RO unit connected to my plumbing... problem...

[crimzy]

I recently connected my RO unit to my water supply in the basement, instead of manually connecting it to the faucet every time I use it. I have it split off to two float valves, one on my ATO reservoir and one in my new water reservoir.
The problem is that even when the unit is not making water, it appears that the waste water is continuously running. Anybody have this problem? Any suggestions? Can I just put a valve on the waste and shut it off, or will that overflow something?
Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[wattsupdoc]

Put a valve on the line into the ro. Turn it on when needed. It shouldn't constantly make waste water. Usually low water pressure will cause this. Additionally. Making larger volumes of water at a time yields cleaner water than just little burst of water. I cant recall exactly why or how, but that's the general consensus.

 

[crimzy]

Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2920879
Put a valve on the line into the ro. Turn it on when needed. It shouldn't constantly make waste water. Usually low water pressure will cause this. Additionally. Making larger volumes of water at a time yields cleaner water than just little burst of water. I cant recall exactly why or how, but that's the general consensus.
I can do this if necessary. Though it is a bit discouraging as the main benefit of the float valves is that they are pretty much self regulating. With a valve on the line going into the RO, I'll basically have to open and close it everyday as needed. Thanks for the response. I hope this isn't the only option but if it is then I'll deal with it.
Are there any other suggestions?

 

[scsinet]

You can't valve off the RO unit's output like that. The problem is exactly what you've found... it will continue to produce reject water even when the output of the unit is completely closed off. You are missing a part. What I'm betting you have done is simply plumbed a "T" fitting onto the output of the RO unit, and fed that into two regular float valves.
The float valve kits that are designed for RO units have a second part that you are missing. It's a pressure actuated valve. The way it works is when your float valve shuts off the flow from the unit's output, the pressure that builds in the line actuates a secondary valve and shuts off the water flow going into the unit as well.

In the above diagram, I think you've probably got a "T" fitting and two float valves in place of the "pressure tank" and faucet. I think you are missing the "auto shutoff valve". If you get one and plumb it in as shown (just subsituting a "T" fitting and two float valves for that pressure tank and facuet business, you should be all set.

 

[crimzy]

Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/2921154
You can't valve off the RO unit's output like that. The problem is exactly what you've found... it will continue to produce reject water even when the output of the unit is completely closed off. You are missing a part. What I'm betting you have done is simply plumbed a "T" fitting onto the output of the RO unit, and fed that into two regular float valves.
The float valve kits that are designed for RO units have a second part that you are missing. It's a pressure actuated valve. The way it works is when your float valve shuts off the flow from the unit's output, the pressure that builds in the line actuates a secondary valve and shuts off the water flow going into the unit as well.

In the above diagram, I think you've probably got a "T" fitting and two float valves in place of the "pressure tank" and faucet. I think you are missing the "auto shutoff valve". If you get one and plumb it in as shown (just subsituting a "T" fitting and two float valves for that pressure tank and facuet business, you should be all set.
Thanks for the suggestion. I think that I can follow your diagram. I just need to get the auto shutoff valve. Is this something that I can get at Home Depot, or do you think I need to go through a plumbing supply store? Thanks.

 

[wattsupdoc]

No auto shut off valve would be the cause. Where did you get your unit from? Cant you order one from there? I don't think Lowe's carries them. If I remember right, they have to be match (GPD rating) to the RO membrane.

 

[crimzy]

Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2922220
No auto shut off valve would be the cause. Where did you get your unit from? Cant you order one from there? I don't think Lowe's carries them. If I remember right, they have to be match (GPD rating) to the RO membrane.
I've had my RODI unit for a few years now and I bought it used. I have no idea where it came from.
As an aside I did install the valve on the line going into the unit. At least now I can turn off the waste water when I'm not making any. Although I would like to have it automated if possible.

 

[scsinet]

I don't believe that the autoshutoff is rated for a certain production rate. They are usually sold as part of a kit to do exactly what you are trying to do, and those kits that come with them them don't specify that they need to be used with xxx gpd systems, if you know what I mean.
Regardless, I have no idea whether Lowe's and them sell them, I'd expect so because you need them with the drinking water systems as well, which they sell. I do know for sure that air/water/ice has them for like 13 bucks. Search their site for auto shutoff and you'll probably find it.