Pump output reducing!!! PLease help
- Thread starter irnman51
- Start date
dreeves
Active Member
From the pump up...
Put a union, then a ball valve....next a 1/2" "T"...continue the return line to the tank.
With the "T"..run it out about an inch, put a 1/2"ball valve, then continue that line back to the sump.
With the two ball valves, you can reduce the pressure to the tank, while at the same time reducing the back pressure on the pump...also, this line could feed a future refuge, and at minimum circulate the sump water a little.
Easier then it sounds...I have this setup on both my sumps, along with a line to a sink for effortless water changes.
Put a union, then a ball valve....next a 1/2" "T"...continue the return line to the tank.
With the "T"..run it out about an inch, put a 1/2"ball valve, then continue that line back to the sump.
With the two ball valves, you can reduce the pressure to the tank, while at the same time reducing the back pressure on the pump...also, this line could feed a future refuge, and at minimum circulate the sump water a little.
Easier then it sounds...I have this setup on both my sumps, along with a line to a sink for effortless water changes.
irnman51
Member
hello all..
again thank you for the replies..
Dreeves, this goes out to you ... your suggestion sounds great and very benifical... although i really don't get how the end product is going to look like or where to start.. if you would/ould please send me a pic or diagram on this pipe work.. it would really help me out thank you..
again thank you for the replies..
Dreeves, this goes out to you ... your suggestion sounds great and very benifical... although i really don't get how the end product is going to look like or where to start.. if you would/ould please send me a pic or diagram on this pipe work.. it would really help me out thank you..
reefnut
Active Member
Originally posted by dreeves
From the pump up...
Put a union, then a ball valve....next a 1/2" "T"...continue the return line to the tank.
With the "T"..run it out about an inch, put a 1/2"ball valve, then continue that line back to the sump.
Just a question but wouldn't the main line valve need to be on the downstream side of the "T" fitting? This would allow for cutting the main flow to the tank and forcing the extra flow into the sump.
krux
Member
this allows you to circulate water back into the system without needing to add a ball valve to the return line to crank back the output. this backpressure would eventually wear on the pump, causing it to wear out sooner. the t and ball valve lets the water still move through the pump at the velocity it wants to, but the excess water never goes to the tank, thus never needing to come back down the overflow which would otherwise require a very large flow rating. if you want more flow to the tank, you close the t assembly a bit and more goes up, want less flow and you open it more, keeping more water in the sump area. also as mentioned this t can later be used for a fuge, or it can be used for waterchanges, or a chiller, or a calcium reactor... lots of good reasons to have an extra t in the system.
fwiw unions are a good idea, but i didnt draw them in for the sake of keeping things uncomplicated looking.
fwiw unions are a good idea, but i didnt draw them in for the sake of keeping things uncomplicated looking.
irnman51
Member
Dr,
That is a great setup... alot of pvc though. Was thinking of a design that went a lil something like this...
O
I I
I I______________
(_____1 1/2" ____ .. )
.................. I I
........... ......... I I
....... .... .................. O
The 1 1/2 " thick pipe about 3' running along the back base of the tank on the ends of the 3' pipe 1'' elbows 1 up for (return to tank) and 1 downward (from sump pump).
The pump will have a 3/4'' to 5/8" adapter connect to that a 5/8" hose about 2 ft.. that connected to the 1 downward one..
The other end will have a female elbow and a male adapter with 3/4'' to 1'' will be attached with about 2' hose returning to the tank..Upward hose..
Yet i still need to get my overflow box connected and flowing...
Let me know what you think...
That is a great setup... alot of pvc though. Was thinking of a design that went a lil something like this...
O
I I
I I______________
(_____1 1/2" ____ .. )
.................. I I
........... ......... I I
....... .... .................. O
The 1 1/2 " thick pipe about 3' running along the back base of the tank on the ends of the 3' pipe 1'' elbows 1 up for (return to tank) and 1 downward (from sump pump).
