nitrates and algea

chief26

Member
my tank has been set up since about feb.
nitrate-100
nitrite-0
alkalinity-180
ph-8.4
calcium-440
I have 1 tomatoe clown
2 snails
1 feather duster
1 mussel
30gallon tank
LR-i forget how many pounds but it was what was recommended from this site when i started covers most of the tank.
good currulation.
help i cant get a handle on the nitrates and i have a wanderful variaty of algea- bubble, hair, something stringy but bristely, something that is red and lays flat, a fern looking one and something that looks like a grape vine with baby grapes and it is light green. is this a normal part of my first year? its pretty but i dont want it to get out of control(algea) i need to get those nitrates down before i can do any coral. right?
 

triggerfre

Member
Have you taken your water to your local fish store to be tested to see if your nitrate test is off. I had a problem with my nitrates being at 180, and come to find out they were fine and my test was bad. And yes you can get some starter corals in your tank even with your nitrates up.
 

kzoo

Member
Man I would not put any coral in if your trates are that high, all you will do is make the coral reacted and let toxins out and will most likely die. I would make sure that your testing equip. is right, that is way high. Does your fish look stressed?
 

poniegirl

Active Member
Water changes for the nitrate issue. The algae is probably so profuse because the nitrates feed the algae.
I had problems, also. I started rinsing the frozen foods before feeding, CUT BACK on the amount of food, and 2 weekly water changes at 20%.
Make sure to keep your filter media CLEAN.
 

scsinet

Active Member
Are you doing any protein skimming? Skimming helps remove DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds) before they break down. Every sizable reef system should have a skimmer.
Also, are you using a canister or wet/dry filter? These can be nitrate factories.
Finally, Do you have any pre filter sponges in your filtration system anywhere? If so, rinse them every few days to keep 'trates from building up.
You can also control them with a chemical suppressant like Seachem Purigen, but that should be a last resort.
 

poniegirl

Active Member

Originally Posted by SCSInet
Are you doing any protein skimming? Skimming helps remove DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds) before they break down. Every sizable reef system should have a skimmer.
Also, are you using a canister or wet/dry filter? These can be nitrate factories.
Finally, Do you have any pre filter sponges in your filtration system anywhere? If so, rinse them every few days to keep 'trates from building up.
You can also control them with a chemical suppressant like Seachem Purigen, but that should be a last resort
.
I agree entirely, all well said.
Try every natural avenue to control the issue (and the issue is clean, airrated water to be brief) before going chemical. It has put me on several rollercoasyer rides in the distant past.
All filter media (sleeves, carbon, nitrate sponge, etc) should be diligently cleaned. Also, think about water flow. Your LR is a natural biological filter, but only if it has flow through it.
 

cgrant

Active Member
only way to do less water changes (when doing them for nitrate) is to use a sulfur denitrifier, but that does not eliminate water changes.
 
Also test your water source, test before mixing the salt. Might be your water source has nitrates. I would also recommend testing for phosphates those are probably high to. What substrate are you using? If you are using CC I would switch to sand. I spent years trying to get my nitrate down and couldnt until I switched over to sand.
 

oceanists

Active Member
nitrates aroun 30 or 40 wont really stress fish in a well established tank as long as they are acclimated correctly also there are alot of corals that come from nutrient rich water so i dont really agree entirely with you have to have 0 nitrates to keep coral mine have always been around 20 and i havent had ANY problems with my reef
Let me clarify
for example
Noticable nitrates - Mushrooms, Sponges, Clove Polyps, Green Star Polyps, Goniopora (although they dont live long to begin with in captivity), Even (despite the debate) some clams. These all feed off of nutrients.
No Nitrates - Frog Spawn, Hammer Coral, Anemones ect ect ect
 
Xenia also like some nitrates but you still need to get the nitrates way down, IMO at the level you are now you are going to "burn" even some of the hardier corals.
 

oceanists

Active Member
Originally Posted by Dragonladylea
Xenia also like some nitrates but you still need to get the nitrates way down, IMO at the level you are now you are going to "burn" even some of the hardier corals.

oh 140 is way to high... and by no means should you any corals at that point. get it to 30 and you shouldnt have a problem with smart choices
 

chief26

Member
thanks for feedback
fish seems fine
i have a mixture of sand and cc maybe to much cc should i remove some and put more sand in-base is maybe an inch sand always settles on the bottom.
i removed the ceramic from my filter and replaced the sponge.
i did a water change 20% and some of the bubble algea broke. i will rinse the frozen food for now on and what about live brind shrimp can my problem be the water they come in?? i do that about every 2 wks. my salinity seems to get higher on its own between water changes? why? how can i stop this or can that be from the live shrimp too.
my nitrates came down by about 20ppm. what about base rock. I have a couple pieces for decoration. could this hold the nitrates or will the natural bacteria just grow on them too? the algea is just starting to grown on them.
 

