new to SW

[autopilot]

I just bought a 55g tank set. I have it filled with my saltwater now. I have a "bakpak" running and 3 bags of 20lbs live sand. I have a hood with just basic lighting not sure how good and a heater set at 79(should I change it?). Its been running for a day now. What should I do now? Should I add anything else or change anything? Or just wait for awhile?

 

[sly]

79 is a good temp. Your SG should be close to 1.023. Your pH should be close to 8.3. Put in a dead frozen shrimp from the grocery store and let it float around for a week or so. This will start your biological filtration cycle. You should have an ammonia spike at first, followed by nitrite, then finally nitrate. Once your ammonia falls to 0 then your tank is mature and is ready for fish. Take out the shrimp if it hasn't decomposed completely, do a water change to clean out your built up nitrates and you're ready. This process takes about a month to occur, sometimes less. Since you added living sand your cycle may only take a couple of weeks. Once you add a few fish wait awhile for the water to adjust to their waste. Monitor your ammonia and let it serve as an indication of having too many fish. If your ammonia rises and will not go back down after a few weeks then you either have too many fish or your bio filter system is too small. Take your pick...
If you add fish and the ammonia stays low, then you should be safe to add a few more as long as you don't overdo it. The "general" rule of thumb is 1 inch of fish per 5 gallons of water.
If you want to add corals later (after 6 months or so) you will need high output lighting. You need at least 4 watts of light per gallon. Power Compacts, Very High Output, and Metal Halides are the lights that provide this. They are usually expensive but necessary for corals.
The key to this is patience. Owning a fish tank is like raising a garden. It takes time, money, and knowledge. Read all over this forum and buy a few aquarium books. If you survive the break in period and don't develop "old tank syndrome" then this could become a hobby that you can enjoy for the rest of your life. :happyfish

 

[dreeves]

Your tank isnt mature because the cycle has completed...before you add any fish...ensure the nitrites are back at 0 and remain there for a few days. Nitrite can be equally as lethal as amonia.
If you put 3 bags of live sand in...chances are it was bio-alive or something similar. If this was the case, it is simply biologically alive sand. Live sand you will more often see referenced is sand from the ocean floor...this sand not only has the biological benefits, but a high diversity of life within it...such as worms, etc.
Live rock would be the next order of the list to add. The live rock, if you order "uncured" would cure in your tank and accomplish the cycle as well.
There is no rule of thumb for fish vs. tank size as mentioned above. One must look at all aspects of each and every specimen they intend to keep. Looking particularly at habitat, feeding, temperment, potential size and equally important, compatibility with other species.
Corals are somewhat difficult to keep for new hobbyst. They require for the most part prestine water which is often times hard to maintain in a new(er) tank...some have difficuly times maintaining proper water chemistry with aged tanks even.
Marine aquaria is an enjoyable, time consuming and expensive hobby...but once a pattern is established, everything else becomes second nature and the benefits of enjoying your enclosed piece of the ocean is bountiful. Knowelde and patience are the two most important elements of success....as mentioned elsewhere on this board...disaster is the only thing which happens fast.
Good luck and enjoy!

 

[sly]

As for the 1inch of fish per 5 gal argument, opinions vary. While it is not scientific it does serve as a general guideline. It is variable to the water conditions and biological load of the system.
What kind of tank are you wanting to set up? FO, FOWLR, Reef? You don't need LR if you have a bio filter system that is mature and able to handle the load of your tank inhabitants. However LR is one of the most efficient and certainly most natural of the bio filtration methods. In the long run if you plan on an extensive tank setup with corals, etc. , LR should definitely be added soon so that it can mature with your tank. But again it is not required.

 

[autopilot]

thanks for the replies. I would like to probably have FOWLR. I llike the way the LR look. The only tester I have is to test the salt water so I guess I need a test for the other things. Would it be good to add the LR right away or wait a few days?

 

[sly]

If your pH is ok and your SG is correct then go ahead and add the LR. The sooner the better. You can also buy some cheap base rock from the LFS also and add it. In a year the base rock will become "living" because the LR organisms will migrate to it and seed it to become living.
Typically you need to check pH, Specific Gravity (disolved salt concentration), Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. You also need to check your alkalinity. This is the measure of dissolved buffers in the water that prevent your pH from suddenly shifting.

 

[autopilot]

I just bought nitrate, nitrite, and ph tests. My LFS didn't have any other tests in stock. I bought some rocks also. The only ones they had where they rocks they keep in their pond display with a lionfish, nurse shark, and eell so they got those rocks out for me. Its something to start with.

 

[dreeves]

There is no argument about the inch per gallon...there is no theory...there is no guideline...some use it in freshwater setups...but it has no place in the marine environment...
As for your testing...you do need the test kits you purchased...and the liverock will not only aid in the biological process of your tank..but will also had a diveristy of life more common in the animals natural environment...
You should also look to order most of your supplies and livestock online...prices are hard to beat when compared to most lfs'. You will also find for the most part fresh test kits, and a wider variety of supplies in which you will need.

 

[sly]

Whatever dude. I'm only quoting Bang Guy and from books I've read pertaining to the 1 inch of fish per 5 gallons of water.

 

[dreeves]

Thats nice...
Here is what you basically informed this new hobbyst...
He can get 3, 3 inch dwarf angels and put them all in one 45 gallon tank...or put them all in one 55 gallon tank and have room for say 2, 3 inch yellow tangs...
Do you see how the inch per gallon stuff doesnt work for saltwater environments?

 

[sly]

Well you can't put any 3 angels in a small tank together. You've got to check the compatibility charts. I don't see why you're so adamant about this. This has never been a fail safe rule. It's simply a general rule for safe handling of the bioload in a system. There's always more to it than just "stick to 1 fish per 5 gallons and you'll be okay". You know, I've heard 3 watts of lights per gallon of water also but small tanks usually need more than this, especially if the tank is deep. But we still have general guidelines that are set that give us a basis to start around. If he finds that his tank can take more (or less) fish than 1 per 5 then more power to him. I would hope that he has more sense than to be so legalistic over a guideline.

 

[dreeves]

You should remember this when you are posting a reply to someone who identifies themselves as new to saltwater....we know, most people do...but not everyone knows about compatibility...
The best course of action one would believe is to advise on specimen needs in an enclosed environment versus how many fish they can have in inches...
As far as legalistic per guidelines...no such thing. Never assume someone knows the little ins and outs of this hobby...not only does this create the potential for inadvertant cruelity for the animals and the keeper....but it is also expensive. Explain in detail for new people...they come here drawing from our knowledge we should provide it to them completely.