The pump will have a 3/4'' to 5/8" adapter connect to that a 5/8" hose about 2 ft.. that connected to the 1 downward one..
The other end will have a female elbow and a male adapter with 3/4'' to 1'' will be attached with about 2' hose returning to the tank..Upward hose..
Yet i still need to get my overflow box connected and flowing...
Let me know what you think...
richierich2000
Member
are you relly using a sump pmup or a aqarium pump in a sump?
dreeves
Active Member
I didn't really understand your diagram...maybe try paint or something similar and attach it to your post.
A side note...with the piece of hose you are looking at. Go with flexible PVC. A bit more expensive, but resistant to kinking as vinyl tubing is.
Something else I have found. Having the overflow drain and the spray bar (or whatever you use to disperse water back into the tank) connected to flex PVC then to schedule 40 PVC allows for flexibility at these two locations. Adding a ball valve right to the back of the tank for the return line also allows for the water pressure to be either stopped or slowed for feeding. I didn't want to go to the basement each time for the feeding. If your sump is under the tank, probably not needed.
A side note...with the piece of hose you are looking at. Go with flexible PVC. A bit more expensive, but resistant to kinking as vinyl tubing is.
Something else I have found. Having the overflow drain and the spray bar (or whatever you use to disperse water back into the tank) connected to flex PVC then to schedule 40 PVC allows for flexibility at these two locations. Adding a ball valve right to the back of the tank for the return line also allows for the water pressure to be either stopped or slowed for feeding. I didn't want to go to the basement each time for the feeding. If your sump is under the tank, probably not needed.
irnman51
Member
Dr.
forgive the horrible drawing ...
it some what discribes what i have a the current moment ..
I have been thinking about your "T" insert a lot...
The pump will have a 3/4'' to 5/8" adapter connect to that a 5/8" hose about 2 ft.. that connected to the 1 downward one..
The other end will have a female elbow and a male adapter with 3/4'' to 1'' will be attached with about 2' hose returning to the tank..Upward hose..
I am currently searching for an used overflow.. to complete the system...
forgive the horrible drawing ...
it some what discribes what i have a the current moment ..
I have been thinking about your "T" insert a lot...
The pump will have a 3/4'' to 5/8" adapter connect to that a 5/8" hose about 2 ft.. that connected to the 1 downward one..
The other end will have a female elbow and a male adapter with 3/4'' to 1'' will be attached with about 2' hose returning to the tank..Upward hose..
I am currently searching for an used overflow.. to complete the system...
oo bubbagump oo
Member
Originally posted by dreeves
From the pump up...
Put a union, then a ball valve....next a 1/2" "T"...continue the return line to the tank.
With the "T"..run it out about an inch, put a 1/2"ball valve, then continue that line back to the sump.
With the two ball valves, you can reduce the pressure to the tank, while at the same time reducing the back pressure on the pump...also, this line could feed a future refuge, and at minimum circulate the sump water a little.
Easier then it sounds...I have this setup on both my sumps, along with a line to a sink for effortless water changes.
Ok, so if your pumps output is say, 400 Gallons Per Hour, HALF of that is going to the tank right. And the other half is going BACK to the fuge, I think one of these would happen....
1) Your fuge will overflow.
2) The sump will drain your tank because it is DRAINING 400gph and REPLACING only 200gph, right!
I barely graduated high school, so if I'm wrong don't rag on me, please!
dreeves
Active Member
You are wrong...if you noticed in my photos...there are about 5 ball valves...on on the main return to tank (1 inch), 1 on the first T (3/4") feeding the pressure relief, and also the direct line to the sink across the room for water changes, both of these are 1/2"...the next T goes to the sump, it too has a 1/2" ball valve to regulate pressure. Once balanced out...minimal adjustments is all that is needed every now and then....I also have a ball valve on top the tank to shut the spray bar down for feeding, and a T below that supply a 10 gallon hex which sits next to the main tank. The 10 has its own overflow back to the sump.