Quarantine Tanks

yannifish

Active Member
I have a few questions concerning quarantine tanks.
I've always used a quarantine tank, but have never had much success getting a fish through the quarantine process.
So, the first step I'm considering taking to improve success is using a larger quarantine tank. I've always used a 10 gallon, but am considering getting a 20 gallon, especially since my clownfish are living in my qt right now (my dt isn't currently set up). Will the larger tank help?
Also, what is the best way to establish bio-filtration in a qt? Obviously you can keep some filter media in your sump, but that hasn't really worked for me. Since my clownfish are living in my qt right now I have an established bacteria population, but I don't want to leave the tank set up between uses. I was looking at a couple products, both made by API, called Quick Start and Ammo-Lock. Do these products work? Ammo-Lock neutralizes ammonia, and Quick Start jump starts the cycling process. Would these products used together (Quick Start to provide bacteria to start the cycle and Ammo-Lock to control ammonia levels initially) work to maintain water quality in a newly established qt?
As far as preventing disease transfer to the dt goes, I've always gone with observe the fish to see if a disease or parasite shows up, and if it does treat it. This method hasn't worked very well for me. Firstly, by the time a disease or parasite shows itself the fish is stressed enough that the added stress of treatment seems reduces chances of survival. Also, it is my understanding that if a fish is healthy enough a parasite, such as ick, can be fought off without any visible indications of the parasite's presence. As a result, the parasite could still be transferred to the dt despite the qt process. So, I want to go to a method where every fish quarantined immediately undergoes a treatment. In the past I haven't had good luck with hyposalinity, losing a flame angelfish. However, after doing more research I found out that often flame angels don't do well with hypo, so I'm not against trying hypo again. However, I also want to consider other options. I know copper treatments exist, but know nothing about their effectiveness or ease of use. So, I need some suggestions about a treatment for quarantined fish.
So, please give your input and quarantining experience and methods. I would greatly appreciate it. :)
 

kiefers

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/392492/quarantine-tanks#post_3485319
I have a few questions concerning quarantine tanks.
I've always used a quarantine tank, but have never had much success getting a fish through the quarantine process.
So, the first step I'm considering taking to improve success is using a larger quarantine tank. I've always used a 10 gallon, but am considering getting a 20 gallon, especially since my clownfish are living in my qt right now (my dt isn't currently set up). Will the larger tank help?
Also, what is the best way to establish bio-filtration in a qt? Obviously you can keep some filter media in your sump, but that hasn't really worked for me. Since my clownfish are living in my qt right now I have an established bacteria population, but I don't want to leave the tank set up between uses. I was looking at a couple products, both made by API, called Quick Start and Ammo-Lock. Do these products work? Ammo-Lock neutralizes ammonia, and Quick Start jump starts the cycling process. Would these products used together (Quick Start to provide bacteria to start the cycle and Ammo-Lock to control ammonia levels initially) work to maintain water quality in a newly established qt?
As far as preventing disease transfer to the dt goes, I've always gone with observe the fish to see if a disease or parasite shows up, and if it does treat it. This method hasn't worked very well for me. Firstly, by the time a disease or parasite shows itself the fish is stressed enough that the added stress of treatment seems reduces chances of survival. Also, it is my understanding that if a fish is healthy enough a parasite, such as ick, can be fought off without any visible indications of the parasite's presence. As a result, the parasite could still be transferred to the dt despite the qt process. So, I want to go to a method where every fish quarantined immediately undergoes a treatment. In the past I haven't had good luck with hyposalinity, losing a flame angelfish. However, after doing more research I found out that often flame angels don't do well with hypo, so I'm not against trying hypo again. However, I also want to consider other options. I know copper treatments exist, but know nothing about their effectiveness or ease of use. So, I need some suggestions about a treatment for quarantined fish.
So, please give your input and quarantining experience and methods. I would greatly appreciate it. :)
Sounds like your on the right track. Personally, I cycled mine. I used the filter media from my DT and still added a raw shrimp. The QT cycled completely in 4 weeks.
I have a 35 gallon which is currently making live rock and storing LR I took out of my DT. When I get a new fish I will more or less leave the LR in there until I notice a problem.
 
