flamingkingofhe
Active Member
perhaps even a grounding probe [especially if you are going to place tangs and angels in the QT].
what is this
also does carbon remove medications?
what is this
also does carbon remove medications?
qt
- Thread starter flamingkingofhe
- Start date
Grounding Tanks
by: Stanley Brown
Posted to The Breeders Registry emailing list, Wednesday 23rd December 1998.
Years ago (before the BR) I spent time researching induced voltages and the effects of grounding for an article for MFM. I found voltages ranging from millivolts to > 100 VAC! In many of the tanks tested with higher voltages an assortment of undesirable behaviors of the inhabitants was reported (not to mention some of the employees getting shocked). Eels didn't eat, all the snails stayed at the water surface (or crawled out), anemones continually "wandered", and there was the issue of lateral line erosion. "Grounding" the tank by placing a 316 stainless steel or a titanium "probe" into the tank and connecting the single wire conductor to earth ground (either through a grounded 3 prong receptacle or to a cold water pipe) "eliminated" the measurable voltage.
I saw several cases where non eating fish began eating, the snails stopped crawling out, and the anemones found a place to their liking. However, there were only a few incidents where the effects of lateral line erosion (Hole in the head disease) seemed to improve. Were these coincidence? I can't say, the probes seemed enough of an improvement in enough instances that I felt it worthwhile. At this time, only Sandpoint marketed a "Grounding probe". I had constructed probes for my testing and the results were favorably accepted, which led to producing and marketing over 1500 (URI was a distributor for a time) sold as "Ground Zero" (not be confused with a later grounding probe by the same name but completely unrelated to me). The actual profit versus time required didn't seem all that practical so I stopped (plus Coralife came out with one and there were a few others available at an inexpensive price).
There was concern that IF something shorted out in the tank the ground probe circuit might cause a fire, however, I made several probes with very low amperage in-line fuses and placed them in aquariums which I then placed a bare heater bi-metalic strip thermostat directly into the water (don't try this at home ). The heater cord got a bit warm and it was fun to watch but I could never generate enough current through the grounding circuit to blow a fuse. Sandpoint experimented with trying to recover the "stray voltages" with no success.
A Grounding Probe is not a remedy for faulty equipment, but it will eliminate the induced voltages (or some say it merely masks it and makes it undetectable with a digital VOM). The induced voltage is very easy to demonstrate, simply take a 5 gallon bucket and fill with water (clean, dirty, fresh, salt... even DI, it has no effect) and wrap an extension cord around the outside of the bucket and plug the cord in. I typically could get 7 - 15 volts depending on number of "windings" and also proximity to the outlet receptacle. Aquariums placed on walls with a circuit panels (even facing the other side) induced fairly large voltages. Lights with the ballasts in the hoods induced more than those with remote ballasts. Power heads typically induced more voltage than heaters. The effects appeared cumulative (the more electrical appliance in/on the tank, the more measurable voltage).
Eels and sharks seemed most effected. Snail behavior (congregating at the surface... unless it happens to be tidal zone species) was typical. Anemone "migration" was common, but could have been other factors, and the connection between lateral line erosion and ungrounded aquariums with induced voltages was never conclusively demonstrated. I think that some fish are more sensitive than others (as in the sharks and eels) and the effects of the voltages could be additional stressors. It is easily corrected, but it is not the "silver bullet" which attracted the early interest.
You can make your own grounding electrode using a short length of stainless steel 316 LM rod or titanium (bicycle spokes work well). Attaching the wire is a challenge and you may need to experiment with solders. The electrical connection must be sealed as this is a great sight for some galvanic reactions. I used a heat shrink which had a heat activated glue on the inside of it. A second piece of heat shrink was placed over the first (slightly longer piece) as a precaution (plus I used a white colored shrink which had the name printed on. The wire was 18 gauge stranded copper wire with a spade lug crimped to the other end and attached (with a metal screw) to the 3 prong ground cover.
Even 316 will corrode, especially if placed in contact with air, so keep it away from bubbles and completely below the surface.
Or simpler yet, go buy one!
Electrical devices generate electro-magnetic fields (EMF), which is fortunate, otherwise generators, transformers, etc would not function as they do. There has been a controversy for years about the effects of living too close to high voltage power lines. Claims of higher cancer rates in infants, dairy cows producing lower amounts of milk, etc., have been claimed, but to my knowledge (although I haven't followed it as closely in recent years) there have be no conclusive studies (can't prove it has an effect... can't prove that it doesn't ...) My local utility company (or at least their legal department
) must think that there could be something to it as yearly they distribute brochures on EMF which amounts to a disclaimer.
Most school children at some point see thee demonstration of iron filings on a piece of glass or paper with a magnet underneath to demonstrate lines of force. Our electrical devices operate mainly on alteranting current (50 or 60 Hertz) so the lines of force are constantly expanding and collapsing (probably not the best words to describe what is taking place). These fields are able to generate a potential (voltage). There are apparently few ways to effectively shield the fields.
