Plans for 200DD build

[eric b 125]

So the actual build won't start until after I move in a few months but thought I'd share the planning process. DON'T LAUGH, because I don't have time to learn a CAD program and do fancy plans like the ones you see on RC... I have time for graph paper, Sharpies and scissors, haha.

 

[eric b 125]

The frame will be made w/ 2" square tube steel, 3/16" thick.
Here is how the top and bottom will be constructed. Each square is 2" and the dotted line at the top center of the image is where the overflow will be located.


This is a top-down view of the inside of the stand so far... The red is a 29 gallon ATO reservoir and the blue is a 40B sump. Two inches are left b/w the two tanks where wires will run. Calcium reactor and phosban reactor will fit to the left of the sump. To the right of the ATO reservoir will be a box (not sure of dimensions yet) with my DJ power strips and VorTech controllers. ATO controller and pH controller will velcro to the left side of the ATO reservoir...there's two inches clearance all around b/c of the framing.

 

[eric b 125]

The frame will be open on all sides for easy access.

Front:


The rear of the frame will have extra vertical supports. I will attach the LED hanging arms to these supports.

 

[veni vidi vici]

Adjustable feet?

 

[eric b 125]

The sides will be open:

 

[eric b 125]

I'm going to have a cabinet maker make the skin of the stand... not sure what style I want to go with and probably won't have a clue until I move. The skin will have counter-sunk rare earth magnets so the panels stick right to the frame. No doors. I'll use dynamat or something on the inside of the panels to keep sound down. I will probably leave the back open for humidity, especially since I'm keeping all of the electrical inside the stand. Was going to buy some sort of end table or night stand and mount the power strips and such in it, but I'd have to move it to take off the side panel and I don't want a ton of visible wires.

I will paint the reservoir completely black (to prevent algae growth from fuge light) except for a vertical band to view water level and keep lids on it to minimize adding to the humidity.