Octopus Tank setup

alanr917

New Member
Hello everyone. I am buying a 55 gallon tank for an octopus from Petsmart: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3804445, and had a few questions.
1) How much cured live rock will i need, and where can i get quality/cheap cured live rock?
2) What is the best type of sand to use for an octo, or does it not matter?
3) What kind of filtration would you use for an octopus, and where can i get it?
4) What is the best live food for an octo, and what is the cheapest place to get this?
5) Where is the best place to buy a lot of deionized/distilled water, and which is a better choice for mix with Instant Ocean?
Thank you for your help :)
 

mr. limpid

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanR917 http:///t/394705/octopus-tank-setup#post_3513173
Hello everyone. I am buying a 55 gallon tank for an octopus from Petsmart: http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3804445, and had a few questions. This set will not work for a octopus. Reasons: they will escape threw that hood and will dry up and die. You need a sealed DT, any hole at all they can fit threw, they have no bones. I would also use a drilled tank with a fine mesh screen on over flow, (even then there is a chance of escape). A glass top and seal any penetration. With a sump and fuge. This will provide filtration and oxygen for the sealed DT.
1) How much cured live rock will i need, and where can i get quality/cheap cured live rock? 1 to 2 pounds per gal. Provide caves for him to hide in.
2) What is the best type of sand to use for an octo, or does it not matter? medium to course
3) What kind of filtration would you use for an octopus, and where can i get it? sump
4) What is the best live food for an octo, and what is the cheapest place to get this? ghost shrimp, inverts (crabs), live foods
5) Where is the best place to buy a lot of deionized/distilled water, and which is a better choice for mix with Instant Ocean? local fish store sell it
Thank you for your help :)
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
some great reading if you have not all ready done so

Octopuses: Things to Know Before You Buy (Full Article)

Author: James W. Fatherree, MSc

Photographer:
James Fatherree
They're renowned for their eight appendages and a propensity for squirting jet-black ink in a crisis, but there’s plenty more to know before keeping one of the intelligent and unusual octopuses in the home aquarium. TFH’s resident reefer explains many of the joys and challenges of keeping these fascinating creatures.
An octopus is definitely one of the coolest invertebrates you could get your hands on. Not only are they weird looking and very intelligent, but they also have entertaining personalities. They can quickly change color to match their surroundings and can even alter the texture of their skin. It’s easy to see why an octopus would make a great addition to an aquarium.
Caring for an octopus is quite different than caring for a fish, however. They can certainly be kept successfully, but they do have special care requirements, and there’s a lot you need to know before trying one. With this in mind, I’ll give you some basic info on octopus biology, and a good idea of what you’ll need to do and what you can expect.

Grouping

Octopuses (the most accepted plural form, with second choice being “octopodes”) are mollusks, meaning their cousins are clams and snails. They certainly don’t look or act like clams or snails (past the embryonic or larval stages, anyway), but long ago, all of these organisms shared a common ancestor. Specifically, octopuses are cephalopods, a group of mollusks that also includes cuttlefishes, nautiluses, and squids.

Jet Propulsion

All of the cephalopods have a structure called a hyponome, which is a muscular tube they can use for shooting water. Cephalopods can draw water into their body chamber and force it out through this tube with muscular contractions, which grants them jet propulsion abilities. The hyponome can be pointed in different directions, and when water is vigorously expelled through it, the animal is propelled in the opposite direction. They can go forward, backward, up, down, and sideways with ease. Of course, octopuses can also use their arms as if they were legs, crawling over the bottom instead of swimming over it.
There are eight of these arms (I’m betting that you already knew that), each of which is little more than a very strong and elongated set of muscles. These are exceptionally sensitive and dexterous, and octopuses can perform surprising feats of both strength and gracefulness. The hundreds of suckers that line the undersides of the arms are of great help, as these can get a grip on just about anything.
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The Blackness
Most cephalopods can also produce a dark ink-like liquid called sepia, which can be squirted out if they feel threatened. This produces a distractive cloud in the water, allowing them to swim off and live another day. It’s neat, but this can obviously be a problem in a closed aquarium system, which I’ll elaborate upon later.

