Resealing a Tank
- Thread starter deezum
- Start date
ovrmyhdagn
Member
I understand that you can use the 100% silicone as long as it does not have the "bioseal" label or any sort of mildicide ingredient. The newest shipments of silicone from GE (this past week or so) have the bioseal in all their new shipments. So if you are going to reseal the tank, yo uneed to get it right away. I just bought GE II silicone and half had the bioseal and half didn't, so I had to go back and search for the other ones. GE I can be used as well as but has a lower rating for adhering to plastic (overflows?).
Someone else should chime in I hope.
Someone else should chime in I hope.
chipmaker
Active Member
I have used any and all silicones and have yet to have a problem with any of them even those with mildewcide in them. However I would try and use the 100% stuff made for windows and doors over the bathroom kitchen stuff just to be safe.
If yur looking to reseal a leaking tank, its important that "ALL" internal silicone be removed from"ALL" seams, joints corners etc. Silicone does mnot stick to silicone and in short order it is going to peel off and let you with strips of silicone all over and a leak once again. Use a new single edged razor blade to scrape and clean all coner fillets off sides and bottom panels........then go over allthese areas once again with another fresh new blade......I also go over these areas with a piece of scotchbrite pad saturated in acetone. It helps loosen up old silicone and also removes any dirt etc. I then hit those areas with a new blade and dry scotchbrite again, wipe with a paper towel and apply strips of masking tape to make nice straight lines and help make a neat job when I apply the silicone. Allow it all to setup about 15 to 30 minutes and pull off tape leaving nice straight lines. ANy smears are pulled up with the tape or are far enough away from the actual sealthey can bve scraped off without fear of cutting into the new seals. Pull tape off at a very hard shallow angle to prevent it from pulling off any more material than just what touches the tapes edges.
If yur looking to reseal a leaking tank, its important that "ALL" internal silicone be removed from"ALL" seams, joints corners etc. Silicone does mnot stick to silicone and in short order it is going to peel off and let you with strips of silicone all over and a leak once again. Use a new single edged razor blade to scrape and clean all coner fillets off sides and bottom panels........then go over allthese areas once again with another fresh new blade......I also go over these areas with a piece of scotchbrite pad saturated in acetone. It helps loosen up old silicone and also removes any dirt etc. I then hit those areas with a new blade and dry scotchbrite again, wipe with a paper towel and apply strips of masking tape to make nice straight lines and help make a neat job when I apply the silicone. Allow it all to setup about 15 to 30 minutes and pull off tape leaving nice straight lines. ANy smears are pulled up with the tape or are far enough away from the actual sealthey can bve scraped off without fear of cutting into the new seals. Pull tape off at a very hard shallow angle to prevent it from pulling off any more material than just what touches the tapes edges.