Overflow question

fishytime

Member
Hi guys and gals.I am in the process of a 110g tank build and I THINK I have run into a bit of a problem. My tank has a plastic trim around the top so I am hoping that I can build the overflow so that the water level in the tank is above the bottom of the plastic trim. The problem is the tank has euro-bracing around the perimeter of the tank, leaving me only 3/4" from the bottom of the euro-bracing to the bottom of the plastic trim. Is this to small of a distance? Can I build my overflow boxes the same height as the bottom of the plastic trim?

 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Wheres it going in the tank? Middle, corner, off center? Is it a joint of 2 braces where it's going to go? Is the tank drilled?
The 3/4 clearance is going to be a little tight. But it's likely doable. 3/4 is plenty to give the flow you need. But getting things like your standpipe/return lines in there might be the biggest issue. Especially if you have to tweak it some once it's started up. Usually trying to silence one would be reason for this. Also periodic cleaning, removing somebody who got caught back there etc. Might have to build a work around of some sorts into the baffle to get to stuff later. Can you draw in paint very well? Draw up a sketch of what your thinking. I've got an idea or 2 if it'll be necessary for your needs. Get some accurate measurements of the glass euro-bracing etc.
 

fishytime

Member
The overflows will be dual corner herbie style. The tank is not drilled yet and the glass for the overflows isnt cut yet.Drain holes will be through the bottom. As it will be a herbie style drain I will need two holes 1 3/4" in each corner to accept the 1" bulkheads. So that means roughly a 9" x 4" overflow box in each corner. With that in mind I think getting into the overflow box shouldnt be to hard.Plus with only 3/4" from the top of the overflow to the bottom of the eurobracing, I will be able to completely fill in the gap with eggcrate so its unlikely any fish will make its way into the box( though not entirely out of the realm of possibility).Return holes will be through the back. I'm just concerned about the overflow box height. All the lfs dudes I have asked say that I should leave around 2" clearance from the top of the overflow to the bottom of the eurobracing.I REALLY dont want to look at the waterline. The eurobracing is 1/2", and never tried to use "paint' before but will give it a go.
 
F

flukes

Guest
Could you just build them out of acrylic? Here is a pic of one that I built and used black acrylic. Just an idea….
 

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Originally Posted by fishytime
http:///forum/post/2530077
The overflows will be dual corner herbie style. The tank is not drilled yet and the glass for the overflows isnt cut yet.Drain holes will be through the bottom. As it will be a herbie style drain I will need two holes 1 3/4" in each corner to accept the 1" bulkheads. So that means roughly a 9" x 4" overflow box in each corner. With that in mind I think getting into the overflow box shouldnt be to hard.Plus with only 3/4" from the top of the overflow to the bottom of the eurobracing, I will be able to completely fill in the gap with eggcrate so its unlikely any fish will make its way into the box( though not entirely out of the realm of possibility).Return holes will be through the back. I'm just concerned about the overflow box height. All the lfs dudes I have asked say that I should leave around 2" clearance from the top of the overflow to the bottom of the eurobracing.I REALLY dont want to look at the waterline. The eurobracing is 1/2", and never tried to use "paint' before but will give it a go.
I dont see why it's a problem.
Cant imagine why you would need the 2". Why the herbie standpipe BTW? I understand 'em just dont see 'em much around here.
 
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