Ever Hungry

Cephalopods have a surprisingly high metabolism and can eat a lot for their size. They are all carnivores, and though the nautilus is a scavenger to some degree, the rest are certainly predators. More specifically, octopuses will eat fishes if given the opportunity, but their dietfont> is primarily composed of various crustaceans like crabs, lobsters, and shrimps. Unfortunately, they’ll also eat snails and clams, including larger varieties like tridacnids (giant clams). Note that their fairly high metabolic rate also means they have a relatively high demand for oxygen compared to many other marine creatures.
Lastly, I have some particularly bad news. With the exception of the nautiluses, cephalopods generally don’t live very long. It’s a real shame, but the natural lifespan of nearly any of the cephalopods you’d be able to buy ranges from about six months to two years. A few tropical species may make it as long as three years, and some cold-water species may make it six or so, but a year or so is the limit for most octopuses. So even if you do everything perfectly with respect to care requirements, an octopus still won’t be around too long compared to most other aquarium livestock.

Care Requirements

With the basic biology out of the way, let’s look at the general care requirements you’ll need to think about. Maintaining acceptable water quality, providing sufficient tank space, feeding them properly, etc., all need to be taken into consideration.
To start, you should strive to maintain exceptional water quality. Salinity should optimally be 1.025 to 1.027 when measured as specific gravity, the pH should optimally stay between 8.1 and 8.3, and ammonia should be undetectable. Basically, all of these parameters should be kept within ranges acceptable for a reef aquarium, with the exception of temperature. This is because many octopuses need relatively cool water.
While a temperature of 80°F (or even a little higher) is fine for most things kept in a marine aquarium, temperatures this high can dramatically shorten the lifespan of some octopuses for two reasons. Many species live in cooler waters (even those labeled as tropical species) and are adapted to life in cool water. Also, dissolved oxygen concentrations are directly related to water temperature, as cool water holds more dissolved oxygen than warm water. There’s a chance you’ll need to buy a chiller to keep your aquarium’s temperature in the mid to low 70s (or even 60s) if you expect an octopus to live as long as it would in the wild. Of course, this depends on various factors such as the species in question, how you set your home’s air conditioner, and what type of filtration you employ. But as a general rule, anything over 75°F is too high, and you’ll have to do what it takes to keep the water cool.
Keeping the water vigorously moving at the surface will also help keep the concentration of dissolved oxygen high, but in most cases, it will be even better to use a trickle (wet-dry) filter with a drip plate and exposed bio-balls. Using a skimmer is also a good way to help keep concentrations at satisfactory levels. Conversely, fluidized bed filters, undergravel filters, box filters, or trying to stick with some live rock and a powerhead or two is less likely to get the job done.

Entanglement Hazards

Speaking of filtration, octopuses will constantly poke around with their arms and have a bad habit of sometimes sticking them where they shouldn’t go. Regardless of the filter you choose, you’ll need to make absolutely sure that the octopus can’t get its body parts sucked up into it. Powerheads are notorious for damaging the tender tips of curious tentacles, so you may need to attach some kind of screening material over any pump intakes, or forgo their use altogether.

A Metal-Free Environment
It is especially important to make sure that the concentration of metals is effectively zero. Octopuses cannot tolerate copper in particular, which is often used to treat fishes with parasite problems. Copper tends to bind to any sort of carbonate sands, gravels, rocks, and even the tank glass, only to come free later. If copper has ever been used in a tank, it may be unsuitable, and you should never use substrates that were exposed to copper medications. Likewise, you should only use purified water, such as the kind produced using a good reverse osmosis filter, and a quality brand of salt mix to prevent such metals from causing problems.
The World on Its Plate

Again, an octopus will eat pretty much anything that may be kept with it. I wouldn’t pair it with any fishes, shrimps, crabs, snails, or anything else you want to keep alive—they’ll likely end up being nothing more than expensive meals. Thus, an octopus will need a tank to itself. They generally don’t get along with each other either, so there should be one per tank. Fortunately, most of the octopuses you might come across won’t get very big. In fact, many folks (including myself) have kept small species in 30- or even 20-gallon aquariums.
You’ll need to provide an octopus with a good supply of appropriate foods. Shrimps, fiddler crabs, shore crabs, blue crabs, and hermit crabs are great, while freshwater shrimps, ghost shrimps, and crayfish are fine, too (Toonen, 2001). If you are lucky enough to live near a bait shop with live items, providing these will be no problem, but in most cases, non-living foods will also work (for adult octopuses) as long as they’re considerably fresh. Fresh, unfrozen marine seafood from the grocery store is the next best thing. Live marine fishes can also be used, but they would be pretty expensive compared to other suitable stuff, and you should never use any sort of live freshwater feeder fish, like cheap goldfish, or freshwater stuff from the grocery. These are unsuitable for any marine carnivore, as they contain the wrong nutrients and way too much fat (Toonen, 2001). Regardless of what you do use, providing some variety in the diet is strongly suggested.

