phosphate #

u mike

Member
I just tested for phosphate. the test was under 0.1 . with that I am doing a water change with 10 gal of distilled water for the first time. about how many water changes will it take to lower that # to closer to zero.
 
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tizzo

Guest
.1 isn't all THAT bad. But how big is your tank and how big are your water changes??
 
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tizzo

Guest
If you are consistently doing 10 gallons a week and your phosphates stay around .1, then I wouldn't stress over it and I wouldn't go through any great lengths to correct it, but if your doing the changes and the number creeps up instead of going down or staying consistent, then I would get a little more aggressive.
If they get around .14, then I'd prolly do something to fix them.
Do you have a photometer or are you testing with a liquid kit??
 
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tizzo

Guest
OH!! But to answer your question... If you want them to zero, then try to find out how your adding them, ie food or liquid anything your putting in the tank, then I'd do a few 20 gallon changes.
But if you don't change the cause then they will just keep coming back.
 

u mike

Member
Originally Posted by Tizzo
http:///forum/post/3139042
OH!! But to answer your question... If you want them to zero, then try to find out how your adding them, ie food or liquid anything your putting in the tank, then I'd do a few 20 gallon changes.
But if you don't change the cause then they will just keep coming back.
the reason for the test is to figure why I am having such a alage attack , i have posted this in past post . I read where they say tap water is not good. I have always used tap in my tank.That is why i was checking for phosphate. now I have to search further for more info to stop my problem.
 
what alge are you seeing, it might not just be phosphate, could be overfeeding, lack of CUC, exceeded your usuable lamplife, what substrate, type of rock, sometimes you get silica from the wrong rock and substrate, there are so many little things that can be the problem or part of the problem.
 
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tizzo

Guest
Fraggle is correct.
Algae, simply put is putting in more nutrients than your pulling out.
Are you adding any liquid anything?? Phyto? Coral vite? Anything like that??
That's be the first thing to know.
Feeding, old lights, etc
Oh but yes, tap water is DEFINITELY adding more nutrients to your water.
I'm not familiar with distilled water's tds either...
 

u mike

Member
Originally Posted by fraggle rock
http:///forum/post/3139061
what alge are you seeing, it might not just be phosphate, could be overfeeding, lack of CUC, exceeded your usuable lamplife, what substrate, type of rock, sometimes you get silica from the wrong rock and substrate, there are so many little things that can be the problem or part of the problem.
yes i understand there can be plenty of factors , right now looking into water . I do have cuc, cayno seems to be my problem . I have sucked out every time I have done water changes . don't want to lose all my sand .
next step will be to take out rock 1 by 1 clean then see what happens next.
 
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tizzo

Guest
Well, I'm not gonna lie, I don't know much about cyano. I know what I read, and because of personal experience, I don't believe half of it...
For example, cyano occurs in low flow areas. That's not entirely true. Cyano appears first in the areas where detritus settles. No matter how much flow you have there will alsways be a place for it to settle. THEN it appears in the highest flowing areas! Where nutrients are constantly being shot at it.
But as with any algae, it does boil down to nutrients. Your adding more than your removing and you have to figure out how.
 
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jetskiking

Guest
In all honesty you really want phosphates to be undetectable. Cyano feeds off of phosphates. Your numbers are probably alot higher than the test is letting on. Phosphates are funny like that. The cyano probably has a lot of the phosphates bound up and not in the water column. This will lead to lower readings than what actually exist.
 
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