rubbermaid tub drain....

[brettmc]

I just got my RO/DI system set up. I am wanting to have my fresh water tub setting up higher than my salt tub so that I can just put a drain in the fresh tub to drain into the salt water tub.
When I went to home depot the plumbing guy said that this wasn't very easy to do since the wall is flimsy. So my question is, is there anyone out there that has done this and if so, how?

 

[reefer545]

Support both inside adn outside of the tub along a FLAT side, with plates of very thick plexiglass of the same size or one that is bigger on the INSIDE causing the structure to be rigid, then insert and seal your drain valve. You should also usea sealant between the plates and the tub on both sides so no water gets between. Use a large C clamp or as much pressure as you can (cinder blocks, bricks, anvil) to make sure you have a tight seal while it cures. Thats it. You will not be able to put the drain all the way at the bottom of a vertical side, but you can put it on the bottom or horizontal side if you have a place for it to constantly sit and be able to drain without moving the tub, but it will work well on the side too.
Good luck, and let us know if you come up with better way or some other option. Pics.

 

[reefforbrains]

Just use a heavy dudty tub and you wont have any problems.
Lids help keep the tubs from bulging too.
Long term you are much better off with a more suitable container but for interm a heavy duty tub shouldnt give any grief.

 

[indyws6]

Greetings

I invested in water softener brine tanks for this purpose (one to hold RO/DI water and one to hold saltwater). They are quite a bit more expensive than Rubbermaid containers, but I was interested in a more permanent and better-looking solution that I could then use as the basis for a remote automatic top-off and water change system (tanks are in the garage / system design is in the works). The tanks I bought are approximately 18 1/2" in diameter and 40" high and are made from black plastic, so they block light and help eliminate the problems that more "transparent" containers would cause for longer term water storage.
Another plus is that they come with float valves and overflow fittings and are plumbed for 1/4" polyethylene tubing. This makes it a relatively simple process to connect the tank to your RO and/or top-off systems. I cut a hole towards the bottom of one of the tanks and installed a DIY spigot (for bucket filling) that I made using PVC plumbing and electrical parts. My first attempt developed a leak after a few uses, primarily due to the poor seal between the thin rubber gaskets I chose and the curved tank wall. I have since found some thick rubber washers with an inside diameter that fits the spigot parts perfectly (the standard rubber washer for a bathroom sink tailpiece). That, along with silicone, fixed the problem.
Here are some pictures of the tank and the DIY spigot effort in case anyone is interested. I'm sure there are more elaborate tank systems in use, but this approach seems to work well for me. I hope this helps - I'm not too smart about corals yet, but I can find my way around plumbing, electrical and mechanical issues

Photo #1 - View of the float valve and 1/4" input line
Photo #2 - Parts used to make DIY spigot (shows old rubber washers...)
Photo #3 - Assembled DIY spigot ready for installation on tank
Photo #4 - Spigot installed (high enough for bucket to sit underneath)
Photo #5 - Tank connected to RO system (Note: this was before the addition of the second tank - no auto top-off or water change efforts have been started yet...)