Aquatic House Arrest

Octopuses are clever as can be. Someone once told me that if they can fit their eyeball through a hole, they can squeeze everything else through that same hole too. On top of that, they can survive out of water for quite a few minutes, which adds up to an animal that just might decide to leave its tank if you don’t take precautions to keep it contained. So in addition to everything else mentioned above, one of the keys to keeping an octopus is figuring out how to keep it in its tank. This isn’t a simple thing, either—it can require a good bit of planning because you’ll need a tank that is essentially sealed, with great filtration and a means to keep the oxygen level up. Fortunately, there are lots of places to get specific information on how to do it right (some of which I’ve referenced below).

Exercising the Mind
This may sound odd, but you’ll also want to provide an octopus with some form of entertainment. They’re surprisingly intelligent and like to use their brains, so giving them toys to play with can actually keep them healthier. Pretty much anything you read concerning the successful keeping of octopuses includes “enrichment” as part of their care requirements, so don’t take this lightly. It doesn’t take too much—something as simple as a ping pong ball could be provided for them to fiddle with (Toonen, 2003). Better yet, providing live foods for them to hunt down lets them perform as they would in the wild. Any tank that will house an octopus should also have plenty of rocks and shells for them to move about and hide in.

Death by Ink

It’s not particularly common, but the ink can be a problem. If you happen to startle or stress an octopus beyond its tolerance, it may react by jetting across the tank, smacking the glass at the end, and squirting out a cloud of ink. Injuring themselves on the glass is an issue in itself, but the ink alone can kill them if it isn’t taken care of in a timely manner. This isn’t because it’s toxic; it is because it can coat the squirter’s gills and lead to suffocation (Wood, 1994). Performing a sizeable water change, using activated carbon, and running a skimmer is strongly suggested if an octopus does ink up a tank.

Ones to Avoid

To finish up, the last thing I want to mention is the fact that there are some oddball octopuses out there that you need to be wary of. First, there’s the blue-ring octopus, Hapalochlaena spp. These are certainly attractive octopuses, but they have a poisonous bite that can kill you, and their natural lifespan under normal conditions is less than a year. They’re relatively expensive too, so you need to think hard before buying one. Then there’s the mimic or wonderpus octopus, which is especially fascinating, but is also short-lived, ships very poorly, may require an 8-inch deep sand bed to burrow in, and is terribly expensive. So, one last time, do your homework before buying.
 

mr. limpid

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///t/394705/octopus-tank-setup#post_3513622
some great reading if you have not all ready done so

Octopuses: Things to Know Before You Buy (Full Article)

Author: James W. Fatherree, MSc

Photographer:
James Fatherree
They're renowned for their eight appendages and a propensity for squirting jet-black ink in a crisis, but there’s plenty more to know before keeping one of the intelligent and unusual octopuses in the home aquarium. TFH’s resident reefer explains many of the joys and challenges of keeping these fascinating creatures.
An octopus is definitely one of the coolest invertebrates you could get your hands on. Not only are they weird looking and very intelligent, but they also have entertaining personalities. They can quickly change color to match their surroundings and can even alter the texture of their skin. It’s easy to see why an octopus would make a great addition to an aquarium.
Caring for an octopus is quite different than caring for a fish, however. They can certainly be kept successfully, but they do have special care requirements, and there’s a lot you need to know before trying one. With this in mind, I’ll give you some basic info on octopus biology, and a good idea of what you’ll need to do and what you can expect.
adding-bottom: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px">
Grouping
Octopuses (the most accepted plural form, with second choice being “octopodes”) are mollusks, meaning their cousins are clams and snails. They certainly don’t look or act like clams or snails (past the embryonic or larval stages, anyway), but long ago, all of these organisms shared a common ancestor. Specifically, octopuses are cephalopods, a group of mollusks that also includes cuttlefishes, nautiluses, and squids.

