Plumbing Set up for new 240 Tank

[clsimons29]

I am in the process of upgrading to a new tank and would appreciate any tips or tricks on plumbing set up for my current and future equipment. Please reference my tank diary for more info under share your aquarium "New 240 tank diary" https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/329731/new-240-tank-diary#post_2726775
Tank is 72" x 30" x 25" appox 240 Gallons. I have one 65 Gallon and one 35 gallon sump, I would like to use both if possible but could drop the 35 if needed. I have skimmer that can be in/out of sump, 2 little giant pumps from my old tank (only 1 is available right now) and a new Dart pump for the system. I plan on using nanoballs in the sump or overflow(any ideas), one sump as a fuge with a deep sand bed, 36W UV, nuclear canister filter on a bypass for occasional use(can drop if it becomes a pain), I am planning on adding a 1/3HP chiller if I do not upgrade my MH to LED and would like to add a fludized sand bed filter(?) and a calcium reactor w/C02 & ozone. I am planning on having lab grade probes with PC monitoring and RO autotop system. I currently use a 4 stage .25 micron RO system w/5th stage DI.
My stand will be finished this week and I hope to start the plumbing work soon so any ideas or tips will be appreciated as this is my 1st big tank full plumb job and I will appreciate everyones experience/input.
Sample plumbing pic attached sorry it is a basic drawing.
THANKS

 

[indigobluetc]

Do you by chance have a bigger version of that pic?

 

[clsimons29]

Larger pics, hope this is a little bit better

 

[indigobluetc]

I have heard bad things about those check valves "backflow valve" I heard they can clog up and cause probs.

 

[acrylic51]

Check valves aren't a bad thing, just they do lead some people into false security IMO......They do work, but they have been known to fail, and they do restrict flow some....I prefer to use them in conjunction with syphon break holes, but the check valves I use are clear and are double union and can be visually inspected when tank is down and can be rebuilt when needed.
I would prefer to use gate valves over ball valves on most of my plumbing....costs alittle more, but definitely easier to fine tune flow than with a ball valve......I also like to use unions where I might need to pull a pump or such out of line as well.....Try not to make tons of sharp bends which will restrict flow as well....If possible you might want to look into spa flex line, which could eliminate some fittings and won't cut down on flow....HTH

 

[clsimons29]

Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/2729470
Check valves aren't a bad thing, just they do lead some people into false security IMO......They do work, but they have been known to fail, and they do restrict flow some....I prefer to use them in conjunction with syphon break holes, but the check valves I use are clear and are double union and can be visually inspected when tank is down and can be rebuilt when needed.
I would prefer to use gate valves over ball valves on most of my plumbing....costs alittle more, but definitely easier to fine tune flow than with a ball valve......I also like to use unions where I might need to pull a pump or such out of line as well.....Try not to make tons of sharp bends which will restrict flow as well....If possible you might want to look into spa flex line, which could eliminate some fittings and won't cut down on flow....HTH

I appreciate the response and the information! My check valve is a clear double union type, once I have the tank set up I am going to check shutoff overflow, as I will not have any low level out/in lines I may have enough room in my sump and overflows to prevent overflow unless I get the siphon effect, if this happens I do plan on putting siphon holes on the output loc-lines. I agree with you on the pump 100%, is one of the problems with my current tank. I will be using some fixed PVC, but I also have 2" flexible PVC that I will be using for the exact purpose you mentioned. I am a little worried about the two t joints int he lines 1 as a bypass for the canister filter so I don't have to run it on a seperate pump or closed loop and the 2nd to split the lines to the overflow returns so I can go with the 1 pump. I am also debating between the two sump idea on one pump or two and having my skimmer in-line or in sump? I got the Dart pump so I could go to one pump and the skimmer can go either way, ideas? Also, with wanting to add a calcium reactor and ozone, co2 any ideas for setting it up now for these future adds? (I have no experience w/these three items)
Thanks

 

[acrylic51]

I'm still alittle fuzzy on the diagram, but I see you have to drain lines going to the sump 1. I assume your going to let it gravity feed to sump 2? Why not just take 1 of your drain lines and split it to feed sump 2 to get the water to you RDSB????? Just a thought!!!!!! In your sump 2 diagram are you using macro rock or bioballs? If your using bioballs I don't see any real purpose of that; I'd think you'd be better off using LR, but your intention might be to cut down on micro bubbles.......

