Opinions needed on using Red Slime Remover in a reef..

groupergenius

Active Member
Thought I had dinoflagellates, but I guess it turns out to be a type of cyanobacteria. I have been siphoning this stuff out and it's just coming back stronger. The tank has major flow throughout the tank. I have used RSR before in a FOWLR tank with no ill effects, but never in a tank with lots of corals.
 

perfectdark

Active Member
Im not sure what is in RSR, I am assuming its an antibiotic of some sort. I used EM Tabs before and 2 things I noticed, it kills coraline algea so any corals that use coraline will be affected by it. And your nitrates soar through the roof, water changes frequently are needed.
 

rebelprettyboy

Active Member
I used chemiclean. And it worked great.
U only use a small smount of it really small. And it works like magic. You put it in the tank for 48 hours and do at least a 10% water change after that or 20 percent one of the other I did a 25 percent to be sure.
I constantly tested during the 48 hours ran 6 test and nothing changed in the water levels. And the cyna disappeared. And havent seen it since. I also have a big clean up crew for a 30. But it works really good.
only one SMALL PROBLEM. Did kill of some of my coraline and faded the purple a bit. Not really bad at all, but in a weeks time they were colored up again. Just my experience with it
 

mscarpena

Member
I agree with wango, but it happens. Dino's and cyano are different in my opion. If you have the red slime use chemi-clean and it is garunteed to take care of it. I have to use it about once per year and I don't know why. It is never a re-ocurring issue with either of my tanks. If it is the brown slimy stuff the cemi-clean will not take care of it. I bought a coral with the brown stuff on it and battled it for about 2 years. WHat finally get rid of it was a blue striped rabbit fish. It was gone in a few days and it has not come back. Also the rabbit fish ate my zoo's so I got rid of the fish about 2-3 months ago and no dino's have returned.
 
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nemo_66

Guest
get rid of it the natural way. the secret to keeping a good healthy tank is everything must be the most natural way it would occor in a real reef. i had some of this slimy brown stuff for a couple of months. it bothered the crap out of me since it was my DT. my brother gave me the most simple solution, "go buy more snails." i thought it wasnt going to work, but in 2 weeks it was all gone.
so for cyano, i would get the snails said above. maybe turn one of your powerheads toward the ground to move the sand around a little, but just a little. this is how i got the cyano out of my pervious tank.
 

groupergenius

Active Member
Originally Posted by WangoTango
http:///forum/post/2551511
IMO, find out what's causing it and get rid of it the natural way.
-Justin
Believe me, I've been trying. This tank has 50x turnover in it. This stuff is growing on powerheads, in the overflow, on my filter socks in the sump.
I'm considering leaving the lights off for 3 days straight after sucking all the junk out for the 20th time.
Nitrates-nitrites-ammonia all 0 or undetectable. Calcium-400, Alk-8.5dKh, Mg-1340, Ph-8.0
What natural ways do you suggest? I really don't want to chemically attack this stuff.
 
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nemo_66

Guest
i have roughly 60x turnover and my tank is mostly softy, with some LPS. and turnover doesnt mean anything if you dont have your powerhead placed right. i could have 100x turnover and all the powerhead is pushing upward, and the bottom of the tank will recieve no flow, understand that? seems sorta confusing, but its simple.
another posibility that no one mentioned was that your lights may be old, and need replacing. when a bulb gets old, it will lose its color, like 10k, or 20k or whatever. when the blub gets old, the spectrum will go down, giving you a bad spectrum, causing algae, or in this case cyano, growth.
 
D

dennis210

Guest
Your question "Can I use the cyano remover safely in a reef?" YES you can.
One tank I help care for is in a beauty shop and this lady's son set up the 72 g bow with sump and left for college. I got the call 3 weeks later. Tank was covered in cyano. She was doing everything she had been told and not overfeeding. I added 2 powerheads (Hydor Koralia's) and made sure flow was even around rock work and across bottom. Added 36 more red legged hermits, nassarius snails, and marginetta snails (12 each). One week later no difference. Added the powdered cyano remover as per directions - 4 days later not one spot cyano and no ill affects! Two friends have also tried everything to remove naturally and when battle was lost this stuff worked without hurting corals.
 

earnit33

Member
I agree with above response, I used RSR once and haven't seen any more after a couple of days,But I did have to turn my hang on protein skimmer off,because of micro bubbles it caused.
 

sebranek

New Member
I used the stuff by blue life and it worked great. Just get it over with and get you tank clean.. THE longer you wait the more your corals will suffer. I have snails, crabs, SPS, LPS, soft corals, clams, worms, mushrooms and had no ill effects.
 