oceanists

Active Member
Originally Posted by chief26
thanks for feedback
fish seems fine
i have a mixture of sand and cc maybe to much cc should i remove some and put more sand in-base is maybe an inch sand always settles on the bottom.
i removed the ceramic from my filter and replaced the sponge.
i did a water change 20% and some of the bubble algea broke. i will rinse the frozen food for now on and what about live brind shrimp can my problem be the water they come in?? i do that about every 2 wks. my salinity seems to get higher on its own between water changes? why? how can i stop this or can that be from the live shrimp too.
my nitrates came down by about 20ppm. what about base rock. I have a couple pieces for decoration. could this hold the nitrates or will the natural bacteria just grow on them too? the algea is just starting to grown on them.

To be honest i would think about removing your substrate, what will happen is the LS will work its way to the bottom after awhile becoming a HUGE Nitrate factory .... I know alot of people argue it isnt if vaccumed .... but with a mixture of sand and cc when you vaccum your losing millions of beneficual bacteria and maybe even copepods .....
What I would do is vaccum out as much sand as you can into a 5gal Jug and then remove the CC
Also, instead of doing a 20% change every 2 weeks, I would do more frequent smaller waterchanges when dealing with trates.... maybe like a 5% change every 3 days.... this will also help maintain trace elements in your tank.
As for the salinity.. how are you testing it? Refractometer, Hydrometer? I just bought a Brand New Milwaukee Refractometer from a Flee market for $79 lists 159.00 has a case and everything... and needless to say my Hydrometer read 1.021 and the refractometer reads 1.026 after calibration ... and also if your arent doing top offs that is probably why your salinity rises. How long do you mix you SW for?
Base Rock shouldnt affect your nitrates.
 

chief26

Member
i have a hydometer. my water i usally by premixed otherwise i mix a batch use a little at a time and when i get low i mix more. most of the time i buy premixed. i will remove alot of the cc. i thought that the cc keeps your calcium level right??? what about the algea is it ok? some of it is real pretty and now i'm getting these things off the side of my lr that look like over soaked wet noodles. what could that be. i would like to send a picture of my whole tank but it has to many pixsils.
 

oceanists

Active Member
Originally Posted by chief26
i have a hydometer. my water i usally by premixed otherwise i mix a batch use a little at a time and when i get low i mix more. most of the time i buy premixed. i will remove alot of the cc. i thought that the cc keeps your calcium level right??? what about the algea is it ok? some of it is real pretty and now i'm getting these things off the side of my lr that look like over soaked wet noodles. what could that be. i would like to send a picture of my whole tank but it has to many pixsils.

right click the thumb of your picture click edit .... it will bring it up in paint ... click image ... then strech/skew then adjust horz and vert to about 15% each then click save and that should fix your problem with posting the image ..... the bubble algea shouldnt pose a problem as long as you propagate it ... it multiplies rapidly so it may be hard to not let it over run your tank .... as for them bursting when you remove them it hasnt been proven that it released spores and causes more but its recomended that you try to remove it as a bubble
 

poniegirl

Active Member
Originally Posted by chief26
my salinity seems to get higher on its own between water changes? why? how can i stop this or can that be from the live shrimp too.
my nitrates came down by about 20ppm. what about base rock. I have a couple pieces for decoration. could this hold the nitrates or will the natural bacteria just grow on them too? the algea is just starting to grown on them.
Water evaporates, but the salt in the water does not. That's why the increase in between water changes and also why keeping the tank topped off is important. Topping off with fresh water controls the salinity, but only if you do top off regularly. You don't want to allow the level to drop so far that you will be drastically changing the salinity by topping it off. Moderation and constant diligence. If the tank room is climate controlled, your job will be easier because there won't be quite the evaporation rate in the summer.
Your rock should also function as somewhat of a filter. I have heard 2 lbs per tank gallons. And this is personal preference, also. I prefer the rock to be abundant and it also serves the fish and other critters with homes and resting sites, and food if you have any members that eat algae.
 

chief26

Member
thanks I will try to post a picture soon. sould i remove a little of the cc at a time as to not lose beneficial bugs? Can i add more LR to the tank-will it cause my levels to re-cycle? I know when you see my picture your going to tell me to get rid of the base rock
 

poniegirl

Active Member
Originally Posted by chief26
I know when you see my picture your going to tell me to get rid of the base rock

Your base rock will eventually take on it's own life. Love to see!
Most folks that respond only do so to support, I think.
You should get information that helps on this site.
 
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