sand question

dee33

New Member
hi guys i noticed that the sand in the tank is turning the same colour as the LR , colours green red and kinda pinky colour . should i clean it or let it develope , i know some SW aquarists go bare bottom so any info would be great !
 

flower

Well-Known Member

Phosphates, overfeeding and low water flow create an environment for cyanobacteria (pinky stuff) to grow.
So I have a few questions:
  • What does you water tests tell you?
  • Are you using tap water or RO?
    How long has the tank been up and running?
    Besides live rock and sand, what else is in the tank?
 

dee33

New Member
hi there thanks for the reply , i tested for ammonia nitrites and nitrates which are fine . the tank is running for 6 months . i use RO water , the tank is 450lts with 4 green chromis 3 pepperment shrimp 2 condi invertibrites 1 toadstool
i also have 2 powerheads and the temp is at 26 . the salinity is at 1.022 i also noticed that i have to clean the glass every couple of days aswell !
 

flower

Well-Known Member

You need to lower phosphates, a test will say all is well, but that is because the cyano and other algae’s are feeding on it. I use a product called phosphate X to remove phosphates initially, then do water changes regularly and rinse your frozen foods before feeding. Purigen or chemipure will also help to keep it under control after you remove it with the phosphate X or similar brand.
What do you have for a CUC?
 

mrdc

Active Member
I’m a little confused with what y’all are saying about the colors in the sand. I have maybe a 4-5” sand bed. The first inch or two is pristine white but after that there are various colors like pink, green, … Are you saying this is bad to have?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by mrdc
http:///forum/post/3279060
I’m a little confused with what y’all are saying about the colors in the sand. I have maybe a 4-5” sand bed. The first inch or two is pristine white but after that there are various colors like pink, green, … Are you saying this is bad to have?

The purple pinky stuff ON the sand, not IN the sand...You are fine. that is normal. Down deep is stuff breaking down, which is what you are after in a deep sand bed.
 

mrdc

Active Member
That is what I have. Not sure if that is what he has. If it is on top of the sand, I agree with what you have already said.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by mrdc
http:///forum/post/3279071
That is what I have. Not sure if that is what he has. If it is on top of the sand, I agree with what you have already said.

LOL...I edited my post when I realized you were not the OP...
 

dee33

New Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3279038

You need to lower phosphates, a test will say all is well, but that is because the cyano and other algae’s are feeding on it. I use a product called phosphate X to remove phosphates initially, then do water changes regularly and rinse your frozen foods before feeding. Purigen or chemipure will also help to keep it under control after you remove it with the phosphate X or similar brand.
What do you have for a CUC?
I ONLY HAVE 3 PEPPERMENT SHRIMP BUT I HAVE TO GET SOME HERMIT CRABS AND TURBO SNAILS !
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by dee33
http:///forum/post/3279197
I ONLY HAVE 3 PEPPERMENT SHRIMP BUT I HAVE TO GET SOME HERMIT CRABS AND TURBO SNAILS !

Look to the left of this page under reef packages to see what a CUC for your size tank is recommended. Go from there. However nothing eats cyano bacteria, you have to clean up your tank and get rid of phosphates to be rid of that.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
IMHO after a few months it is possible for nitrates to be fully consumed by algaes and anaerobic bacteria with some "phosphates" left over. Cyano has the ability to get its nitrogen from the nitrogen gas in the tank not the nitrates. Therefore at areas with carbon dioxide (like rock and sand surfaces) cyano can bloom.
If you kill the lights for up to a week the cyano will die off and return nitrates for the algaes. then resume with less duration lighting and find a point where the algaes and corals grow but no the cyano. Some even run a monthly 3 day blackout as normal operation.
Of course if it's not cyano then none of that applies. But the 6 months time and 0 nitrates seems to fit.
my .02
 
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