spanko

Active Member
Red Slime (Cyano Bacteria)
Cyano grows on top of nutrient rich areas of low flow. There are a number of things that need to be correct or possibly corrected to combat this without the use of chemical additives. The biggest thing is to get rid of the extra nutrients.
1. Evaluate your feeding. If you are feeding more than can be eaten in about 1-2 minutes it is too much and the remainder of it is falling to the rock and sand and becoming nutrient.
2. Evaluate your flow. If you have areas in the tank where there is little to no flow this can be corrected by adding power heads or repositioning the ones you already have. You don’t need to create sand storms just have water moving over the area to keep detritus suspended in the water column for removal by your filter – skimmer.
3. Evaluate your water changes. The solution to pollution is dilution! You want to continually remove unneeded nutrients as well as replace those things that are used by the system. 10% weekly is a good change schedule. Some do 20% every other week and some vary the schedule from there, but a good start is 10% per week.
4. Evaluate your lighting schedule. About 10 hours of daylight is all that is needed.
5. If you have a cyano outbreak do the above 4 items andh:
a. At water change time siphon off the cyano first. It will come up easily almost like a blanker.
b. After siphoning stir the affected areas a little to suspend any detritus for the water change and filtering - skimming removal.
c. Use a turkey baster now and at every water change in the future to again suspend the detritus for removal by the water change and your filtering – skimming.
Keeping nutrient levels low to non-existent will help to avoid cyano outbreaks and any algae outbreaks as well as keep your tank and you happy happy.
Hope that helps.
 

groupergenius

Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2563047
Red Slime (Cyano Bacteria)
Cyano grows on top of nutrient rich areas of low flow. There are a number of things that need to be correct or possibly corrected to combat this without the use of chemical additives. The biggest thing is to get rid of the extra nutrients.
1. Evaluate your feeding. If you are feeding more than can be eaten in about 1-2 minutes it is too much and the remainder of it is falling to the rock and sand and becoming nutrient.
2. Evaluate your flow. If you have areas in the tank where there is little to no flow this can be corrected by adding power heads or repositioning the ones you already have. You don’t need to create sand storms just have water moving over the area to keep detritus suspended in the water column for removal by your filter – skimmer.
3. Evaluate your water changes. The solution to pollution is dilution! You want to continually remove unneeded nutrients as well as replace those things that are used by the system. 10% weekly is a good change schedule. Some do 20% every other week and some vary the schedule from there, but a good start is 10% per week.
4. Evaluate your lighting schedule. About 10 hours of daylight is all that is needed.
5. If you have a cyano outbreak do the above 4 items andh:
a. At water change time siphon off the cyano first. It will come up easily almost like a blanker.
b. After siphoning stir the affected areas a little to suspend any detritus for the water change and filtering - skimming removal.
c. Use a turkey baster now and at every water change in the future to again suspend the detritus for removal by the water change and your filtering – skimming.
Keeping nutrient levels low to non-existent will help to avoid cyano outbreaks and any algae outbreaks as well as keep your tank and you happy happy.
Hope that helps.
Good write up Spanko, but what was perplexing me with this cyano:
1. I feed 5 days of the week. Only as much as the fish will eat in 30 seconds or less.
2. The flow throughout this tank is crazy. I have to move the sand everyday back into where it's blown completely to the bottom glass. If I had a good camcorder, you would see the swirling motion of this cyano. This cyano was growing on the sand, rock, Tunze 6045 powerheads, even in the flow entrance area of the overflows as well as on the outside of the micron filter socks in the sump. Main pump being 3600gph through sump.
3. 10% water change every week with tropic marine pro reef.
4. 2- 110w Actinic VHO for 10 hrs. 2- 250w Aquaconnect 12k MH 8 hrs.
5. Been siphoning and mixing sand almost daily.
Used the Ultra life RSR Wednesday and Thursday morning the cyano was undetectable. Did a 20% water change Thursday afternoon and haven't seen the tank since then. Will do another 10% Monday morning.
 

spanko

Active Member
Are you using tap water? What food are you feeding? Looking for a possible source of phosphate.
 

groupergenius

Active Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/2564850
Are you using tap water? What food are you feeding? Looking for a possible source of phosphate.
No tap water. I'm using a 75gpd RO/DI with TDS gauge. Still showing 0 tds coming out with 5 going in. I check my top off water for phosphates with Salifert and comes up 0, or undetectable. The food is Ocean Nutrition pellets and flake. I don't use any frozen foods because we don't have a freezer here at work.
 
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