Jet Propulsion

All of the cephalopods have a structure called a hyponome, which is a muscular tube they can use for shooting water. Cephalopods can draw water into their body chamber and force it out through this tube with muscular contractions, which trkjmp.com/click?v=VVM6MTI5NTU6MjE4OmdyYW50czo1ZjIwOWMwZWIxNWNlNGM2ZmI5ODA3OWRiZTQyOTgwMDp6LTEzMjItMTMwNDMyOnd3dy50ZmhtYWdhemluZS5jb206MTYwODc6NTkzNGI4ODE1ZTlkZWVmOTY2MTczNTZiZDQ4Y2NiNzk" style="padding-bottom: 0px; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; color: rgb(81,163,221); text-decoration: underline; padding-top: 0px" title="Click to Continue > by Coupon Companion">grants them jet propulsion abilities. The hyponome can be pointed in different directions, and when water is vigorously expelled through it, the animal is propelled in the opposite direction. They can go forward, backward, up, down, and sideways with ease. Of course, octopuses can also use their arms as if they were legs, crawling over the bottom instead of swimming over it.
There are eight of these arms (I’m betting that you already knew that), each of which is little more than a very strong and elongated set of muscles. These are exceptionally sensitive and dexterous, and octopuses can perform surprising feats of both strength and gracefulness. The hundreds of suckers that line the undersides of the arms are of great help, as these can get a grip on just about anything.

The Blackness

Most cephalopods can also produce a dark ink-like liquid called sepia, which can be squirted out if they feel threatened. This produces a distractive cloud in the water, allowing them to swim off and live another day. It’s neat, but this can obviously be a problem in a closed aquarium system, which I’ll elaborate upon later.

Ever Hungry

Cephalopods have a surprisingly high metabolism and can eat a lot for their size. They are all carnivores, and though the nautilus is a scavenger to some degree, the rest are certainly predators. More specifically, octopuses will eat fishes if given the opportunity, but their diet is primarily composed of various crustaceans like crabs, lobsters, and shrimps. Unfortunately, they’ll also eat snails and clams, including larger varieties like tridacnids (giant clams). Note that their fairly high metabolic rate also means they have a relatively high demand for oxygen compared to many other marine creatures.
Lastly, I have some particularly bad news. With the exception of the nautiluses, cephalopods generally don’t live very long. It’s a real shame, but the natural lifespan of nearly any of the cephalopods you’d be able to buy ranges from about six months to two years. A few tropical species may make it as long as three years, and some cold-water species may make it six or so, but a year or so is the limit for most octopuses. So even if you do everything perfectly with respect to care requirements, an octopus still won’t be around too long compared to most other aquarium livestock.

Care Requirements

With the basic biology out of the way, let’s look at the general care requirements you’ll need to think about. Maintaining acceptable water quality, providing sufficient tank space, feeding them properly, etc., all need to be taken into consideration.
To start, you should strive to maintain exceptional water quality. Salinity should optimally be 1.025 to 1.027 when measured as specific gravity, the pH should optimally stay between 8.1 and 8.3, and ammonia should be undetectable. Basically, all of these parameters should be kept within ranges acceptable for a reef aquarium, with the exception of temperature. This is because many octopuses need relatively cool water.
padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px">While a temperature of 80°F (or even a little higher) is fine for most things kept in a marine aquarium, temperatures this high can dramatically shorten the lifespan of some octopuses for two reasons. Many species live in cooler waters (even those labeled as tropical species) and are adapted to life in cool water. Also, dissolved oxygen concentrations are directly related to water temperature, as cool water holds more dissolved oxygen than warm water. There’s a chance you’ll need to buy a chiller to keep your aquarium’s temperature in the mid to low 70s (or even 60s) if you expect an octopus to live as long as it would in the wild. Of course, this depends on various factors such as the species in question, how you set your home’s air conditioner, and what type of filtration you employ. But as a general rule, anything over 75°F is too high, and you’ll have to do what it takes to keep the water cool.
Keeping the water vigorously moving at the surface will also help keep the concentration of dissolved oxygen high, but in most cases, it will be even better to use a trickle (wet-dry) filter with a drip plate and exposed bio-balls. Using a skimmer is also a good way to help keep concentrations at satisfactory levels. Conversely, fluidized bed filters, undergravel filters, box filters, or trying to stick with some live rock and a powerhead or two is less likely to get the job done.

Entanglement Hazards

Speaking of filtration, octopuses will constantly poke around with their arms and have a bad habit of sometimes sticking them where they shouldn’t go. Regardless of the filter you choose, you’ll need to make absolutely sure that the octopus can’t get its body parts sucked up into it. Powerheads are notorious for damaging the tender tips of curious tentacles, so you may need to attach some kind of screening material over any pump intakes, or forgo their use altogether.

