RODI Help

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lilredwuck

Guest
I bought a 4 stage Kent Marine rodi used from someone. Unsure about a couple things. I ended up dropping it and the third filter broke somehow. It's not the outside part but.. this may help






Ok so I am thinking this would be the sediment filter right? Is this original or did someone use a refillable universal type item. I could glue most of it back together but it wouldn't help. So what is it that I broke? Just buy a new filter? Etc. Please help thanks
 

scsinet

Active Member
The stage you broke is the de-ionizing stage.
It looks like you've got two problems. First, the canister sump is broken, which is easily replaced. I don't know how easy it is to find just the sump of the canister individually, but a complete new canister assembly (which includes the cap and the sump) is about $18 if you hunt around. More than likely, if you order a whole new assembly, the sump can just be screwed onto your unit. If it doesn't, you can swap the pipe fittings over and replace the whole thing, cap and sump.
The other problem is that your DI resin appears to be outside the inner housing. DI resin goes into a plastic holder which then drops into the canister's sump, and the whole thing gets screwed into the cap on the RO unit. Your last pic shows that holder in the center rear, but it looks like your resin is poured loose into another container on the right. You need to put that resin back into it's holder. If the holder assembly is broken, simply order a whole new DI cartridge (shouldn't be more than about $35) and install it with your new canister sump.
Keep us posted on how it goes.
 
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lilredwuck

Guest
ok I am not quite understanding here. In the last picture on the bottom on the left side, isn't that the sump? The part in the middle he said was for carbon, which he had just shoved a mesh bag of carbon in there. Is this what it's all supposed to come in? The thing on the far right is a DI filter you say. What is the plastic housing? Nothing I need as I can replace it all with a plastic filter filled with the resin? I found this page on the net, when first looking. I am going to figure out exactly what I need and get a good price. I do have all the line ran for it though! Oh the thing on the far left in the last picture isn't broke, just the piece on the far right.
http://www.thefilterguys.biz/di_resin.htm is this what I am looking for to fix it or replace it??
Plan on purchasing a TDS Meter to see exactly what condition the membrane is in. Going for a dual inline model. The one that reads before and after the filter. I will try to get some pictures of the lines I ran.
 

scsinet

Active Member
Okay after reviewing the pics a second time, I see what you are talking about.
However, in the last pic, the container in the center... I've only seen that used for DI resin. Carbon generally comes as a dedicated cartridge.
From left to right on a Kent unit...
The leftmost is a sediment prefilter. It looks like little white fibers (when new) or little brown fibers (when old) criscrossing all over the cartridge.
The middle filter is carbon. You should be able to see the carbon granules, and the whole cartridge is wrapped in a plastic mesh that looks like a diamond patterned grid around the whole thing.
The right cartride is DI resin, which has a plastic canister that fits INSIDE the sump of the filter canister. It looks like this is in fact what you broke. It threw me because every DI cartridge I've seen looks more like the one in the center of your last pic.
My suggestion to you is to just buy a whole new set of filters (minus the membrane of course). The DI cartridge you've picked out is fine. A carbon cartridge isn't more than about $15 and a prefilter cartridge is no more than about $8. That way you know you are starting out with brand new filters, and it will clear up any confusion.
Frankly I should have recommended that in the first place. The membrane lasts a LONG time, but those other three cartridges expire so quickly that it's far better when buying a used unit to just replace them to get yourself on "level ground" from the start.
This by the way is what a carbon cartridge usually looks like:
 
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