better IMO
bob_chauvin
New Member
I'm trying to revive my ill seabae. She was delivered Wed am, a beautiful 65deg day in my town.
The tank chemistry "seems" stable, month three. Ph in the safe range, low 8's. Nitrates in the safe zone, 0 Nitrites, Salinity 2.7 @ 70F.
My lighting is not optimal, so I moved her to a floating pod 6" from my VHOs to see if the additional light helps (from what I've read, seabae require tons of light, good water quality, food and love.
Other inverts (turbo snails) from this shipment are sluggish. Three emerald crabs are fine.
The tank chemistry "seems" stable, month three. Ph in the safe range, low 8's. Nitrates in the safe zone, 0 Nitrites, Salinity 2.7 @ 70F.
My lighting is not optimal, so I moved her to a floating pod 6" from my VHOs to see if the additional light helps (from what I've read, seabae require tons of light, good water quality, food and love.
Other inverts (turbo snails) from this shipment are sluggish. Three emerald crabs are fine.
choco
Member
Originally Posted by Thomas712
Halides are a must with a sebae in most cases. Definitely a delicate animal. I'd suggest looking at some of the old threads by doing a search.
T5s work just as effective if you have the individual reflectors and the right bulb combo so the sebae receives an aquedate amount of PAR. My H. Crispa thrives off my T5s.
Halides are a must with a sebae in most cases. Definitely a delicate animal. I'd suggest looking at some of the old threads by doing a search.
T5s work just as effective if you have the individual reflectors and the right bulb combo so the sebae receives an aquedate amount of PAR. My H. Crispa thrives off my T5s.
