ph

geoj

Active Member
How often do you do water changes and would you do more?
Do you have a glass top?
What is your readings for: Calcium, Alkalinity (dKH), Phosphate?
There are acids that neutralize the alkaline minerals, mainly carbonic acid from waste decomposition and CO2 from algae respiration. So in simple terms if you don’t have enough alkaline minerals in the correct proportions meaning the Alk is low, the pH will be low.
 

joel911

Member
i have the same problem cant get the PH to stay on 8.4 whatever i do after a few days it drops down to 7.8
i have tried seachem marin buffer, it whent straight up to 8.4 but after a week its back down to 7.8,
Originally Posted by GeoJ
http:///forum/post/3179778
There are acids that neutralize the alkaline minerals, mainly carbonic acid from waste decomposition and CO2 from algae respiration.
don't laugh if it sounds stupid,
but perhaps I'm using to much carbon in the filter?
75 FOWLR 80lbs LR LS ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, 00.0 heat 79
filter 404 fluvial canister, one power head, glass top,
 

ophiura

Active Member
pH issues are complex.
Never add pH buffer unless you have an alkalinity issue and also know your calcium.
There is no issue with a pH of 7.8 if it is stable. You should take a reading of pH twice...after lights have been out all night and after lights have been on all day. Achieving 8.4 is like the "need for 0" on nitrates which is often not achievable and certainly not necessary.
Glass tops and lack of circulation can lead to low pH, and buffers will not resolve it. This needs more aeration, more circulation with powerheads and perhaps a good clean of a filter (eg if a cannister). In fact, even lack of circulation in the house can cause this in some cases. It is tested by taking a gallon of water and aerating it with a air pump for about an hour. If pH of that water is higher after that time, it is lack of aeration that is causing the problem.
A tank with a high nutrient load problem may also have low pH and again, buffers will not typically resolve it. THis needs to be resolved with water changes, better maintenance, lower feeding/stocking levels.
The only pH issue that will be resolved with buffer is a low alkalinity problem and that needs to be tested separately. If you add buffer, plus calcium additives (eg purple up) you can be causing serious imbalances in the tank if you are not monitoring your pH, alk and calcium.
 

geoj

Active Member
If we have new tanks then we should start with the acid CO2 from algae respiration. CO2 neutralizes some alkaline minerals we can’t stop this from happening but if we take the Glass tops off and have good circulation like Ophiura is saying then the CO2 will escape the water faster and affect the alkalinity less. A shut up house will have some affect on the amount of CO2 in the water also.
If we have older tanks then we should start with the carbonic acid from waste decomposition. It neutralizes some alkaline minerals we can’t stop this from happening ether but we can do a big cleaning use better maintenance, lower feeding/stocking as Ophiura is saying. Now there are us lazy people that can’t keep up with the maintenance of those highly fed FOWLR tanks and reefs that use up alkaline minerals do to growth of corals, we would have chronically low alkalinity with out dosing alkaline minerals. We can every time alkalinity drops to 8dkh add those alkaline minerals back. It is not simple but you can learn how.
 
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