What is consider a good R/O system? I've considered the Typhoon or Typhoon III. What about the ---- brands? The Typoon seems to br resonably priced or are there better deals for better equipment out there?
Typhoon III are really nice units... Personally I would opt for the Typhoon over the ---- models... Really good customer service and a quality product... Not taking anything away from the others... I just ordered my Typhoon III last week...
Originally posted by shoogieboo
oooops i just have the ro coming i'm sure it will be fine
If not, it's pretty easy to add a DI canister after the RO output, and it shouldn't cost any more than $50 to do.
The deionization canister will strip the water of any remaining negative and positvely charged ions. This will be accomplished via a mixed bed...or the two seperate resins in seperate containers. The purpose of the DI cartidge is to render the water as free of any ions (most up to about 99.99%) as possible...the aquarist then adds in only the sustances they want.
Someone above mentioned no DI due to locale or something...You must have some pretty pure water to not need one where you are...and I dont foresee that being the case anywhere in our country. A public water system is too large to monitor every gallon produced...
A DI catridge will only be beneficial to a system.
i understand and agree, unfortunalty i have just the 5 stage ro coming. the lfs only uses ro they said i didn't need the di i'm on a well system not public perhaps that made a difference...who knows.. thanks for your advice though:happy:
If you are on a well...I would think you would need a DI canister. You have no idea what elements are introduced into your ground water. Copper being one of them.
As for the 100gpd membrane...I have never heard of such a thing concerning that. Volume will not determine the quality of the water produced...the rejection rate, quality and type of membrane will.
In anycase...if you decide to add a DI on later...it isnt that expensive nor difficult.
ok now you all are freaking me out i paid 172 for this thing its ro 100gpd and it has a drinking system.....at what point will i know if its not good enough water...i plan on starting out with 100lbs of live rock
Get a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter...and check the output water for Nitrates and so on...
I do not know where the person above got the information about the 100gpd not being good for aquaria...I do not see where there would be a factor in the GPD of a membrane...there are some membranes out there that would have a hard time removing rocks...but as with everything else...you get what you pay for...
The DI canistor is usually just an add on canister. You can usually get the canister itself for about $15.00 and the resins from where ever for about $20.00. Some places will even give you a quantity discount for the resins by the case (which is what I do).
Your RO unit should be fine...a higher rejection rate as identified by the membrane maker is the key to go by.
RO/DI units with 100GPD membranes that are readily available to hobbiests only reject 90% of the dissolved solids that pass through the membrane, which puts more pressure on the DI beads and wears them out quicker. Whereas the 75GPD and slower membranes reject 98% of TDS, putting less pressure on the DI beads.
Originally posted by shoogieboo
I orderd a Baracudda from aquafx my lfs said that because of our climate in La. we don't necc need the di just the ro anyone ever heard this before?
I would probably disagree with your LFS and your best bet would be to monitor the water before and after it leaves the RO unit to see if their information is correct or not