[hr]
You can them for about $12 or so.
by: Stanley Brown
Posted to The Breeders Registry emailing list, Wednesday 23rd December 1998.
Years ago (before the BR) I spent time researching induced voltages and the effects of grounding for an article for MFM. I found voltages ranging from millivolts to > 100 VAC! In many of the tanks tested with higher voltages an assortment of undesirable behaviors of the inhabitants was reported (not to mention some of the employees getting shocked). Eels didn't eat, all the snails stayed at the water surface (or crawled out), anemones continually "wandered", and there was the issue of lateral line erosion. "Grounding" the tank by placing a 316 stainless steel or a titanium "probe" into the tank and connecting the single wire conductor to earth ground (either through a grounded 3 prong receptacle or to a cold water pipe) "eliminated" the measurable voltage.
I saw several cases where non eating fish began eating, the snails stopped crawling out, and the anemones found a place to their liking. However, there were only a few incidents where the effects of lateral line erosion (Hole in the head disease) seemed to improve. Were these coincidence? I can't say, the probes seemed enough of an improvement in enough instances that I felt it worthwhile. At this time, only Sandpoint marketed a "Grounding probe". I had constructed probes for my testing and the results were favorably accepted, which led to producing and marketing over 1500 (URI was a distributor for a time) sold as "Ground Zero" (not be confused with a later grounding probe by the same name but completely unrelated to me). The actual profit versus time required didn't seem all that practical so I stopped (plus Coralife came out with one and there were a few others available at an inexpensive price).
There was concern that IF something shorted out in the tank the ground probe circuit might cause a fire, however, I made several probes with very low amperage in-line fuses and placed them in aquariums which I then placed a bare heater bi-metalic strip thermostat directly into the water (don't try this at home ). The heater cord got a bit warm and it was fun to watch but I could never generate enough current through the grounding circuit to blow a fuse. Sandpoint experimented with trying to recover the "stray voltages" with no success.
A Grounding Probe is not a remedy for faulty equipment, but it will eliminate the induced voltages (or some say it merely masks it and makes it undetectable with a digital VOM). The induced voltage is very easy to demonstrate, simply take a 5 gallon bucket and fill with water (clean, dirty, fresh, salt... even DI, it has no effect) and wrap an extension cord around the outside of the bucket and plug the cord in. I typically could get 7 - 15 volts depending on number of "windings" and also proximity to the outlet receptacle. Aquariums placed on walls with a circuit panels (even facing the other side) induced fairly large voltages. Lights with the ballasts in the hoods induced more than those with remote ballasts. Power heads typically induced more voltage than heaters. The effects appeared cumulative (the more electrical appliance in/on the tank, the more measurable voltage).
Eels and sharks seemed most effected. Snail behavior (congregating at the surface... unless it happens to be tidal zone species) was typical. Anemone "migration" was common, but could have been other factors, and the connection between lateral line erosion and ungrounded aquariums with induced voltages was never conclusively demonstrated. I think that some fish are more sensitive than others (as in the sharks and eels) and the effects of the voltages could be additional stressors. It is easily corrected, but it is not the "silver bullet" which attracted the early interest.
You can make your own grounding electrode using a short length of stainless steel 316 LM rod or titanium (bicycle spokes work well). Attaching the wire is a challenge and you may need to experiment with solders. The electrical connection must be sealed as this is a great sight for some galvanic reactions. I used a heat shrink which had a heat activated glue on the inside of it. A second piece of heat shrink was placed over the first (slightly longer piece) as a precaution (plus I used a white colored shrink which had the name printed on. The wire was 18 gauge stranded copper wire with a spade lug crimped to the other end and attached (with a metal screw) to the 3 prong ground cover.
Even 316 will corrode, especially if placed in contact with air, so keep it away from bubbles and completely below the surface.
Or simpler yet, go buy one!
Electrical devices generate electro-magnetic fields (EMF), which is fortunate, otherwise generators, transformers, etc would not function as they do. There has been a controversy for years about the effects of living too close to high voltage power lines. Claims of higher cancer rates in infants, dairy cows producing lower amounts of milk, etc., have been claimed, but to my knowledge (although I haven't followed it as closely in recent years) there have be no conclusive studies (can't prove it has an effect... can't prove that it doesn't ...) My local utility company (or at least their legal department
) must think that there could be something to it as yearly they distribute brochures on EMF which amounts to a disclaimer.Most school children at some point see thee demonstration of iron filings on a piece of glass or paper with a magnet underneath to demonstrate lines of force. Our electrical devices operate mainly on alteranting current (50 or 60 Hertz) so the lines of force are constantly expanding and collapsing (probably not the best words to describe what is taking place). These fields are able to generate a potential (voltage). There are apparently few ways to effectively shield the fields.
[hr]
You can them for about $12 or so.
flamingkingofhe
Active Member
thanks beth