RODI questions

doriespelling

New Member
Could someone explain to me simply how a RODI works? I've read and read online and am overwhelmed.
Background:
I have a 72 gallon bowfront reef tank that has become overun with green algae. I do run a protein skimmer and a Rena Filstar xP canister filter and have two Hydor Koralia powerheads. I have (can't remember the name of the lighting system), but it's actinic, daylight and moonlights - set on timers, I think running daylight: 4 hrs/day, actinic: 6 hrs/day, and the moonlights: 5 hrs/day.
Silly me - I have been just filling up the tank (evaporated water) with tap water; I live in a community - I filter MY drinking water, but never gave it a thought (until I read up on this) that the water.
I live in a one-story house, no basement, teeny/tiny area for my hot water heater, like it's in a area built JUST for that and that alone. I've read about RO/DI units being used with a garden hose (except in winter, then what?). Are there hookups for the faucet or the garden hose as I do not want to permanently tap into my plumbing? And how does it work? You filter water into a reservoir? Then do a water change or what?
Will my filtered tap water be okay to use or is a RO/DI a must?
Thanks for any advice.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,
As for under the sink or using a hose..... it all depends on how you hook up your unit. I don't know about any hoses but I have one under my sink with a little faucet. The hole was where my sink had a hand washing lotion space. I have a 3g jug under the sink to hold my filtered water...when it is full the unit shuts off until I empty it and then it refills with RO water.
It's all about filtered water. We want the fish tank water as pure as possible so the only chemical in it...are what comes in our salt mixes. City water is treated with chlorine, fluoride and other bacteria inhibiting stuff. We want certain bacteria to grow, so such water not only adds stuff the fish don't need like flouride, or poisons like chlorine, it goes against us on what we are trying to do.
If your filtered water can indeed clear these things from the water, it can be used. My unit has 5 stages...most tap water filters are not that elaborate. Any filter is better than none at all. However problem algae is the usual result of not unfiltered water or filters that are dirty or inadequate.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by doriespelling http:///t/391474/rodi-questions#post_3471864
Could someone explain to me simply how a RODI works? I've read and read online and am overwhelmed.
Background:
I have a 72 gallon bowfront reef tank that has become overun with green algae. I do run a protein skimmer and a Rena Filstar xP canister filter and have two Hydor Koralia powerheads. I have (can't remember the name of the lighting system), but it's actinic, daylight and moonlights - set on timers, I think running daylight: 4 hrs/day, actinic: 6 hrs/day, and the moonlights: 5 hrs/day.
Silly me - I have been just filling up the tank (evaporated water) with tap water; I live in a community - I filter MY drinking water, but never gave it a thought (until I read up on this) that the water.
I live in a one-story house, no basement, teeny/tiny area for my hot water heater, like it's in a area built JUST for that and that alone. I've read about RO/DI units being used with a garden hose (except in winter, then what?). Are there hookups for the faucet or the garden hose as I do not want to permanently tap into my plumbing? And how does it work? You filter water into a reservoir? Then do a water change or what?
Will my filtered tap water be okay to use or is a RO/DI a must?
Thanks for any advice.
I understand what your talking about but have a couple questions and will throw some ideas out at you......Are the water lines coming into your hot water heat copper or PVC.......My other question is do you have any faucets inside the hot water heater area......What about where your washer is located is that a possible area to hook your RO/DI unit up.....
My first suggestion as far as hooking up your RO/DI is very simple. I know you stated you don't want permanently tap into your plumbing, but this is a permanent tap and is used very commonly and if you have to remove it, you don't have to alter the plumbing area. You basically close the valve off and your done, just remove your RO/DI line. They use it to hook ice makers up in homes.....Here's my first suggestion....

Self Piercing Saddle Valve Installation Instructions
[*]
Choose a location as close to the RO unit as possible.
Make sure the water supply is OFF.
[*]
Back up the piercing pin all the way by turning the handle counterclockwise. It should be retracted slightly past the rubber gasket.
[*]
Position the valve over the pipe and turn the loose clamp piece appropriately to fit the shape of your pipe.
[*]
Firmly snug the valve to the pipe by turning the screw/bolt. This should be done by hand to avoid over tightening.
[*]
Slide compression nut on RO tube.
[*]
Slide on compression sleeve. Note that the sleeve is narrower on one end. Narrow end should be away from valve.
[*]
Insert brass insert into tubing end.
Tighten compression nut to valve to attach tubing. Do not over tighten.
Slowly turn valve handle clockwise to pierce pipe. Turn it all the way. This is the "OFF" position.
Back the valve handle out to open.
Turn on water supply and check for leaks.

Self Piercing Saddle Valve Installation Instructions
Choose a location as close to the RO unit as possible.
Make sure the water supply is OFF.
gin-left: 20px; padding-top: 0px; list-style-type: disc; list-style-position: initial; list-style-image: initial; ">
Back up the piercing pin all the way by turning the handle counterclockwise. It should be retracted slightly past the rubber gasket.
[*]
Position the valve over the pipe and turn the loose clamp piece appropriately to fit the shape of your pipe.
[*]
Firmly snug the valve to the pipe by turning the screw/bolt. This should be done by hand to avoid over tightening.
[*]
Slide compression nut on RO tube.
[*]
Slide on compression sleeve. Note that the sleeve is narrower on one end. Narrow end should be away from valve.
Insert brass insert into tubing end.
Tighten compression nut to valve to attach tubing. Do not over tighten.
Slowly turn valve handle clockwise to pierce pipe. Turn it all the way. This is the "OFF" position.
Back the valve handle out to open.

This piece right here would screw directly onto a garden hose outlet or washing machine connection. The only other thing you'd have to purchase would be a "Y" type adapter to turn the 1 faucet into a dual connection which you can get at Lowes or HomeDepot......Usually in the lawn and garden sections by the hoses. The 1/4" line from the RO unit would plug into the back of this connector.......
HTH
 

snakeblitz33

Well-Known Member
HAH, Acrylic, I can't seem to find anywhere on the photo of where I can purchase said items.

OP - Acrylic has it right. Piercing the copper is perhaps the easiest thing to do. Like he said, all you have to do is close it off and remove the RO line and move on to the next location. Perhaps by buying a saddle valve and installing it, you will be helping a fellow reefer out in the future, as well as the landlord not having to install it himself...
 
Top