A Metal-Free Environment

It is especially important to make sure that the concentration of metals is effectively zero. Octopuses cannot tolerate copper in particular, which is often used to treat fishes with parasite problems. Copper tends to bind to any sort of carbonate sands, gravels, rocks, and even the tank glass, only to come free later. If copper has ever been used in a tank, it may be unsuitable, and you should never use substrates that were exposed to copper medications. Likewise, you should only use purified water, such as the kind produced using a good reverse osmosis filter, and a quality brand of salt mix to prevent such metals from causing problems.
; margin: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px">The World on Its Plate
Again, an octopus will eat pretty much anything that may be kept with it. I wouldn’t pair it with any fishes, shrimps, crabs, snails, or anything else you want to keep alive—they’ll likely end up being nothing more than expensive meals. Thus, an octopus will need a tank to itself. They generally don’t get along with each other either, so there should be one per tank. Fortunately, most of the octopuses you might come across won’t get very big. In fact, many folks (including myself) have kept small species in 30- or even 20-gallon aquariums.
You’ll need to provide an octopus with a good supply of appropriate foods. Shrimps, fiddler crabs, shore crabs, blue crabs, and hermit crabs are great, while freshwater shrimps, ghost shrimps, and crayfish are fine, too (Toonen, 2001). If you are lucky enough to live near a bait shop with live items, providing these will be no problem, but in most cases, non-living foods will also work (for adult octopuses) as long as they’re considerably fresh. Fresh, unfrozen marine seafood from the grocery store is the next best thing. Live marine fishes can also be used, but they would be pretty expensive compared to other suitable stuff, and you should never use any sort of live freshwater feeder fish, like cheap goldfish, or freshwater stuff from the grocery. These are unsuitable for any marine carnivore, as they contain the wrong nutrients and way too much fat (Toonen, 2001). Regardless of what you do use, providing some variety in the diet is strongly suggested.

ft: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px">Aquatic House Arrest
Octopuses are clever as can be. Someone once told me that if they can fit their eyeball through a hole, they can squeeze everything else through that same hole too. On top of that, they can survive out of water for quite a few minutes, which adds up to an animal that just might decide to leave its tank if you don’t take precautions to keep it contained. So in addition to everything else mentioned above, one of the keys to keeping an octopus is figuring out how to keep it in its tank. This isn’t a simple thing, either—it can require a good bit of planning because you’ll need a tank that is essentially sealed, with great filtration and a means to keep the oxygen level up. Fortunately, there are lots of places to get specific information on how to do it right (some of which I’ve referenced below).

Exercising the Mind

This may sound odd, but you’ll also want to provide an octopus with some form of entertainment. They’re surprisingly intelligent and like to use their brains, so giving them toys to play with can actually keep them healthier. Pretty much anything you read concerning the successful keeping of octopuses includes “enrichment” as part of their care requirements, so don’t take this lightly. It doesn’t take too much—something as simple as a ping pong ball could be provided for them to fiddle with (Toonen, 2003). Better yet, providing live foods for them to hunt down lets them perform as they would in the wild. Any tank that will house an octopus should also have plenty of rocks and shells for them to move about and hide in.

Death by Ink
It’s not particularly common, but the ink can be a problem. If you happen to startle or stress an octopus beyond its tolerance, it may react by jetting across the tank, smacking the glass at the end, and squirting out a cloud of ink. Injuring themselves on the glass is an issue in itself, but the ink alone can kill them if it isn’t taken care of in a timely manner. This isn’t because it’s toxic; it is because it can coat the squirter’s gills and lead to suffocation (Wood, 1994). Performing a sizeable water change, using activated carbon, and running a skimmer is strongly suggested if an octopus does ink up a tank.

Ones to Avoid

vetica, arial, sans-serif; white-space: normal; orphans: 2; letter-spacing: normal; color: rgb(77,61,32); word-spacing: 0px; padding-top: 0px; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">
To finish up, the last thing I want to mention is the fact that there are some oddball octopuses out there that you need to be wary of. First, there’s the blue-ring octopus, Hapalochlaena spp. These are certainly attractive octopuses, but they have a poisonous bite that can kill you, and their natural lifespan under normal conditions is less than a year. They’re relatively expensive too, so you need to think hard before buying one. Then there’s the mimic or wonderpus octopus, which is especially fascinating, but is also short-lived, ships very poorly, may require an 8-inch deep sand bed to burrow in, and is terribly expensive. So, one last time, do your homework before buying.
Wow Joe, good stuff. Never wanted an octopus and now I still don't.
 

alanr917

New Member
Hello again. I was informed that the tank I was using was not okay for an octopus, do you guys think this one would work?
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3804457
Thank you.
 

