reusing bioballs in new tank?

[cgrant]

Hi, I was wondering if it is ok to reuse the same bioballs that were in my 55 gal in my 210.
A while back on my 55 I added extra bioballs into the trickle filter and was wondering if i could just transplant them into the new trickle filter for my 210.
I kinda had way overkill for the amount of bioballs that i had in my trickle filter for the 55.
Turns out it was more like the amount that should have been used on a 210.
Just wondering if I will have any issues transplanting the bioballs, My new tank would be cycled at that point wouldnt it since the bioballs actually do all the bio-filtration?
What do you guy's think about this?
55 had 600gph pump w/my old trickle filter loaded up w/bioballs
210 has new all glass #4 trickle filter w/ 2400gph pump

 

[saltfan]

Looks good, you can throw them in there. Your tank is still going to cycle some, remember, your going from a 55 (small Bio-Load) to a much larger 210 (large Bio-Load).

 

[saltn00b]

there will still be a cycle but it will be much quicker because you are providing your new system with a lot of good coralline algae / bacteria

 

[cgrant]

Hmm...So in my 55 I have a hippo tang, yellow tang, porc puffer, bursa trigger, and a coral beauty, If I take the bio-balls out of the 55 and put them in the 210 what should I do with the fish, Obviously i have to move them to the new tank if I remove the bioballs from the old tank, but if it re-cycles that wouldnt be good for the fish?
Maybe I should just let the new tank go through the new cycle?

 

[saltfan]

No you don't have to move the fish just because you are taking the bio balls out. let the tank cycle, take some of your LR from the old tank and put that in there also, if its possible put some LS in there as well, anything you can to help the bio-load go up, and help the tank. Your fish will be fine in the tank without the bio-balls. Might I suggest 10% water changes weekly in the old tank, until the new one is ready.

 

[saltn00b]

im not sure that cgrant has LR?
i basically did what saltfan is suggesting when i transferred my 75g into my 150. i transferred all of the bio balls, about half of the LS, and then over 2 week period slowly pulled out the LR as well.
i also filled the tank with about 40% of the aged water from the 75. i was pretty much cycled after 1 week. although i must point out that thinigs still take time to settle as i am currently having some slight nitrate problems. just things to keep in mind

 

[washowi]

why you using bio-balls? Do you not have live rock? IF you have rock. throw the balls in th etrash. Nitrate factories is all they are. Rock is all you need. Period.
Todd

 

[saltn00b]

how do you figure they are nitrate factories?
i know you can also take LS in stockings and fill up the sump space with that as well

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
how do you figure they are nitrate factories?
i know you can also take LS in stockings and fill up the sump space with that as well
What do you think all the surface area on those balls are for? Bacteria to grow. Have you been in the hobby long? What I mean is how are your water leverl? Water changes? What is your nitrate level? Do you have live rock?
Balls do nothing but cause problems in a reef tank..ask anyone who is in the hobby a long time. Rock is all you need and maybe some filter floss in the return if you want. All I use is macro algea in my sump, butt loads of rock in my tank. run carbon 24/7 but change it weekly. 20% water changes maybe every 3 weeks or so. Been running 3 marine tanks for 2 years now.
Who is telling you to use bio-balls?
Todd

 

[promisetbg]

Originally Posted by washowi
why you using bio-balls? Do you not have live rock? IF you have rock. throw the balls in th etrash. Nitrate factories is all they are. Rock is all you need. Period.
Todd
Agreed.

 

[cgrant]

well i am fairly new to the hobby and have read that the two main things you need are a biological filter (like a trickle) aga #4 and a protein skimmer coralife ss 220.
My tank will only be fowlr, but dont have any live rock yet, new tank is a 210 and we all know that wasnt cheap so live rock will have to wait till next month.
I really dont have the time for a reef tank yet, probably will look into that more during next winter when I have more time.
No major water issues in the old tank, Just setup the new tank this past weekend so no water issues yet, but I know it needs to go through a tank cycle so everything will get out of wak on the new tank until its done w/cycle

 

[saltn00b]

ok, then do you pile the rock up and let the water trickle down it? or have the rock submerged as much as possible? do you keep lights on the rock in the sump or no?

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
ok, then do you pile the rock up and let the water trickle down it? or have the rock submerged as much as possible? do you keep lights on the rock in the sump or no?
I am confused here? water trickle down the rock? No man the rock is submerged in the tank. The surface area of the live rock (the nooks and crannies) is where the chemical reactions take place and change Nitrite to Nitrate (I hope I did not get them backward)
What I am saying is the Live Rock is the Filter.
Now for fish only...I can't answer. I am a coral reef marine fish guy. Maybe someone else will chime in with help there. I don't have knowlege, but I will say that the rock in a fish only will work in the same principle.
Todd

 

[saltn00b]

so then the water level in the sump is going to be very high in order to keep all of the rock submerged

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
so then the water level in the sump is going to be very high in order to keep all of the rock submerged

The rock is in the Tank..and in the sump. What is in your tank?Do you have any live rock at all?

 

[irondog]

Hey washowi,i justed did that last week,was running a wetdry with bio balls,46g bow fowlr an some corals,took out all bio balls adding a sock of bio chem zorb an a sock of power phos,was wondering how much do you rinse the socks after you add the bio chem zorb an power phos,i rinsed really good kepted squeezing sock until the water i was rinsing them with was allmost clear,hope i'm doing this right

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by irondog
Hey washowi,i justed did that last week,was running a wetdry with bio balls,46g bow fowlr an some corals,took out all bio balls adding a sock of bio chem zorb an a sock of power phos,was wondering how much do you rinse the socks after you add the bio chem zorb an power phos,i rinsed really good kepted squeezing sock until the water i was rinsing them with was allmost clear,hope i'm doing this right

Why you using that? Seriously, don't unless you have have high Phospates? Live rock, run some carbon, good circulation, and water changes at least monthly.
But your question - I would do it every week.

 

[irondog]

I have a 46 bow 60pds of lr cc bottom (which i'm gonna switch to ls)
my phosphates are like0.5

 

[washowi]

Originally Posted by irondog
I have a 46 bow 60pds of lr cc bottom (which i'm gonna switch to ls)
my phosphates are like0.5

You should have zero phospates but anyway. Live rock is all you need. water changes to reduce the phosphates.....Question - you are using RO/DI water right? Not tap water. It amazes me that people use tap water for their reef tanks. That introduces phospates.
Todd

 

[irondog]

Well i justed started with the coral the same time i switched over to ro water,even use ro to top off,do water changes 10 gallons every 10 days was using instant ocean reef cyrstal but the alk is high like 12.8 after water was in bucket with heater an powerhead for 24hrs,i'm gonna switch to the new salt they got out its by red sea coral pro salt guaratees ph 8.2
calcium 450
alk 2.2-2.5meg/l
also have like 1000gph of powerheads in tank