quick question

[inkmates]

i know that seahorses change color due to a number of factors but is there a general rule as far as stress/illness such as if they are stressed there color fades/brightens just trying to cram a little more before I get them tomorrow and want to be able to tell if something is going wrong as soon as possiable just in case

 

[rykna]

Originally Posted by inkmates
http:///forum/post/2488840
i know that seahorses change color due to a number of factors but is there a general rule as far as stress/illness such as if they are stressed there color fades/brightens just trying to cram a little more before I get them tomorrow and want to be able to tell if something is going wrong as soon as possiable just in case
When you see your horse turning a paler, toward a white cream color- it means lack of oxygen. Do you have a QT set up?
How long has your DT been cycled?

 

[poniegirl]

Be sure to take your time acclimating..3 hours plus would be kind. Use aeration and temp control, if necessary. Avoid taking them out of the water if you can, just to be safe. If you can transfer from acclimation tank to DT in a small container, it will be less stressful.
Stress changes are more of a "paling" or "fading". They may look splotchy rather than a bold coloring.
Try not to worry too much. Like any fish, they will probably stress somewhat. As long as they appear to breathe easily and have safe spots to be allowed to get used to the new home, there is no reason to expect the worst.

 

[poniegirl]

Stress changes may appear as more of a "fading" or "paling". A happy horse is generally bolder colored.
Try not to worry too much. Be sure to allow the recommended acclimation (aerate and temp control, also, while acclimating). Try to transfer the SH to their new home without removing them from the water; it will be less stressful. If they have plenty of safe places to hitch to just get used to things, there is no reason to expect anything but good results.
They may exhibit some stress, but no more of less than another fish.

 

[larrynews]

all of mine that i have purchased were black and the ya ll turned yellow or reddish...very nice

 

[suzy]

My change color to communicate to each other! Maybe...
or if the moon is full...
or if John Stewart is hosting the Oscars....
Really, I think they use colors for attracting mates, or hiding. I think they lose the ability to change color when they are sick.
I do not acclimate to new water for longer than 20 minutes or so. I feel the stress of being in a hypoxic (low O2), hypercapnic (high co2) environment full of their own waste is much worse than getting a lot of good oxygenated water fast. I put the bag in my sump, add a line directly from the main display to the bag and open it wide. if I have a fish that needs a bit of TLC, I will let him live in my sump for a while, 'till he's eating and strong before adding him to the community tank where his tank mates get all the food quickly. But, my seahorses are polite to each other, so I put them in there right off.

 

[poniegirl]

Suzy, I have to disagree with this. If you use aeration and temp control while acclimating, the benefit out-weighs any issues, I think.
The probability of the water qualities being vastly different is too great.
Are your seahorses home, Inkmates?

 

[ci11337]

I read your not supposed to use aeration while acclimating, can't remember why though, and dosen't heating the acclimation water defeat the purpose? I personally compromise and acclimate for 1-1.5 hrs. Based on how delicate the creature is

 

[suzy]

Originally Posted by PonieGirl
http:///forum/post/2493384
Suzy, I have to disagree with this. If you use aeration and temp control while acclimating, the benefit out-weighs any issues, I think.
The probability of the water qualities being vastly different is too great.
Are your seahorses home, Inkmates?
I must admit, I am very nervous about ammonia toxicity. I am so afraid that my fish will get a chronic respiratory issue causing long term stress more than any other issue. If my fish has good liver and kidney function, is there another electrolyte that will cause an issue I haven't considered? I do realize I am more focused on respiratory issues and the chronic failure that ammonia toxicity causes to effectively evaluate other issues...

 

[poniegirl]

Originally Posted by Suzy
http:///forum/post/2494017
I must admit, I am very nervous about ammonia toxicity. I am so afraid that my fish will get a chronic respiratory issue causing long term stress more than any other issue. If my fish has good liver and kidney function, is there another electrolyte that will cause an issue I haven't considered? I do realize I am more focused on respiratory issues and the chronic failure that ammonia toxicity causes to effectively evaluate other issues...
I don't know that I would recognize poor liver or kidney function in a fish and, while I would not presume the same for anyone else, I think a minimum recommended acclimating time should not be avoided.
I do know that most of us probably purchase quite a bit from LFS and I would say that acclimating and quarantine should be A-list procedure. Both for the new fish and one's exsisting stock.
Just MO

 

[suzy]

Well, I guess we can't draw blood on our wee ones to evaluate their vital functions....Maybe one day?
But, I love the science of Ichthyology! I have the coolest PM relationship with one of the curators of a large public aquarium (I love you, Jim Hemdal and everyone should buy your book/shameless plug for Advanced Marine Aquarium Techniques!). Really, Jim does surgery on his fish, he puts them under sedation and uses little tiny ventilators (a syringe) to help them breath during surgery!
So, I really have put some thought into the vital organs of our captive pets, and every parameter I can test for. I do understand there are differences in the water the fish is transported in and the water that he is being transferred into. The major electrolytes (Calcium, potassium, magnesium, ect) are controlled by the fishes internal mechanisms and are a non issue to me. A fish that is breathing and has circulating blood will be able to control these parameters. But, elevated ammonia in the transport bag will cause chronic lung dysfunction. I am not sure that gill tissue ever heals from a significant burn.
Granted, hopefully the fish has only been in a bag for a short time and the water isn't too toxic. But, I see no valid reason reason to leave the little thing in a tiny bag for more than 20 minutes when he could be in a lovely tank, checking out his new digs and finding a way to calm down after a freaky stressful experience looking at a terrestrial world in a plastic bag!
Everytime I bring a bag home from the LFS, I think how bizarre it must be for the fish. When we take the bag out of the sack and he is in our front room looking at Lou Dobbs on CNN, the huge eyes on the dog looking at him, even my huge hands that are bigger than his whole body! That must be way more shocking than any change in water quality (for the better, IMO)
I do know that there are many places where we can read that longer is better, but I have yet to find one that says why? If we were going from a good environment to a more stressful one, it would make sense. But, we are moving from a potentially toxic one that we have worked hard to make healthy. So, why would we go that slow? Over an hour and a half?