sweatervest13

Active Member
Any tank you purchase will need to be modified for an octopus. To my knowledge you cannot just go out a purchase an "octopus" tank. This is one of the many reasons that most experts will advise that you don't start your SW fish keeping with an octopus.
I am really not trying to burst your bubble here, but just trying to show you that these creatures are for more experienced hobbyists who have experience keeping all types of fish and invertebrates.
The article that Florida Joe posted referenced a "wet/dry" trickle filter or sump tank. I would start your search for a tank, looking for a "reef ready" tank. This is a tank that has an overflow and holes drilled into the bottom to be plumbed into a sump tank. The article suggests that you use a chiller to keep the waters consistently cool, a skimmer to handle the bio load and to help with the oxygen levels, a sealed top (completely sealed, no openings, you may have to have a lock on it as well), possibly running carbon (in case the octopus inks). I would guess that the extras needed to keep this critter are well over $1000.00 just for a chiller, skimmer, lid, and carbon reactor.
I will say this; you seem to have the desire to get this going. It can be done, but you will need to plan and research. Research being the key here. Google the heck out of keeping an octopus and see what you find.
 

sweatervest13

Active Member
Oh, and stop searching Petsmart for equipment. They are crap. It would be like shopping for a gourmet meal at the 7-11.
Again, Google online SW fish stores and you should find better equipment and tanks.
 

mr. limpid

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///t/394705/octopus-tank-setup#post_3513649
Oh, and stop searching Petsmart for equipment. They are crap. It would be like shopping for a gourmet meal at the 7-11.
Again, Google online SW fish stores and you should find better equipment and tanks.
Hey, that is my choice after a hard night out or White Castle.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
With all due respect I think you may be going about this the wrong way. IMO when you go about attempting to keep a species specifics tank and its inhabitant you need to get real world info. Info from hobbyists that are actively keeping the species you want to keep. That is where I would start. Before I spent my money on any equipment I would seek out these hobbyists and pic their brains. I have always found people in this hobby more than willing to help, even more so with species specific hobbyists. So again I say that is where to start.
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member

So You Want to Keep an Octopus...

Author: Nancy King

Photographer:
Joe Strickland
Octopuses exhibit intriguing behavior, surprising intelligence, and incredible shape- and color-changing abilities in the aquarium—as well as tragically short lifespans.
st1:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) }

An octopus is one of the most fascinating and rewarding marine creatures you can keep in the home aquarium. Octopuses interest us with their behavior, their ability to learn, their interaction with us, and their incredible shape- and color-changing abilities. They are intelligent creatures and have their own personalities. If you’re willing to take some time and effort, and you can afford shrimp and crabs for food, then maybe you’d like to consider keeping an octopus.
Some of the negatives of octopus-keeping include the short lifespan (less than a year for most), high cost of food, tendency to hide or remain camouflaged when you most want to see them, and the very restricted list of possible tankmates. You probably won’t be able to keep your favorite fish and corals in the same tank with the octopus. It’s also difficult for reef-tank owners to give up the sophisticated equipment (metal halide lights, UV filters, wavemakers, etc.) that are unnecessary and undesirable for an octopus.
Octopus-keeping can be easy in that they only need simple wet-dry filtration, don’t require much light, and don’t demand many of the precise conditions that sessile reef invertebrates need.
There are also several challenging aspects of octo-keeping. Providing adequate food is the most difficult task for many, especially because favorite octopus foods like crabs and other crustaceans are expensive and hard to come by. Octopuses need some live food for enrichment and nutrition, but most also accept frozen shrimp and a few other foods. The staple for octopus diets is often thawed frozen shrimp, supplemented with live crabs. Octopus-keepers living along the coast have an advantage because they have easier access to foods. Some find food along the shore, while others buy from bait shops or seafood stores. Octopus-keepers living further inland must rely on crabs and shrimp being shipped to their location. This can be expensive and incur delays.
How Do They Behave and Interact?
The dwarf species available now are often nocturnal and don’t interact much, but they can be fun to watch under a red light, which is invisible to the little octopus. The medium-size diurnal octopuses generally available are often interactive and can be interesting to observe and fun to play with. Many can be taught to open simple jars if a nice tasty crab is inside. They might also surprise you with some of their other incredible activities. It’s common for them to accept food from your hand or a feeding stick, and they will often come out to observe you.
Where Do I Find Them?
Octopuses are available from a number of sources. Local fish stores sometimes carry octopuses, or can at least order them. Occasionally, owners raise hatchlings and sell them publicly, which makes them the best source for tank-raised specimens. Live-rock farmers, usually in Florida, often have octopuses for sale and are a good source for dwarf octopuses. Also, some wild-caught octopuses are offered on the Internet. The “Octopus Availability” thread on www.tonmo.com lists many current sources for octopuses. A few home aquarists acquire their octopuses as hitchhikers on live rock.
What Species are Available?

