Phosphates ?
- Thread starter jgolo
- Start date
reefreak29
Active Member
Phosphates are one of the primary contributors to the growth of algae in an aquarium. The presence of the materialized form of any type of phosphate is known as ortho-phosphates. Ortho-phosphates are created by the breakdown of simple and complex organic phosphates and are major contributors to the growth of algae. High levels of phosphates not only lead to algae blooms, but have even been thought to have a much greater impact on algae growth than nitrates. Although phosphates generally aren’t considered detrimental to the health of your fish in low amounts, excess phosphates above 4mg/l is indeed toxic to fish
Sources of Phosphates
Phosphates are introduced into your aquarium in many ways, even your tap water may contain phosphates. Other sources of phosphate include, but are not limited to, pH and KH buffers, carbon, fish food (and overfeeding) and even salt. Phosphates can even be generated within your aquarium through a heavy fish load, dead plant matter, undigested fish food in waste and even the dieing off of algae.
What To Do
In order to get a handle on phosphates, sources of phosphates need to be identified and eliminated (or reduced) and phosphates that are already present in your aquarium need to be removed.
Examine everything from fish food to salts and make sure that they contain little or no phosphates. If a product does contain phosphates, try to find a phosphate-free alternative. Make sure you are not over-feeding your fish or feeding them an inappropriate diet. Uneaten or undigested food is a source of phosphates.
Phosphates can be removed from your aquarium through good maintenance. Provided your tap water doesn’t have extremely high levels of phosphates, frequent water changes are your best bet to reducing phosphates. Unless you have strong currents that keep debris from settling on your substrate, you’ll need to vacuum thoroughly to remove any waste and uneaten food. Frequent water changes should not only keep phosphate levels down, but your fish will also appreciate the clean water.
Another method of eliminating phosphates is through the use of phosphate-absorbing products. These are made by various aquarium product manufactures and can be added to your filter. Most of these require good water flow. When using them, make sure you read and follow all directions. Since some of these products generate a lot of heat when initially placed in water, make sure you wet them before adding them to your filter.
Sources of Phosphates
Phosphates are introduced into your aquarium in many ways, even your tap water may contain phosphates. Other sources of phosphate include, but are not limited to, pH and KH buffers, carbon, fish food (and overfeeding) and even salt. Phosphates can even be generated within your aquarium through a heavy fish load, dead plant matter, undigested fish food in waste and even the dieing off of algae.
What To Do
In order to get a handle on phosphates, sources of phosphates need to be identified and eliminated (or reduced) and phosphates that are already present in your aquarium need to be removed.
Examine everything from fish food to salts and make sure that they contain little or no phosphates. If a product does contain phosphates, try to find a phosphate-free alternative. Make sure you are not over-feeding your fish or feeding them an inappropriate diet. Uneaten or undigested food is a source of phosphates.
Phosphates can be removed from your aquarium through good maintenance. Provided your tap water doesn’t have extremely high levels of phosphates, frequent water changes are your best bet to reducing phosphates. Unless you have strong currents that keep debris from settling on your substrate, you’ll need to vacuum thoroughly to remove any waste and uneaten food. Frequent water changes should not only keep phosphate levels down, but your fish will also appreciate the clean water.
Another method of eliminating phosphates is through the use of phosphate-absorbing products. These are made by various aquarium product manufactures and can be added to your filter. Most of these require good water flow. When using them, make sure you read and follow all directions. Since some of these products generate a lot of heat when initially placed in water, make sure you wet them before adding them to your filter.
frankthetank
Active Member
I posted something similar to this about 2 days ago.
Since the RO water I use tests 0 phosphates, I'm going to begin by reducing the amount I feed. I currently have fed every day to every other day. I will start feeding every 3 days and continue my 10% water changes. I hope this will take care of it. If this doesn't take care of it then I'm not sure what else to do.
I only run carbon about 5 days per month. And I use phosguard.
Since the RO water I use tests 0 phosphates, I'm going to begin by reducing the amount I feed. I currently have fed every day to every other day. I will start feeding every 3 days and continue my 10% water changes. I hope this will take care of it. If this doesn't take care of it then I'm not sure what else to do.
I only run carbon about 5 days per month. And I use phosguard.
aztec reef
Active Member
First of all, what test kits are you using?
larryndana
Active Member
Originally Posted by FranktheTank
I posted something similar to this about 2 days ago.
Since the RO water I use tests 0 phosphates, I'm going to begin by reducing the amount I feed. I currently have fed every day to every other day. I will start feeding every 3 days and continue my 10% water changes. I hope this will take care of it. If this doesn't take care of it then I'm not sure what else to do.
I only run carbon about 5 days per month. And I use phosguard.
feeding every two or three days isn't the answer to a phosphates problem. and the fish will just gorge their selves when you do feed them and starve until you feed again, i wouldn't like eating every two days or three. of course maybe i could loose a few pounds doing it,
I posted something similar to this about 2 days ago.
Since the RO water I use tests 0 phosphates, I'm going to begin by reducing the amount I feed. I currently have fed every day to every other day. I will start feeding every 3 days and continue my 10% water changes. I hope this will take care of it. If this doesn't take care of it then I'm not sure what else to do.
I only run carbon about 5 days per month. And I use phosguard.
feeding every two or three days isn't the answer to a phosphates problem. and the fish will just gorge their selves when you do feed them and starve until you feed again, i wouldn't like eating every two days or three. of course maybe i could loose a few pounds doing it,
rabid frog
Active Member
Try buying a Phosphate reactor. I am pleased with mine. It took my phosphates levels to 0, and my tap water tests at .2 I really dont have the option of hooking up a ro/di system in my apartment atm, and I cant go to the store every day to buy water. So this was a good alternative for me. They are not expensive either.
promisetbg
Active Member
Originally Posted by jgolo
:thinking: I can never get my Phosphates down to 0. Ranges from 0.1 to 0.5 ppm all the time . How can i get this down to 0. Or what makes it stay in this ranges.
Careful how much you feed, be certain you have enough & the right type of clean-up crew,don't overstock,test water source for PO-4,regular water changes,add a refugium.
No offense , but if you copy & paste someone else's article you should give the author credit.
:thinking: I can never get my Phosphates down to 0. Ranges from 0.1 to 0.5 ppm all the time . How can i get this down to 0. Or what makes it stay in this ranges.
Careful how much you feed, be certain you have enough & the right type of clean-up crew,don't overstock,test water source for PO-4,regular water changes,add a refugium.
No offense , but if you copy & paste someone else's article you should give the author credit.