S

saxman

Guest
If you're going to treat the fish prophylactically, your biofiltraion will go to "hell in a hand basket" anyhow, so don't worry about cycling the QT. That being said, we've had the best results using Super-Bac to set up "quickie" QT's.
As for ammonia blockers, use one that's buffered, such as Am-Quel Plus or Ultimate. They will tend to crash your pH less.
It really depends on what you're going to treat for as to what you use. If you're concerned about ******, I'd use quinine sulfate, as we've had the most success with that med for resistant strains.
If you're treating for ectoparasites, use praziquantel and/or metronidazole.
For endoparasites use metronidazole and/or fendendazole.
Most meds are based on dosages per 10 gals of water, so a 10 gal tank is fine. However, if you do go with a 20 gal, remember to bump up the dosages of any meds you use.
Here's an article that covers the various QT setups:
http://www.lionfishlair.com/qt/qt.shtml
HTH
 

yannifish

Active Member
I'm not necessarily trying to target any specific parasite, but just want to develop a method to get fish through quarantine safely and parasite free. I guess my main concerns would be Cryptocaryon irritans and Amyloodinium ocellatum.
After doing additional research, I've read that doing a freshwater dip prior to introducing a fish to a sterile qt can kill many of the parasites already on the fish, and since the qt is clean the parasite is gone. I'll probably employ this method with every fish I quarantine, and then observe for any other signs of difficulties.
I do have a bottle of medication that contains formalin and malachite green. Is this of any use, and for what parasites (other than Cryptocaryon irritans
).
I'll definitely go with a larger tank too. I also am thinking about getting a dedicated ATO to make hypo easier.
 

kiefers

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/392492/quarantine-tanks#post_3485336
I'm not necessarily trying to target any specific parasite, but just want to develop a method to get fish through quarantine safely and parasite free. I guess my main concerns would be Cryptocaryon irritans and Amyloodinium ocellatum.
After doing additional research, I've read that doing a freshwater dip prior to introducing a fish to a sterile qt can kill many of the parasites already on the fish, and since the qt is clean the parasite is gone. I'll probably employ this method with every fish I quarantine, and then observe for any other signs of difficulties.
I do have a bottle of medication that contains formalin and malachite green. Is this of any use, and for what parasites (other than Cryptocaryon irritans
).
I'll definitely go with a larger tank too. I also am thinking about getting a dedicated ATO to make hypo easier.
I do agree with what Sax is saying. I have used the Mardel in the past and it worked wonders. I used it on all my new critters while in QT whether they had issues or not and all did great through the treatment. Even the angel was unaffected and the baby trigger acted as if nothing was going on. So I'm a firm beleiver. JMO
 

yannifish

Active Member
Will Mardel kill Marine Velvet? The link you gave says it works for protozoan diseases, which I'm assuming means Marine Velvet even though Amyloodinium ocellatum is a dinoflagellate, not a protozoan.
So would treating every fish I quarantine with Mardel be a good means of preventing any disease from entering the dt?
 

kiefers

Active Member
in my opinion yes. I have done it with geat insult from posters but I QT'd every fish with it that is currently in my DT and my wifes 125.
 

yannifish

Active Member
Okay. I'll look into purchasing that then. I'll treat every fish with it, and that way I can be quite certain disease wont end up in my tank (at least on a fish).
 

kiefers

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/392492/quarantine-tanks#post_3485542
Okay. I'll look into purchasing that then. I'll treat every fish with it, and that way I can be quite certain disease wont end up in my tank (at least on a fish).
Keep in mind that you still have to watch the pH and keep up with water changes.
I keep a jar of baked baking soda water (1 tblspn of baked baking soda and RO water) on hand.
 

yannifish

Active Member
I have some actual reef buffer too, I'm good with keeping the pH up.
Now all I have to do is get my new tank, build a stand for it, plumb it, get it set up, and move my clowns over. Then I can actually move on to getting new fish. :)
 

kiefers

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by yannifish http:///t/392492/quarantine-tanks#post_3485644
I have some actual reef buffer too, I'm good with keeping the pH up.
Now all I have to do is get my new tank, build a stand for it, plumb it, get it set up, and move my clowns over. Then I can actually move on to getting new fish. :)
sounds to me like a game plan!
Will be on the look out for the thread.
 
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