It’s common for fish stores and suppliers to offer octopuses with no species identification. They may be listed as “assorted octopuses,” “brown octopuses,” or some other vague term. Sometimes the identification is faulty; dwarf octopuses have been sold as Octopus vulgaris, a much larger species. Try to find out what part of the world your octopus comes from, because this will help with later identification. Sometimes a home aquarist may acquire a rare and unusual species without even knowing it.
Octopus bimaculoides (bimac) is perhaps the most popular species, being easy to keep, reasonable in size, and sociable. It lays large eggs, which offers the possibility of raising the hatchlings. A bimac requires at least a 50-gallon tank, but many octopus-keepers put this species in even larger tanks to give their bimacs more room to explore and swim. Found along the coast of California, the bimac comes from cooler waters and can be kept as low as 59°F, yet many have successfully kept this octopus at room temperature. It’s better to try to keep the tank temperature in the lower 70s or below, using a fan on the sump or some other means.
Octopus mercatoris, a dwarf octopus from the Gulf of Mexico, is the best octopus for smaller tanks. A 30-gallon tank makes a good home for this small, nocturnal octopus. It can live in a shell or a small den, and can be viewed using a red light at night. Keep it at 74° to 76°F.
Octopus briareus
is a reef octopus with long legs. It can be kept in a 50- to 75-gallon tank (or even larger) with the water at about 78°F. Although nocturnal, most will come around to appearing during the day. They can be friendly and social. This species also has large eggs, so it’s possible to raise the hatchlings.
Abdopus aculeatus
is now coming on the market, especially in California aquarium stores. It’s known as the walking or bipedal octopus and has the advantage of being social and interactive. It comes from tropical waters and likes a tank temperature of 78°F. A 50-gallon tank or larger provides a good home for this octopus.
Octopuses to Avoid

The blue-ringed octopus Hapalochlaena lunulata
is not a choice for a pet octopus. This small octopus is known for its bright blue rings when threatened, a warning that it is about to bite. The blue-ringed octopus carries venom with a powerful nerve toxin for which there is no antidote. It’s a very dangerous animal to keep, even if you think you’ve taken every precaution. There are much better octopuses for the home aquarist, and this species should only be kept by a public aquarium.
A second group of species to avoid is the zebra or striped octopuses: wunderpus and mimic octopuses. The status of these octopuses is not known, and they may be close to endangered, so purchasing one only encourages the capture and sale of others. These octopuses are expensive and difficult to keep, and most have reached maturity by the time they’re offered for sale, so they may last only a month in your tank. A much better choice would be A. aculeatus.
Tank Requirements
As the Cephalopod Care co-moderator on www.tonmo.com, I have had the opportunity to follow well over 100 octopuses through their lives. As octopus-keepers, we have all learned from each other on the “Ceph Care” forums and have had the opportunity to see what works best for successful octopus-keeping. The best way to keep an octopus is actually the method we originally recommended: a tank of adequate size or better, lots of live rock in the tank (a pound per gallon), a one-inch sand bed, a wet-dry filter and sump, protein skimmer, powerhead for extra circulation, and a simple fluorescent light. No fancy equipment is needed—no metal halides (too much light), no UV filter, no wavemakers or other devices that a reef tank might require.
Make sure no copper has ever been used as a treatment in the tank you are using; copper is deadly to octopuses. Also, the tank must be very well cycled, and this will take three months or more if you’re just starting. Water quality is important, too. Start with RO/DI water—available at your local LFS—and use a good-quality salt mix.
Octopuses are especially sensitive to pH and ammonia. Water parameters should be: specific gravity about 1.026, pH around 8.2, nitrites and ammonia 0. Some nitrates can be tolerated—aim for less than 30 ppm.
Some Special Considerations

