Please evaluate and help

saltfin

Member
I'm starting to feel a little lost here and need some good advice or to know if I'm on the correct path. I'd appreciate any help on the water chemistry. I feel like I'm going to just kill everything.
Took out old 3yr cc and now I am starting second week of new (2wk cultured) #60 DSB mixed with #30 Bacteria sand added during setup. Same 3yr old LR. and reused old tank water but added a 10% water chg. (260wPC 10k abd 50/50 actinic over 75g)
I am using Red Sea Kits:
Tank temp 78 Deg.
Specific G= 1.022 going for 1.023
PH=8.2 I'm shooting for 8.3
Alkalinity= Split between Normal and Low color chart I don't have a better kit yet sorry.
Nitrites=0
Nitrates=5 mg/l
Ammonia=0
Phosphates=0.15 mg/l How can I reduce these - I am very sparing on feeding but I do feed morn and night a little which is eaten in 2 to 3 min. Flake food and sometimes mysis shrimp and formula one
every other day I hang Green Seaweed Selects
Calcium=350 Best I can read I'm new at this - I'm trying to bring up with 2 level teaspoons mixed with a cup of main tank water poured into my tank over an hour period - 2 times a week.
How long does it take to get to say 425? I'm starting week 2.
I have only 1 turbo snail 4 blue legs and 1 scarlet. Is it time to look for more snails? My sand just started to look a little green/brn.
Should I go for a goby sand sifter - I already have a neon dottyback would they fight?
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
looks like everything is about right. Don't worry about a just before lights out ph of 8.2 vrs 8.3. Same for SG. Any of those values are excellent.
I don't know what your bioload is but if you have fish and it is 5ppm that also is excellent.
Calcium could be a little higher especially for corals. My calcium went from 250-300 ppm to 400ppm when I added crushed oyster shells in my filter box. Additionally the box is in a sump/refug and powered by a mag 5. So there is constant water flow through the oyster shells.
You may want to try more water flow through a calcium source like CC or oyster shells or even you new aragonite. Sure helped my calcium. I also use tap water which according to my local water authority has 60-100PPM calcium (or calcium carbonate) in the water. Combined with higher evaporation the water also could have contributed to my rise in calcium.
 

saltfin

Member
Thanks Bob - My load is 2 Yel Tangs2" - 1 Hippo 4" - 1 Neon Dotty2" and my land scaper Eng. Maroon Cln 3" I only have the main tank for now but want to set up a sump/refrug later down line and what else - plantlife. My tangs would have a time if I put in the main tank:D
 

jedininja

Member
Firts pff, disregard what Bob said about the pyster shel and that BS. You can find out more about most people's opinion on Bob's methods here:
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/109634/beaslbob
Your numbers are ok. With calcium, what are you using to dose? If you do not want to drip kalk, the best would be to use a 2 part additive. Your alk has to match you calcium fo rit to be usable. Your calcium is ok for softies though, and I am guessing that is what you are going to keep with that lighting.
I wouold not get any sand sifters. They will eat all the detrivores in your LS. A fighting conch would be much better.
Your SG should be a bit higher. I would shoot for 1.024-1.025
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member

Originally posted by saltfin
WOW:D

Yea isn't that amazing :D
I guess you gotta drip calc, set up a calcium reactor bubling carbon dioxide, or dose the two part stuff.:thinking:
Yet my calcium did rise up to 400ppm :eek:
Guess it is just too easy. :eek:
 

saltfin

Member
All comments are welcome with me. I evaluate everything then apply.
I have a lot of thoughts about the post mentioned and previous and current info. as well. With out getting to far into this, I need this sort of thing. With my trial and error, this info. I'll move forward. Thanks to all!
I believe in excellent water quality provided by the manufactures chemical input into store purchased RO/DI PLUS the Chemistry additions I need to include to get there. Water quality is actually many levels based on what we might think it should be. I drink tap water and it is ok for human consumption but not my fish (metals, phosphates-etc. RO/DI is a better starting point in my case in my area. I'm in the country side and the last one on the 2 1/2" water line. How stagnet is it compared to thousands of users in a city (water changes ??). Now my corals need a little more additives to boot. Again better water guality required. My fish were fine at the other level. We have plants on earth to provide us oxygen and us carbon dixoide for them - nice trade ??. I believe the ocean likes plants as well and are of tremendous help. I also believe the ocean gets water changes. Earthquakes, volcanos, slow and tremendous currents, tidepools Anartica vs tropical effects, Hurrican storms you name it. Continuous changes. I realize certain ph, ca and the like still remain very stable. Just amazing. I've came a long way thanks to all comments. I've got a longer path yet to catch up. A cake isn't one if all the right chemicals aren't in the right place at the right time.:notsure:
 

saltfin

Member
Hey - you gotta love this - Last night the wife set up plane/car tickets for some island hopping for a couple weeks. Ummmmm wonder where, lets see, United States, Island hopping.
:D Hawaii:D
Gotta pack - lets see, hydrometer, Red Sea test kits, baggies am I forgetting anything??:jumping:
 

jedininja

Member
I thinks its more like bail, as in money to bail you out of jail when you get arrested for collecting in the reefs.
 

saltfin

Member
Well looks like I better just take the submarine ride in the corals or tie my hands behind me and snorkel. I do not want pics of sharks - tangs will do just fine
 
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