phosphate reactor ?
- Thread starter salt210
- Start date
scsinet
Active Member
Phosban type reactors work great to keep in control the inevitable introduction and buildup of trace amounts of phosphates.
They are not designed to solve a phosphate problem that has devolved to the point of causing serious algae problems. You need to solve the serious algae problem first, then keep it under control with a reactor. If you don't solve the bigger issue first, you'll just be going through tons of expensive phosban media.
They are not designed to solve a phosphate problem that has devolved to the point of causing serious algae problems. You need to solve the serious algae problem first, then keep it under control with a reactor. If you don't solve the bigger issue first, you'll just be going through tons of expensive phosban media.
salt210
Active Member
when I get home I will take a phosphate reading. I have increased flow, lighting and have had my skimmer back up and running. I wouldnt say it is a very bad case but there is a large amount in the tank. the nitrates were very high but I got them down to around 40(they were around 100). what else could I do to help get it in check beyond water changes for the nitrates?
salt210
Active Member
my equipment consists of a wet/dry with bio-balls and a nautilus TE skimmer, 2 modded koralia 4s and a UV sterilizer the only thing that I can think of that could be creating the trates would be the sponge inside the filter that stops the bubbles from entering the sump. I could possibly not be cleanbing that enough. there is also what looks like dirt below bioballs. any suggestions and I will be glad to try them. the tank is lightly stocked
scsinet
Active Member
Well the dirt in the bio-balls is detritus, which is a breeding ground for nitrates.
Perhaps phosphates aren't your issue but rather nitrates.
Wet dry filters need to be kept clean. Gunk building up in the balls, below them, or in the filter pads will cause problems.
The best thing to do is do a water change and keep all of the water you remove from the tank. Use that water to rinse off your bio-balls and get any built up gunk in the filter removed (a wet/dry vac works very well for this), and change any filter pads.
Perhaps phosphates aren't your issue but rather nitrates.
Wet dry filters need to be kept clean. Gunk building up in the balls, below them, or in the filter pads will cause problems.
The best thing to do is do a water change and keep all of the water you remove from the tank. Use that water to rinse off your bio-balls and get any built up gunk in the filter removed (a wet/dry vac works very well for this), and change any filter pads.
salt210
Active Member
I planned on doing a change this weekend anyways, so Ill clean the balls and bottom of the sump as well. Ive looked at the balls multiple times and never seen anything on them. is it there and I just dont see it? I checked the phosphates and my kit only goes to 10ppm and its there. I picked up a reactor, but I am not going to hook it up till I get this in check. My LFS had one that was rasonably priced so I picked it up. The store is usually pretty expensive.
nitrates are still at 40
nitrates are still at 40
scsinet
Active Member
Originally Posted by salt210
http:///forum/post/2645764
210 with about 100lbs
Hmmm... yeah not enough live rock IMO to handle a full bioload without the wet dry...
I mentioned cleaning out the wet/dry because of this remark:
there is also what looks like dirt below bioballs.
http:///forum/post/2645764
210 with about 100lbs
Hmmm... yeah not enough live rock IMO to handle a full bioload without the wet dry...
I mentioned cleaning out the wet/dry because of this remark:
there is also what looks like dirt below bioballs.
andy51632
Member
Yes you will have to keep your bioballs. I would make it a point to clean 1/3 of your bioballs every month with Aquarium water. Stick them in a bucket with your aquarium water and shake and stir them around pretty aggressively. Do that a couple of times and put them back in your filter.
Your best bet down the road would be to add about 100-150lbs more base or lr to your tank or sump. Increase your flow with powerheads. Then you will be able to slowly remove your bioballs from your filter. You will not need them because your live rock will do their job plus they will not add the nitrate to the water like your bio balls do.
Your best bet down the road would be to add about 100-150lbs more base or lr to your tank or sump. Increase your flow with powerheads. Then you will be able to slowly remove your bioballs from your filter. You will not need them because your live rock will do their job plus they will not add the nitrate to the water like your bio balls do.