 

[acrylic51]

What type of skimmer are you planning for the setup?

 

[salt210]

sorry if I missed it if you posted about it, but you could use the 35 as an external fuge and have the 65 for your main sump with skimmer and any other equipment your adding. and of course you did. but just another idea

 

[clsimons29]

Thanks for all the replies, sorry I didn't get back to this until this morning, my wife was gone all weekend at a CE meeting so I got to bach it and promptly spent the weekend doing nothing but conqureing a new Wi game..

.
We got the stand in and placed it at the clinic and we are going to level it this week as we have some major h/l spots on the floor. I will post a pic of the new stand later today. We then spent some time trying to figure out how we are going to get all this stuff in the stand and how to plumb it as we are running into some issues and can't do it like I originally thought. I would like to use the two sumps so I can have more stages and seperate filtration but we can not fit both sumps under the stand and would have to go external which is a problem as the tank is in our waiting room. The other issue I face is the internal overflow gates on the large sump are fixed and are higher than the gate on the smaller sump which does have an adjustment. The smaller sump is also already drilled on the end for a 1 1/2" bulkhead. I would need to raise the smaller sump to gravity drain into the large sump or have another pump to feed but I worry about overflow issues. I also looked at splitting the sumps seperatly and feeding 1 overflow line into each and having the pump pull off of both sumps from a joined line. I also have the issue of my skimmers gate valve being lower than the sump water levels unless I remove the gate in the small sump which makes it's water level lower than the large sump, or I would need to raise the skimmer and plumb it out of the sump which is not an issue except I may have to raise it higher than my stand allows.
My goal w/seperation was to skim, UV, etc my water prior to reaching my fuge to minimize coeped loss and discharge the water from these over nan-balls etc and then have water into fuge w/ deep sand bed and LR. Skimmer is an AquaC EV 240. Large glass sump is not yet drilled, small acrylic sump is drilled.
Issue Summary:
1) Both sumps can not fit under stand w/o turning 1 perpendicular to the other. Leaves little room for other stuff.
2) Small sump gate(adj) is lower than large sump gates (non-adj)
3) Skimmer gate valve is lower than water level in small sump see #2. requires raising of skimmer/sump or external skimmer plumbing and raise.
4) If I raise smaller sump I may have an overflow issue into larger sump at power interruption.
5) If I plumb for two pumps then 1 pump is overpowered for the job (dart).
Possible Solutions:
1) external plumb of small sump to side of tank, must raise and cover as bench. Skimmer issue.
2) External plumb both sumps into treatment room behind wall, (my wife will not like this, space issue, lines must be above 1 - 1 1/2 ft to go through wall)
Gives longer length to pump head)
3) Only use the large sump under the tank. How do I get everything I want and set up with skimmer needing to be raised higher than water level.
Sorry a lot of stuff but we were tossing around a lot of ideas, any help is appreciated. I wil try to get some exact measurments and pics etc to post.

 

[acrylic51]

I think you can use 2 small sumps, but don't think you really need to though.....I would go with 1 large sump and if designed correctly you should be able to squeeze everything in there....I really don't see a need for a canister filter on the system, and as far as water being UV'd and such before entering your fuge.....give the fuge raw water and make it work like it should....

 

[acrylic51]

Sorry forgot to mention check out a site melevsreef dot com....He has alot of good info and build ideas that might help you out with your dual sump setup.....HTH.

 

[mumbulog]

I suggest going with the 65 as a sump and fuge and baffle it out. I had a 55 fuge/sump under my 125 and had plenty of space. This will save on extra pumps and then everything will fit under your stand.