Locate sources for food before
you acquire an octopus, and price the cost of live crabs. You may be surprised at the expense of feeding, considering that you should provide some live food. You will spend much more on food than the cost of your octopus (unless you can catch your own octo food).
Octopuses require attention and care. It’s difficult to leave for a vacation (as it is with a reef tank). Avoid keeping them in an office or dormitory where they will be unattended for weekends or longer.
Regardless of what you might read, octopuses do try to escape. Make sure the lid on the tank is well sealed (duct tape is your friend). Also, intakes and outlets within the tank should be protected with a sponge or mesh secured by rubber bands or cable ties.
Rocks in the tank must be very stable. With its great strength, even a small octopus can topple your rock structure.
Nothing is sacred within your tank. Be prepared for your octopus to romp around the tank, rearrange rocks and shells, dig through the sand down to the glass, and generally change the overall setup. They do this more as they get older.
Because of its sensitivity to ammonia and nitrites, your octopus must be put in a well-cycled tank—one that has been running for at least three months. There are no shortcuts; no chemicals can be used to speed up the process.
It’s important to acclimate your new octopus upon its arrival, and this should be done slowly, using a drip line.
The First Weeks
The first few weeks can be trying for an octopus-keeper. You’ve just put your new specimen in its tank, it disappears for days, and you worry that it isn’t eating. This is common behavior for an octopus stressed by shipping or being placed into a new environment. To make this worse, your octopus may be dining on amphipods and ignoring the crabs and snails you carefully put in the tank for it. If you don’t see your octopus at first, don’t take apart the live rock looking for it, this will only disturb it more. Just be patient, make food available, and watch carefully. Because of its excellent camouflage abilities, your new pet may be right in front of you and you can’t see it.
Octopus Lifespan and Reproduction
The sad part of keeping an octopus is the short lifespan. Most last less than a year as pets because they’re already a few months old by the time they arrive. Under ideal conditions, bimacs have been known to live two years, but most home aquarists find them coming to the end of their lives at about 12 to 14 months. Dwarfs live six to eight months, and larger octopuses like O. vulgaris live even longer. The giant Pacific octopus Enteroctopus dofleini, which requires such a large tank and cold water that it’s rarely kept by individuals, may live up to five years.
An odd thing about octopuses is that eggs are laid near the end of the female’s life. A male can transfer a sperm packet to her quite early in her life, and this accounts for eggs being laid in a tank with only one octopus. The first sign an octopus-keeper may see is den building. The female builds a den for herself and her eggs, and her behavior may seem odd. When the eggs are laid, the female retreats to the den to protect and take care of the eggs. She may or may not eat during this period, but food should be offered. Around four to six weeks later the eggs hatch and the female usually dies within a few weeks.
If your octopus happens to be male, it will eventually become senescent and die soon afterwards.
Do Octopuses Bite?
Yes, octopuses can bite. None of the species we commonly keep are defensive biters, so it’s more of a curiosity bite, or just to see if you’re edible! Usually they try this only once. It’s possible to avoid getting bitten by not letting the octopus come down on your hand and enveloping it with its mantle. Most people have survived octopus bites with no problem other than a stinging sensation like a bee sting. It’s also wise to avoid submerging a hand with any sort of wound into your tank, since you could get an infection. Dwarf octopuses often have a more potent bite than the larger octopuses we keep. Many pet octopuses never bite their owners. Nevertheless, be careful!
Octopus Play

Some octopuses like to play with toys. Most will play tug of war with a feeding stick and maybe even your hand. Others prefer a pile of shells to sort through, various baby toys such as a string of plastic rings, toy building blocks, or a construction of drinking straws. Octo-keepers have taught their octopuses to open a jar or container with a crab inside, starting with the lid barely screwed on. The hand of its keeper is also a favorite toy for the octopus.
Why Keep an Octopus?

Keeping an octopus enables you to experience one of the most intelligent animals in the sea, one that is interesting to observe and offers the possibility of interaction. Keeping an octopus tank is much different from keeping a reef tank, which is fascinating in its own right. Many people are intrigued by these animals and want to know more about them. I found that by introducing others to my octopus tank I promoted a real appreciation of intelligent marine life, which might lead to more care and concern about all sea life.
For More Information
The Octopus News Magazine Online, www.tonmo.com.
- See more at: http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/so-you-want-to-keep-an-octopus.htm#sthash.hqVK85ZN.dpuf
 

florida joe

Well-Known Member
Here you go this is a forum that deals with octopus
http://www.tonmo.com/forums/forum.php?s=6612ee16c9dfdd2199c33c27729bc0ed
PS my wife just looked over my shoulder and said NO YOU ARE NOT
 

mr. limpid

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///t/394705/octopus-tank-setup#post_3513657
Here you go this is a forum that deals with octopus
http://www.tonmo.com/forums/forum.php?s=6612ee16c9dfdd2199c33c27729bc0ed
PS my wife just looked over my shoulder and said NO YOU ARE NOT
LOL, my wife does that all the time and some times I'm not looking at fish.
 
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