QT question

[dano]

I have a question about setting up a QT. I have a Powder Blue Tang that has white spots that I am sure is Ich. I also have 2 Firefish, 2 Clowns 2 Cleaner Shrimp and assorted snails and hermits. The Tang is the only fish so far that has shown any symptons. My main tank is a 58 gallon with 50 lbs of live rock.
I have an old 37 gallon eclipse system that I have been using to store saltwater for water changes. Can I just use the water that is in the 37 gal. as a hospital tank, or should I mix in some water from my main tank? Also, do you recommend putting all of the fish in the QT to medicate? If so, for how long?

 

[beth]

If the water in your main tank is in good condition, I would take out half the water in the water tank and replace it with water from your tank. Then use the water you take from the water tank to replace the water you took out from your main tank....can you follow that? LOL
Yes, you do need to treat all your fish, but not your inverts. You do not need to medicate. The best treatment for ick is hyposalinity. Here is the procedure:
O.S.T. stands for Osmotic Shock Therapy which is commonly referred to in the hobby as hyposalinity [water that is deficient in sea salt]. Essentially, O.S.T. simply places the infectors [Cryptocaryon parasite---ick] in an environment in which they cannot survive while the host, (or infected fish) can. This remedy WILL NOT work in reef systems or invert tanks as it incorporates lowering the specific gravity of the entire system [hospital tank] to 1.009. Inverts, corals, live rock and sand can not tolerate this lowered salinity level.
Dropping the salinity is accomplished just as you would do a normal water change. However, you are simply replenishing your tank with fresh RO/DI water---not salt water. Monitor the lowering closely so as to not reduce it too fast. Usually over a period of 48 hours is fine. The bacteria colony which is the biological support for your tank will survive; the fish will survive, but the ich will not. By lowering the salinity, you will also be lowering the osmotic pressure of the water. Fish tolerate this treatment very well, in fact, once the water becomes hyposaline, you will likely note a significant improvement in your fishes' health and appetite. There is no reason to fear this treatment.
Your goal is to drop the specific gravity to 1.009 [48-hrs] gradually. Once all signs of the parasite are gone, then keep your fish in this hypo-saline condition for 3-4 wks. If all is well, then you can gradually [over the course of 4-5 days] bring the specific gravity [salinity] back up to normal levels . If all is well after a week, then return the fish to their main tank.
When the fish are eating, offer them quality and varied food soaked in garlic.

 

[dano]

Thank you the detailed answer! Wish me luck!
One final question, any hints on capturing the fish, other than taking out all of the live rock?
Also, I will never introduce another fish without qt!

 

[seaguru]

Re-posting FYI...
Suggest you read the post on hypo by h2oski to learn a lot and read the post on refractometers, lots of good info. If you did not use a refractometer during your hypo there is no assurance you were at the 1.009 the whole time! Unfortunately the recent craze about using hypo has lead many to believe it is easy. (it is, only if you have the right equipment!) I am currently preparing to use hypo in my Q setup, but have read for hours and purchased the right equipment.
Just to illustrate the hydrometer issue... I have used an AqSystems SeaTest swing arm hydrometer for years but it only went down to 1.017. So when I decieded I would try this hyposalinity thing I just went and spent (wasted) $10 on another SeaTest swing-arm, but the current models went down to 1.001 and had dual scales SG/ppt. Thought I was doing good but noticed a .004 difference in readings from my old/new ones. Not satisfied I did more research and spent $35 on the German made Areometer type hydrometer. Was impressed with the few reviews... well it measured even further off from the other two! So which reading was correct??? So after forking out/wasting $45 I finally decided the only way was to spend $70 on a refractometer! (which I tried to avoid from the start).
Well that was the best spent $70 I have ever spent! The refractometer gives instant direct readings and is simple/easy to use, is well made, and is most of all RELIABLE. THE READING IS WITHOUT A DOUBT CORRECT!!! So now I am ready to try hypo... Oh and one more thing, I also have a pH alkalinity buffer by Kent Marine to buffer the water while at 1.009 because it is harder to maintain steady 8.0-8.4 pH at lower salinity. The last item to complete the hyposalinity kit is a pH test kit to monitor the pH along with the salinity. So yes hypo can be easy if you have the right stuff, otherwise it is debatable if you achieved true hyposalinity and kept your water parameters high/correct for the health of your fish... Just offering my experience for the record. Regards, Joe.

 

[dano]

Thank you all for your help! <img src="graemlins//angel.gif" border="0" alt="[angel]" />