Revised DIY Sump/Refugium Plan - Critical Analysis Requested

[peanut1181]

I have revised the sump/refugium that I posted here a few days. I got some very good feedback on the last one and was hoping for the same kind of response this time. The same basic theory applies to this design as with the last. The major changes come in the form of some added baffles and a lower water line to accomodate a power outage. There are now two added baffles... the first, in the skimmer chamber, is to serve as a detritus collection point. The second added baffle is located in the return pump chamber. It allows the bubbles from the water cascading out of the refugium to surface and pop before the water is returned back to the main tank. Another noteable change is the use of bio-balls AND live rock in the entry chamber. Previously I had planned on using only live rock. After a little research and some advice from well informed individuals I have decided that only submerged live rock will be beneficial and have decided to go with bio-balls above the water line and live rock below it. I also removed the sponge as it will only hinder the water flow and is a pain to keep clean/replace. Also, I had previously intended to use a sheet of plexiglass as a "roof" over the refugium. This roof has some small holes in it to allow a small amount of water into the refugium as the majority of it bypassed the 'fuge and went straight into the return pump area. That "roof" has now been replaced with three 1" PVC pipes. I have put bulkheads at the desired water level in the plexiglass that separates the skimmer chamber and refugium and installed the pipes there... they angle down and rest on the top of the plexiglass wall at the other end of the refugium. There are holes drilled in the bottom of the PVC to allow a small amount of water into the refugium... same principal as the original idea, only this will be much easier to clean and will allow more light to reach directly into the refugium. My previous design can be seen at a post called "Please critique my DIY sump/refugium diagram" The new design is attatched below. Please share any comments or concerns you have about this design. I am always looking for ways to improve this. Thank you very much for your help, and I apologize for the lengthy post. Sorry.
Gray

 

[mr . salty]

Looks real good too me.But you may still want to consider some type of prefilter so the balls and rock don't get clogged with waste.This would be a problem with nitrates down the road...Weekly cleaning or re[placment of a sponge is alot easier to do than cleaning the balls and rock...

 

[broomer5]

Looks good !
Hey on the 3 sloping pvc pipes that will feed the fuge. If you were to loose fit them into their mounting positions, you could rotate them around as needed.
You could have a lot of holes drilled on one side of the length of piping, and fewer holes as you move around to the other side of each pipe.
By turning the pipes with your hand, you would essentially be able to increase or decrease the amount of water that drops down into the refugium. Give you a little control over the flowrate ( drop rate ) into the fuge.
Just an idea Gray
Good luck and we'll be expecting some pictures !

 

[peanut1181]

SWEET IDEA BROOMER! I really like that... now all I have to do is figure out how to put a water-tight seal on the bulkhead and still leave the pipe loose to be able to rotate it... any ideas? I'm sure I'll figure something out, but I was just wondering if you had actually worked this plan up yet. Thanks man.
Gray

 

[broomer5]

You could have a watertight seal on the upward sloped 3 pipes, using a bulkhead fitting on the fuge wall. Come off each bulkhead with a 45 degree elbow pointing towards the far end of the sump ( low end ).
Then just install a pvc union on a small 1-2" pvc stub coming off each of these 45 degree fittings. You can loosed the unions and turn each pipe as needed. On the other end of each union, glue in each of your 3 drilled pvc pipes that slope down to the low end of the fuge.
You would not need a watertight seal at the low end, just drill holes in the low end fuge wall and stick the pipes through.
Or just rest them on the wall's edge and secure them into place with plastic wire ties or something. You could intall loose fitting 45 elbows on this end of each pipe to direct the water to fall down. Keep them loose though, so as you fiddle with turning the drilled hole pipes, you turn these elbows to point down again.
Water runs downhill, and it will just fall out the end of each pipe into your last baffled chamber. The fuge water will need a hole for sure.