nuissance algae

dani

dani

Member
In the last day or so, I've noticed a dark purple algae on the cc in the tank. It now has long "hair" coming from it and is spreading like crazy across the cc.
It's not red.
I plan to do a 20% water change tomorrow (originally intended for today, but waiting on saltwater to mix).
I have a clean-up crew of hermits and a mix of snails (mexican turbo, Astrea turbo, and atlantic turbo) The Astrea and Mexican are on my live rock more than the cc and glass. The atlantic are on the glass near the top (after starting at the bottom)
Should I be concerned with this algae?
 
dani

dani

Member
This is the only photo I have of it on the CC. You can see it in the foreground and around the purple plate coral.
The one with the feather duster shows some on my live rock. It's not easily blown off the rock with a turkey baster, though one of the snails made a small dent in it and gave up.
I will try to get some photos of the "hair" part later today.

 
jtrzerocool

jtrzerocool

Active Member
It's Cyanobacteria...increase the flow to that spot in the tank and feed less often...that takes care of it in my tank...
I have also heard that you can decrease the amount of time that your lights are on...but i have not tried this method...
 
socal57che

socal57che

Active Member
Can we get a full tank shot? This is likely related to your rhodactis that is shrinking.
What are the actual readings from your water tests. What lighing do you have? Does your full photo period of 11 hrs include any actinic only time? I would reduce this by 2 hrs daily.
What is your water change schedule and do you use RO water?
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by jtrzerocool
http:///forum/post/2922530
It's Cyanobacteria...increase the flow to that spot in the tank and feed less often...that takes care of it in my tank...
I have also heard that you can decrease the amount of time that your lights are on...but i have not tried this method...
I had a feeling it was probably that :(
I am going to decrease the time on the lights.
 
stevot123

stevot123

New Member
I recently had a problem with cyano and found that if you can suck the majority of it off your rock and cc with the syphon before adding the new water from the water change and then leave the lights off in your tank for two days(absolutely no light, LEDs, ambient from another room). I have SPS, LPS, softies and a Clam in my tank and did not have a problem when doing this. IMO I think this is the best way to get rid of this pain.
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by socal57che
http:///forum/post/2922582
Can we get a full tank shot? This is likely related to your rhodactis that is shrinking.
What are the actual readings from your water tests. What lighing do you have? Does your full photo period of 11 hrs include any actinic only time? I would reduce this by 2 hrs daily.
What is your water change schedule and do you use RO water?
Power compacts. daylight/actinics are one switch; moonlights the other switch (made by Current USA)
my 90gal is 25 3/8" deep
I will reduce the time the daylight/actinics are on to max 8 hrs and leave the moonlights the remainder.
Delay in my water change :( But will be doing one (20%)tomorrow. Just waiting on saltwater to mix with powerhead. I use RO water.
 
socal57che

socal57che

Active Member
Originally Posted by Dani
http:///forum/post/2922649
Power compacts. daylight/actinics are one switch; moonlights the other switch (made by Current USA)
my 90gal is 25 3/8" deep
I will reduce the time the daylight/actinics are on to max 8 hrs and leave the moonlights the remainder.
Delay in my water change :( But will be doing one (20%)tomorrow. Just waiting on saltwater to mix with powerhead. I use RO water.
My Current PC fixture has a seperate cord for the moonlights with individual switches and cords for the daylights and actinics. The moonlight cord is small guage wire with a transformer on the end. It is not switched, but both daylights and actinics have individual switches.
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by socal57che
http:///forum/post/2922656
My Current PC fixture has a seperate cord for the moonlights with individual switches and cords for the daylights and actinics. The moonlight cord is small guage wire with a transformer on the end. It is not switched, but both daylights and actinics have individual switches.
That sounds more like mine. the guy I bought mine from explained it the wrong way. I've always just had 1 switch lights before. So still figuring this stuff out.
Thanks for all the help
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by Stevot123
http:///forum/post/2922642
I recently had a problem with cyano and found that if you can suck the majority of it off your rock and cc with the syphon before adding the new water from the water change and then leave the lights off in your tank for two days(absolutely no light, LEDs, ambient from another room). I have SPS, LPS, softies and a Clam in my tank and did not have a problem when doing this. IMO I think this is the best way to get rid of this pain.
My tank resides in our office conference room :( So I can't prevent the room's lights from being on. But I will try to siphon as much out as possible prior to the water change and leave the lights off in the tank
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by socal57che
http:///forum/post/2922681
bluegreen algae, cyanobacteria info...
http://netclub.athiel.com/cyano/cyanos2.htm
google this phrase...
Blue Green Algae/Cyanobacteria, Identification, Causes & Control
...then click on the first actual result.
If you want to email me I can send you a list of helpful links... socal57chevy @ yahoo.com
Thanks!
Started reading...now I am thinking this stuff is "choking" my soft coral :(
 
dani

dani

Member
I left the lights off for 2 days, cleaned the cc, and did a 20% water change. There is really good flow over all the nasty algae.
It's not as bad on the cc anymore, however it is all over the rock :(
I plan to do another 20% water change and vaccuum again.
The daylights run 6 hrs and the actinics run 2 hrs.
Going to tackle this damn stuff hopefully sooner than later.
Should I be concerned that is is in between the heads on my suncoral?
I want to clean it off, but don't want to harm the coral. Any suggestions?
And big thanks to socal57che for the helpful web material :)
 
saltn00b

saltn00b

Active Member
you might want to consider switching to LS.
there is a variety of reasons to make the switch, but you may always have cyano with CC.
where in S FL are you? im in tamarac.
 
nycbob

nycbob

Active Member
the algae on the glass, u will need to clean it urself with a scraper. as for the gravel, get a sandsifter to move the sand or cc, better yet, perhaps some nass. snails. how old is the light?
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by saltn00b
http:///forum/post/2931416
you might want to consider switching to LS.
there is a variety of reasons to make the switch, but you may always have cyano with CC.
where in S FL are you? im in tamarac.
I am planning to switch to LS. I just haven't had the time to do that project. I posted about it on someone else's thread in the tips & techniques section.
I'm not thrilled with the CC. But, I do like the biofilter part of it.
I am going to add some cleaner clams. I had 1 but it died shortly after getting it and one of my large crabs enjoyed a good dinner.
I'm in WPB.
 
dani

dani

Member
Originally Posted by nycbob
http:///forum/post/2931460
the algae on the glass, u will need to clean it urself with a scraper. as for the gravel, get a sandsifter to move the sand or cc, better yet, perhaps some nass. snails. how old is the light?
I do scrape the glass and keep it clean. I didn't know if a sandsifter star could handle the larger CC. I thought they preferred smaller particles.
There haven't been any nassarius at the LFS here. I do have mexican turbos. I will be ordering the nassarius as well as ceriths. I am considering an abalone too.
The PC light bulbs are 6 mos old. I got them from someone local.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top